I was driving along the highway and started losing power and within a few minutes I pulled over and and would not start. It turns over strong but never fires up. I recently had a Coil over plug replaced. I am thinking fuel filter or ignition coil hoping it is not a fuel pump.
2004 4-Motion, 1.8 turbo, Tiptronic Trans.
I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
View 3 RepliesI brought my 2000 9-5 Saab to Jiffy Lube on July 13th. On July 18th, it wouldn't start. It would turn over and everything, but it would just sit there and do the, "ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh." I waited half an hour, and tried it again and to my surprise, it started. I drove it home without issue. The next morning, it did the same thing, but this time, it didn't start. Had it towed to the Saab guy, he says there's no compression in two of the cylinders and that it's going to be $1000 to fix the thing. I called someone for a second opinion, and he asked if I had run out of oil because no compression usually means an issue with the oil or something. Could Jiffy Lube have done something to cause an issue, and if so, is there anything that I can do about it?
View 16 RepliesA buddy of mine has a gti that is not starting. he said the temp light has been coming on and the car would start to struggle. of course he kept driving. Today it came on and stalled out. Now the car turns over but wont start. I replaced the temp sensor (green plug) and it wasn't the issue. its a 1.8t with 80k on it. 2002. I am assuming its got to be fuel or spark.
View 15 RepliesMy 96 Town and Country won't start. It turns over and fires for about 1-2 seconds max. After that it only turns over, no fire. The key sign/symptom is that the odometer and PRNL do not light up. This is very sporadic. Sometimes months and months apart. I unhook the battery in an effort to reset the computer. Sometimes it works in 1/2 hr. Sometimes several hours. So I don't think it resets but I still do it anyway. I have replaced the computer but no luck. Could it somehow be the dash cluster?
View 8 RepliesMy wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
I have a 2013 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.0. It has 53k miles on it and I purchased it new. A few days ago I tried staring my truck, and on the 5th attempt it finally started. Well I went and replaced the battery because it tested weak. It happened again this morning and it didn't start. I had to have it towed to a mechanic. It turns over strong so I'm thinking it may be a fuel problem. It's not a security issue regarding the smart key. I tried my wife's key and still It didn't start.
View 14 RepliesI have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
View 7 RepliesWhen I fill my tank with gas I get a very strong odor of gas throughout the vehicle, what do I need to check to fix this?
Also this one is weird, but everytime I make left turns ONLY, my Jeep does a down shift but stays in Neutral longer than it should but then kicks into gear by me taking my foot off the gas pedal and reapplying. What this could be? I have made sure that my Transmission levels were fine but I am baffled what the problem is?
Haven experienced a couple of times now that my B6 3.2 VR6 (V6) have a little problem to start, it seem to start up fine then shuts down - and one will have to keep starting it for some time before it finaly fires up correctly........
I have not experienced yet this behaviour when the car is warm, and personally I'm starting to think about the injector coil stuff thingy - but haven't done a vag-com yet, but will do.
I know the 3.2 was only uin EU, but basically pretty much the same as the 3.6, they are both a VR system
I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
How many motor mounts the gen 2 prius has? My ICE seems to shudder quite a bit when it fires up. I've checked the one underneath the engine and it looks good. So say there is 3 mounts and i could only replace 1 of them which on does the most dampening?
View 11 RepliesIntermittently, perhaps every 20 starts or so, I get this really high pitched squeak for a split second as soon as the engine fires. What it might be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta TDI Stationwagon. In January it started having starting problems. The car would crank but not fire. After about 8-9 tries it would fire. MOstly does it first crank of the day (whether morning or afternoon).
Mechanic #1 said it was the fuel filter and changed it. But it still had starting problems. Then Mechanic #1 said it was a sensor and changed it. Still had starting problems. In February, Mechanic #2 said it was the fuel pump. Changed the fuel pump. Still had starting problems.
Then Mechanic #2 said it was the crank sensor. But when he checked the crank sensor was brand new (apparently Mech #1 changed it in January). Still had same starting problems.
Mechanic #3 said he received the Crank sensor diagnostic error too but he checked it and it was brand new! He told me to take it to the dealer. I did. Dealer said no it wasn't the crank sensor it was the new fuel pump installed in April was defective. Took off the brand new fuel pump that was installed another brand new fuel pump. Next day car started fine but two days later didn't start again. Took car back to the dealer. They said after all it wasn't the fuel pump it was the crank sensor. After a couple days they said it wasn't the crank sensor but it was the EGR valve that was clogged with carbon. They changed the EGR valve, cleaned it out and gave the car back to me.
Today the car doesn't start again! I tried it about 7 times! Dealer is going to haul it back and try to figure it out! But I am frustrated! What could it be?
I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
After the upgrade to APR Stage 1, there is a strong Gas smell in the car. The APR dealer indicates that this is normal (expected) due to the additional boost.
Is this correct. DO all of you who have the APR upgrade have a gas smell in the car? The car has a stock exhaust.
I just replaced my steering rack and now I have a strong pull to the right when boost come in.
I am gettin an alignment this week but could an aligned problem cause this?
I transferred my old tie rod ends over to the new set up. They are pretty new.
It's a very similar feeling to when I had a bad control arm bushing. I just replaced a lot if the front end stuff though and this was not happening before the install.
I leased my 2012 Passat SE 2.5 Manual in March and I have been happy with it overall; however, the car has some strange behavior. Sometimes, under hard acceleration while the clutch is partially engaged a strong vibration comes from the engine bay accompanied by a flashing check engine light that turns solid after about 10 seconds. The vibration feels similar to but not exactly like ABS brakes. I took it to the dealer, took a technician on a test drive, reproduced the event for him, and left it in their hands for a day or two. The check engine light code was for an engine misfire. They told me to contact them if it happened again. It has happened a few times ( I need to take it back). I would like to know if I have a defect or if there is a design flaw in one of the systems.
View 24 RepliesCar: 02 Passat GLX V6 4motion
Mileage: 99k
Just recently bought this car (3 months ago) and I have had lots of issue with it already. I topped off the tank that same week and it started to leak gas right under the gas tank (driver side in front of the rear wheel).
No engine light came on. It leaked for couple of days for about an hour after I park the car then it would stop until I drive again. It did that for couple of days until the gas level went down to 2/3 then it stopped. Since then I stopped topping it off and it hasn't leaked.
However I always smell gas even when its not leaking. When I go around the car the odor comes from right in front of the rear wheel (driver side).
Prior History: This car was rear ended before and fixed up by the prior owner. The seller told me that he had recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator that week.
I took it to the mechanic and had them do a smoke test. They couldn't pin point the leak so they recommended replacing the entire fuel tank for $1800. I walked away and thought I would just keep the fuel level low and keep driving. However the gas smell really bothers me because the car is parked in the garage and the gas odor builds up to unbearable condition.
What could cause this issue? Does this has anything to do with fuel pressure regulator that was replaced? Anything to do with fuel pump because of the rear end accident or loose seal in that area? Do you think it is necessary to replace the whole tank for this?