Passat (B5) :: 2004 VW Shaking - Check Engine Light Came On
Feb 15, 2011
I am still pretty new to the VW world. About 2 months ago I bought an 04 GLX 4Motion Passat with a 2.8 V6. On Saturday night my fiance (and primary driver of the VW) went to go start the car to go out for the night and the check engine light came on and she said the car was kind of shaking. She decided to take my car instead. I went out yesterday and today to try to start it and it wont crank over; it sounds like it wants to but just wont. She also said that on Sat. night that it smelled like gasoline outside of the car. What this could be? I dont know if the engine is flooded or what the hell is going on. The car has 93,xxx miles on it.
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I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
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With a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
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My mechanic said one cylinder isnt working though we havent done any checking beyond wires. It's not worth putting money into but I cannot afford to get anything else. Will driving on just the 5 cylinders create increased damage or other issues that will get me stranded? it starts right up, is rough but levels out after a couple minutes It is smooth driving under 40mph, but acceleration above that creates shaking and check engine light flashing, no ominous ticking noises but can tell not firing on all cylinders. Problem is I will have to drive it highway speeds at some point-tried it before and made it-was able to eventually baby it up to the required traffic mph with the shaking diminishing and smoothing out but rattling started up again every time I had to hit the accelerator to increase the speed. What can I expect by continuing to drive it?
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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On my V6 2004 (just hit 120,000 kms, just changed the oils 2 weeks ago) I was driving on the hiway yesterday, when the whole vehicle started shaking and vibrating - engine light blinked a few times, then stayed ON solid.
I could reduce the shaking by letting go on the throttle pedal, so I stopped and checked, nothing obvious, oil level good etc. I could hear some sort of clunking noise when engine was revved up.
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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Okay, I bought this car used and the previous owner apparently didn't maintain it. So I spent the last couple months having a new (used) engine installed. All said it's been in the shop longer (by twice) than I've been driving it. On the way home from the mechanic the check engine light came on.
If I keep changing my oil every 2000 miles will it sludge again? Dealer recommended every 1500 to 2000 miles! I've spent 15k on this car so far, and driven it about 2k miles......
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Got in the car this morning and started it up. Other than it being -6 degrees out, nothing unusual. The damn check engine light came on. Nothing seemed unusual driving it. Will be checking it tomorrow.
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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I recently got my 40k service done at a VW dealership. This morning, my check engine light came on.
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I have a 2003 W8 and the check engine light came on today for the cam b sensor... The car has had no problems and drives fine, I do not quite get why all the sudden it is on, and before I bought the car, 2000 miles ago the cam sensor was replaced for inspection, and I drove it for 1000 miles, and now the mil is on and it is running a little ruff... Where exactly on the head is it located? which head would have cam b sensor? I really do not think it is bad again.
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I have had a check engine light on in my car for a while now. I am pretty sure that it deals with the disconnection of the vacuum servo that controls the intake manifold's flaps that designate which track the air takes through the manifold. It has been running fine like this for a while under the assumption that because the performance of the vehicle hasn't changed, there is no need for immediate repair.
Here is my new problem which I am trying to determine if it has to do with the above issue. Over the past few days my car has been giving me EPC and ASR lights along with switching to back-up power. I have been on expressways driving 80, i have been going around corners doing less than 20, and it has happened everywhere in between. Keep in mind that when it happens i slip my car into neutral, pull over, and reboot. After that everything is fine for a short while. I stopped at Auto Zone to get a diagnostic, and for some reason, which i did not feel like questioning due to the way the autozone employee was mentally equipped, they did not give me codes, but descriptions.
(1) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 1
(2) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 2
(3) PCM Processor Fault
(4) Running too lean on Bank 1
(5) Running too lean on bank 2.
These are the descriptions for the 5 fault codes. I am planning on stopping back today and getting the proper codes. But would like to get some opinions in the mean time. I've check fuses and relays pertaining to this issue and all have tested ok. Nothing is leaking from my engine and nothing is visibly damaged, except for the vacuum servo arm which is broken (see above paragraph). I feel like the issue is with the ECM (PCM, PCM, ECU, whatever).
Another interesting thing is that when i operate my car using the cruise control, there are no issues what so ever. Possibly an issue with the throttle or its many components?
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After I finally got around to replacing my ABS pump I went to get my smog check done. Passed except I didn't drive enough miles to qualify.The SMOG tech told me to drive 150 miles and come back. I drive the 150 plus miles and within that time my check engine light comes on. I go to the shop and have it reset.
How many miles do I have to drive the car after a Check Engine Light reset in order to qualify for a Cali SMOG Check.
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I have taken my car into service twice because of the check engine light being on. They fix it and say it has something to do with the intake. It is now on for a third time. Obviously they are not fixing the problem. BTW, I have done no modifications to my car.
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How do you reset the CE light on a 99 passat?
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Ok, recently my check engine light came on and i read the code with a cheap-o scanner. It read an o2 sensor code (up stream) i then read it again with a scanner that advanced auto parts offers for use, and it read p 1138 i think. I looked the code up on line and it was a fuel lean bank 1 or something like that. All the info i found sugests a smoke test of the vacumm system. I fist did a visual check of the hoses and also a few burst of carb cleaner and listened for the idle to raise but got no results. I also changed the o2 sensor for good measure, is there anything else i can try before i shell out the cash for a full diagnostic.
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I had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
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