Passat (B5) :: 2004 Wagon 1.8T - No Power To Fuel Pump When Opening Door
Jun 25, 2012
Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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No more fuel pump priming sound upon opening door but the car still fires up without any problem. And yes it was after the car sat for a day or two without being started. I kind of got used to that sound and was like now that it is gone. Should I be worried my fuel pump is on the way out?
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So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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My wife's 07 santa fe has started to develop an issue with the fuel door not always opening when the button is pressed. I haven't had to use the manual release yet but sometimes you have to hit the button 5-10 times before you hear the click and it opens. The vehicle just went off warranty (of course!) and since the nearest Hyundai dealer is 2 1/2 hours away it would be nice to work on it myself.
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I have a 06 passat v6 with 34,5000 miles and with extended warranty,the car consumes about 14 mpg city and I noticed a humming noise coming from the back seat or bellow the trunk I am positive is the fuel pump, I will like to know if my poor mileage is related to the humming noise or should I take it to the dealer to have replace under warranty...
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I put my car in reverse and my door locks has some sort of spasm. The rear locks started twitching for several seconds then stopped.
Now both key fobs will only unlock the drive's side door. All locks work fine with the key.
Untimely demise on my remote unlock feature? Other threads have dealt with single door issues. We had that problem with the rear door on our 99 but this not the same issue since only one door will unlock remotely.
I know that my car battery needs to be replaced but it should not cause a problem. Also all fuses were checked and are ok. What to check.
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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So I'm stumped I have an 04 6 liter and I have no power to my fuel pump. My fuse under my Dash is good which is a 20 amp fuse which is number 40. My inertia switch is not tripped and I have power to it however my fuel pump does not have power what else could it be? Is there a relay somewhere else?
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Remote will pop the lock up or down but cant open the door. Tried the keyhole with the same result. Cant open the the door from the inside either. Whats wrong?
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So after a long trip from my vacation I ended up running over a dead deer on my 2004 VW Jetta GLI 1.8T AWP. As soon as I hit the car turned off. I was looking around to see what the damage was and everything looked intact but my car still wouldn't turn on. I checked some things and came to the conclusion that there was no fuel running to the engine (whenever the key would be on the "ON" position the fuel pump didn't make the usual "whirring" sound meaning it was on).
So I checked the fuel pump fuse, that was good but when I checked if there was current in the fuse, there wasn't. Then I disconnected the fuel pump to see if there was current going through the connector and there wasn't. This led me to check the fuel pump relay. Relay looked good and when I checked to see if there was current going through to the relay, there wasn't. So my issue is that the car is not turning on because there is no current going through to the fuel pump and no current to the relay and fuse.
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Lots of SAFETY concerns . At 927am Feb 15, 2105 while driving at 100 kph on the highway (25 min) my drivers door opened to the safety stop by itself!
While driving and turning the corner my radio occasionally changes radio stations and sometimes goes to MAX volume! You cannot turn it down or off!
Drives door whistles at 70kph took it to dealer 6 times no solution!
My 6 month old Passat TDI Highline is possessed!
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I am new to VW. I just purchased 2 new cars on Monday of this week. A 2012 Jetta SE for my wife and a 2012 Passat SE for me. We are loving both of these cars.
I have a question though. If my car has been locked for a little while, I unlock the car, open the door, I hear a noise inside the car as if an electronic motor is running. It only last for a second or 2 and I can't pinpoint the noise. It almost sounds like the power seat is moving but I don't think that is it. Hears that noise when you are entering your car?
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Santa fe 2.7litre 2004 240000km... My santa fe won't start, after check we found no power at the fuel pump. we change pump, we found a bad contact at the remote starter connection. we decide to cut the wires of remote starter. after the car start and ride 1 day, stop with check engine, towing
We take off the remote starter and disconnect all wire of this remote starter. The car start and stop. After that bizarre problem, the park light stay open, and the window can be up and don't with no key in the ignition!!!!
We check fuse relay etc, all wire of the old remote starter and we take off battery and rebuilt the ground. We still have the same problem; when we tried to start at acc, everything seam normal but the wipers run at off position and when we turn the key for starting , wiper stop , radio close.
Like we have a ground problem. We change the ignition little baril now we think the computer is maybe dead. I double check all remote starter wire and every thing seem ok !!!!!
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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I have Toyota Prius 2006. Last night suddenly the rear right door didn't open from inside and it still doesn't want to open from inside. It opens from outside OK but is not opening from inside regardless what we are trying to do. It only one door misbehaves, the right rear door. How to fix this problem and why it happened?
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It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
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I have a 2005 F-150 supercrew 4.6L with appx 127,000 miles on it. Back in December i took the family to a drive in movie and left the ignition turned to the on position. I jumped the battery and drove a few miles home. The next morning when i tried to start the truck it would not turn over. There was a buzzing noise coming from the fuel pump but not enough juice to turn the truck over. This has happened a few times in the last couple of months but will jump and run fine for weeks at a time. I've taken a 2500 mile round trip to Texas with no issues. I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend and now it will not start. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump relay? I went to the parts store and bought a relay but it's not the same size as the one in my Haynes Manual. The part from the store is the same size as the bigger relays in the kick panel fuse box but does not match any of the plugs. According to my manual the fuel pump relay should be a smaller relay.
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We bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
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I had problems with the 12v battery, it was drained and I had to recharge it, which meant disconnecting the negative/ground/earth cable. Ever since the rear door opening button on the outside of the car won't work.
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