Passat (B5) :: 2005 GLX - Both Catalytic Converters Went Out At Same Time
Apr 25, 2008
'05 GLX, 55k miles. Got an MIL light last week and it showed a P0421 code. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the right bank catalytic converter. That was last Friday. Fast forward to Weds. of this week. MIL comes back on and mileage drops noticeably, but power doesn't seem affected. Back to dealer, they end up replacing the other cat. Does this seem normal? I'm trying to figure out what may have led to this. Car is basically stock. I do my own oil changes (never overfill) and swapped out the spark plugs at 45k miles with Bosch Iridiums. [IMG] [URL] .....
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I recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
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The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
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Getting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
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The catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
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I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
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My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
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My Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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About two months ago I bought a used 2005 Elantra from a reputable dealership. I had my mechanic friend check it out before I bought it and everything seemed fine. This week the check engine light came on. I took it to a shop, they diagnosed the issue and said I needed a new catalytic converter .....
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I just took my 2005 Camry to get smogged and it failed. The reading said that my evaporator and my catalytic converter failed. I reset and drove her for almost 200 miles to get the reading settled, but that did not work. I checked all my fuses and the smog-guy and I have no clue what the issue could be. I don't think that the catalytic converter needs replacing since she only has 60,000 miles on her, but what could be the problem that it keeps saying 'fail'.
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What are the symptoms of a bad catalytic converter? I have noticed for a while now, that my car has lost power. I changed the wires and spark plugs thinking that, that was my problem. I don't have the engine light on, would a clogged cat turn my engine light on. I have a 2005 gp.
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I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
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So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...
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My cat converter is rattling on driver's side and check engine light is on. Rattle is the inside of the converter, not the heat shield. How much $ and what kind of converter replacement is recommended?
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It came on 2-3 miles after a cold start. 3.6 with 137,000 miles. What's next? First car I've owned that uses very little oil between oil changes.
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I have a big hole in my catalytic converter and the car sounds like it is missing a muffler. Where I should go to have that hole welded as i do not see myself spending ~700 to get a new one for Passat 2003.
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I have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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