Passat (B5) :: 2004 - Random Misfire At Idle Like One Hard Knock
Apr 15, 2012
2004 Passat 1.8t 4motion ... I am getting random misfire at idle like one hard knock then every thing is ok. I also have no MIL light or retrievable codes. I checked for vacuum leaks don't see any. Change out some old vacuum check valves. Replaced oil breather hose had crack. I Changed timing sensor, timing belt and fuel filter fuel pump died changed out. The old fuel filter had something rattling around in it is that normal? Also when I get gas no matter where, 91 octane only the car idle stumbles about 5 minutes after fill up then smooths out after a mile or so. EVAP purge valve clicks some times? Haven't check EVAP canister for saturation. Fuel regulator? I haven't checked fuel pressure. Car was not starting after sitting for week end hard start took 3 to 4 tries then starts up ok for some reason that is not happening now?
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1999 Passat 2.8L. New coil pack assembly, wires, plugs, valve cover gasket(oil in plug holes). Misfire at idle and low rpm. Driving at higher rpm's misfire seems to go away. Codes are random misfire and cyl 1 misfire. Need to know if I would get an injector code if a fault or If that motor has problem with faulty cams or springs or any other common problems. I am going to do a compression check this weekend I'll update that info.....
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Ok. Im going to keep this as short as possible. I bought my 05 passat 1.8t AWM TIP used in 09 with 44k
At around 90k I started getting a Random misfire only at idle. And it would be a different cylinder, not always the same would come back after clearing. The RPMs would be very low like around 840. And i think it should be around 920-960. That seems to be one of the main issues. Everything on the car is stock.
So basically, If my CEL starts flashing, and I clear it, I could drive a million miles with no misfires, but as soon as it starts to idle they come back ( I do have vag-com) and know how to use it for basic functions.
This is what has been done:
July 2011:
Engine rebuild (bad piston rings due to clogged cat converter)
Timing belt Kit (Timing was off 5 degrees!!!)
brand new turbo KO3, and Oil feed line
DV
N75 valve
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAF sensor
ECU swapped out (old ECU would not go through all steps for Throttle body alignment)
So, after all this and 3 weeks later, I get the car back and it ran great the whole way home. Put it in park waited 5 seconds, and the random misfires came back. So it went back to the shop the next day.
September 2011
These things were done:
Crank Position sensor
Cam position sensor
Compression test ( to make sure he didn't make a mistake while rebuilding motor) Results were Perfect
Leakdown test
Map sensor
Another MAF
2 O2 sensors
Upgraded DV
Fuel injectors
Removed engine wiring harness and OHMed every single wire. Nothing wrong
OEM Coilpacks
3 sets of copper plugs
Throttle body was swapped with 2 others from known working cars.
Trans pan replaced fluid flushed and new trans filter
I have heard this is a fairly common thing on the B5.5 models...
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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First: 2007 GX470 with 63k miles
On some 'cold' starts (and I use that term very loosely, because it never really drops below 40 degrees here), when the engine has sat overnight, and when I shift into reverse (never Drive, just Reverse) and stand on the brake I get a knock. I don't hear it in Park. Not valve clatter like on my german cars while the oil gets routed to the lifters, but instead a loud, startling deep-down knock that sounds like BAMBAMBAMBAMBAM. Then it goes away. Put it in neutral and the revs rise and it's gone. Put it in Drive and nothing there. Just lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds, but is it loud. BAMBAMBAMBAM! Like someone hitting a 2x4 on the block or tranny housing.
Once I'm past that 5-10 seconds it won't do it again all day. Just after a "cold soak". And perhaps 5-10% of the time.
There is a lot of examples with this motor of what some call "piston slap". Don't know if I have it - and I suppose it might get worse (to the point where I hear it) when the engine is cold and under load (in gear), but I don't get it in Drive. Just Reverse.
