Passat (B5) :: 2005 1.8T Shutting Down Randomly While Stopped - EPC Light On
Mar 20, 2011
I had the battery checked. Good battery. No codes via regular obd 2 scanner.
2002 passat B5.5 1.8t 5speed.
2x while stopped downhill it shutdown.
Also sometimes has hard starts.
when that happens I get the EPC light light up.
cel is on anyway from p0420 (cat)
If I shut it down and turn it on, maybe after 2-3 tries itll come on. What could it be?
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As the title says, I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was bought brand new back in September. I now have 6,300 miles on it.
Anyways, started it up last night, and started backing down my driveway that has a bit of an incline. Basically, I just have to ride the brake into the street, no acceleration needed.
As soon as the car got into the street, the engine just stopped. Not stuttering or anything, just like I had turned the key off, but all electrical systems still on. Put it in park, foot on brake, and it would not even turn over, just a dead key.
So, turned the key off, removed key, opened door, and re-attempted to start. Engine started at this point.
Needless to say, I'm a little unnerved at a brand new $30K vehicle doing this at only 6K miles. Dealership can't get it in until next Thursday.
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump will randomly continue to run after shutting the vehicle off for about 5 seconds. Fuel pump is extremely loud and after shutting off the vehicle the pump sounds like this (make a fuel pump noise outloud and read) - "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee wee wee weeeeeeeeeee" and then shuts off. I've owned a slew of vehicles (5 other diesel trucks included) and not a one of them has done this.
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My sister has 03 wagon GLX and her a/c just stopped working one day. It was a few months ago and I remember when it happened that I scanned w/ VAG-COM and it gave some sort of pressure switch code - can't remember if it was low or high, but at time she wasn't concerned w/ it ($$ was tight). Unfortunately, I saved info on my laptop and can't find the document now and the car isn't throwing the code any more (I tried turning a/c on several times).
It sounds like a pressure switch to me, but not sure what the part would be (or where it is located on car). Any tests I can perform to confirm this? Also, I see two listed on ECS and they're nothing alike
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Problems with gas gauge just randomly shutting off? I was driving home from Tennessee yesterday, and was closely monitoring my MPG on the MFD and my gas gauge... I look down to see the MFD read ----- MPG and the gas gauge was completely shut off.
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So I'm driving and my headlights shut off! I flick the brights and the lights come back on instantly. 5 minutes later it happens again. So I'm driving around wondering when it's going to go out for good and flicking my surprise headlights. I should mention the brights are out and I haven't located a fuse for them. In any case it wouldnt be a fuse and probably not a short as the lights come on so dependably when I flick the switch. I'm thinking maybe a bad combo switch or maybe a bad relay.
1989 Nissan Pathfinder .....
Wiring or a switch. I looked in the shop manual and I couldn't find a relay. Maybe in finding the issue with the brights will relate. Also I'm not driving this car at night right now.
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It's been my goal to get my car to run a 13 on the stock turbo for years. I got bored last night and decided to roll out to the track and finally did it. In the past I had tried just about everything, pulled the back seats out, ditched the spare, and hours of data logging timing trying to dial it in just right but never could. Of course last night I was running with a full interior, spare and even had a passenger with my timing still pulled back -2.25 deg from the summer heat, didnt even check my oil or air pressure and I pull this off
R/T: .498
60': 2.147
1/8: 8.983@79.47mph
1/4: 13.818@102.59mph
Only problem is this was really my only goal for the car so I dont know wtf to do now??
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I have an '02 337 GTI, Chipped but the previous owner don't know what chip is installed
Anyways, lately if I'm just cruising around the city in 5th, or on the highway, the engine will shut off completely. Electrical still on, battery light and all that jazz does not come on unless the RPMs go all the way down, then I have to actually start the car up again. Takes alot longer to crank afterwards.
Sometimes I will be driving and it happens, but I keep my foot down on the throttle, and just wait and engine will kick back in hard as hell!
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I have a 03 F250 5.4 4x4 auto, last year I had a problem with the truck shutting off randomly. So after doing all the dumb stuff and research I ended up concluding that the FP relay was acting up and my understanding is that, it is located in the fuse block. So not wanting to replace it I wired up my own relay next to the safety switch in the passenger side kick panel and it has been fine ever since. I did put a new pump in it (Cali emissions) Now to present day-
Over the past month my truck would have a slight hesitation problem when accelerating on the highway/up grade. The issue was it would go away for a while when you would shut the truck off and be good for a while. Well then it started happening all the time.
I knew I was do for a tune up (215,000) so I did all the plugs, COP's, fuel filter and a PM. It got a lot better but was still there at the top end. So after doing a lot of research I found a lot of people having the same issues, so for testing purposes I cut the CAT out and installed a section of flex pipe. (Iwill be installing the cat back in)
So last night I take it out and its even worse...I went don to my buddy's place and hooked up a Versus and got no codes at all, no misfires on the counter..absolutely nothing. So I did what I should have done in the beginning and duct taped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and took off.
At idle I have 30 or so PSI, and when it was fine it would stay around that, when it started acting up it would drop to 5-2psi under load and go back to 30 or so PSI at idle. The other thing is now I only have 1/4 tank of gas.
What I am concluding is that the pump is getting hot and weak, because when I had a full fuel tank it was better and now I have less fuel to cool the pump and it is happening faster. Should I just throw another new pump in it? Or go after a voltage problem to the pump?
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I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.
I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.
I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.
I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.
I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.
I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.
The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.
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What might be causing these issues?
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Have this vibration through the steering wheel? (Avalon V6) I'm hoping this isn't a defect in the car...
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