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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Random multiple cylinder misfire according to auto scanner report on a 2002 Passat 1.8L? I have recently changed all belts including the timing toothed belt. I have had this very same problem prior to changing all belts on this car. Mileage is 111,000 ....
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I went and looked at an 03 Passat 1.8T with 114k miles. I like the car and the price but the CEL is on, returning random misfire on each cylinder with a standard (non VW) scanner. There are no other codes. The car runs beautifully until it idles low with the car stopped or stopping; then you can feel it missing.
The coil packs and controller arms were recently replaced. The timing belt was replaced at 100k. The spark plugs and wires have not been replaced. I don't know whether the coil packs are stock or not, should I ask? The code can be cleared but then it comes back (I'm not sure how long it takes; I could ask).
I've collected this list of possible things to check, based on this useful previous post:
1. Oil overfill.
2. Downstream O2 sensor.
3. Spark plugs and cables.
4. Cam Shaft Adjuster? (maybe? there is no cam shaft code?)
5. Plugged fuel injectors?
6. Plugged catalytic converter.
7. Cam timing?
8. Induction cleaning?
Is this a good list? Are there possible troubleshooting steps not included here? Are some of these superfluous in my situation?
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What is going on with my sisters passat 2002 V6 GLX Auto 4Motion. Here is the codes:
16730-Camshaft Position Sensor (G163) Implausible Signal
P0346-35-00
16684-Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300-35-00
16688-Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304-35-00
16690- Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected
P0306-35-00
16689-Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305-35-00
I changed Both sensors and it still same problem. Car only has 40,000 miles didnt change timing belt.
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my car was running fine yesterday. Today the check engine light came on and it started to run funny.. I checked the diagnostic code and it says the the cylinder is misfiring and that oxsygun sensor is malfunctioning. (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected)
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I have a '06 Passat 3.6. I had the intake and valve cover off the other day and when I put it back together it started missing bad. The code it is throwing is a P0300/ random/multiple engine cylinder misfire. What is wrong?
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I was driving along and the engine started missing really bad. The whole car was bouncing around. At first I thought I had a flat, but when I stopped I noticed it was the engine. I checked the error codes and got 16684 and 16686 --- Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.
I had a problem recently with the vacuum hose broken and was causing an error code. Replace the hoses and it has been fine. Checked to make sure that the hoses were secure and they are fine. Doesn't seem to me to be related. So many problems for a car with 57,500 miles
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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The "check engine" light on my 2004 Dodge Intrepid has been on (not blinking though) for months and, after putting new spark plugs, wires, ignition coils, 02 sensors, cam sensors and other things, the code that keeps coming up is P300 random misfire. After a few of the above items were put in (particularly the 02 sensors), the light would go off for a day or two but then always come back on. Because of this "random misfire", the car basically has no power when I push the accelerator down (at least until it warms up for a while and even then too sometimes).
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I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
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Friend has a 2006 with the 4.6 motor. From time to time he gets a random misfire code ( I think its 0316).. He claims it will only do it when the gas tank is less that half full. I don't see any correlation between fuel level and the code. I am going to check fuel trim values, etc, when the code is set, this weekend.... all I can assume is low fuel pressure which sets the code... Any problem with the pressure module or fuel pump / discharge hose that is related to low level in the tank ?
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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I have a 2005 Prius Gen II with 114,000 miles on it. I was driving last week when it suddenly displayed a Christmas tree of lights that included VSC and the triangle of death....and of course the battery fan kicked into high gear.
Hooked it into a OBD II scanner:
P0A80 "Hybrid battery pack over temperature"
P3019 "battery block 7 becomes weak"
P3000 "DSL solenoid circut low"
P0300 "random misfire detected"
P000A "engine position system performance- bank 1"
Also C1241, C1242, c1249, c1259, c1310, c1357
I went ahead and cleared the codes. The angry lights went away but came back within minutes of driving. The car went into limp mode but I was able to make it home.
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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