Passat (B5) :: 2004 - Power Cut Out When Cruising At About 65 Mph On Highway
Sep 14, 2010
So I've owned my 04 Passat for almost 3-4 months now, I have a 1.8T 4Motion w/ 5speed, and love it. It will certainly be nice in the winter time with the snow and cold here in North Dakota.
I was driving on one of the state highways, and was cruising at about 65mph, when the power cut out, and giving gas didn't do anything and I eventually came to a stop. I let the car sit for a minute, tried starting and could tell that the engine was trying to turn over but wouldn't. This has happened before with my jetta, and its always been because of water in the fuel lines during a heavy rain, so I had my roommate come give me some more gas to see if we could just run the water out of the system since it had been raining pretty heavily here lately. Still no joy on getting started, occasionally the engine would turn over, RPM's would get up to about 1100-1200, and then instead of stabilizing at idle, the engine would just cut out again right away.
Got a tow from my insurance company to a local auto service shop who took a look at it and got a code saying the speed sensor wasn't working. They allegedly took it apart last night and fixed the speed sensor, had a loose wire, but it still won't start up. They've narrowed it down to the crankshaft sensor, or the entire ECU module being shot. I'll know by tomorrow if the crankshaft sensor is in fact the case.
If it isn't the crankshaft sensor, then is it definitely an issue with the ECU? Would it be worth to get an ECU pre-chipped(APR seems to be the way to go), and have that installed instead of a stock unit? Is it even possible to get a chip from these guys that comes already chipped, or would I need to get a new ECU first and then get it modded.
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On my way home from work today I could not believe my eyes when the Hybrid Warning Light came on…yes, the RED TRIANGLE! I was just cruising down the highway and I heard a relay click and then I saw the warning light illuminate. Also I noticed the A/C air started warming up, the fan stayed on though, so I am guessing the computer shut off the compressor?
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Experience a lurch during slowish highway cruising? If I am just putting along with my foot barely on the gas sometimes the car will give a jerk or a lurch like it's trying to decide whether or not to go fast or stall. Just a really quick bit of feeback that makes me think...what was that? Here are some common elements:
-Only happens when cruising at relatively gentle speeds (100km/hr or 55mph)
-Seems to happen more often if it's windy? Has happened a few times when passing by semi trailers
-Seems to happen more frequently when there is snow on the road or blowing snow?
Could it be some sort of sensor or air filter problem? No codes have been thrown.
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I'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
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I have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
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I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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On my way home from work tonight cruising on the highway, heard a loud thump followed by continuous thumps thereafter. Knowing this wasn't good pulled over to find a nice big nail in my passenger side front tire, great. thought I could make it home, I was about 6 exits away...one exit later nail flew out and tire was loosing air.
- luckily for me, I had a friend who lived nearby the exit the nail flew off and put on the spare.... now my question is I noticed some camber wear on the tire.. 15,200 miles to be exact on the stock oem bridgestones.
- I know these tires are complete crap but... is this camber wear normal? I've seen other posts about it but, is it the tires? or something to do with the car? I am pretty sure my alignment is fine. If I buy a new set of tires eventually will this end up happening again? Trying to gain some knowledge for the future.
Also is it true that with AWD cars, if you change one tire you have to change all 4? because it might mess up the drivetrain or something, at least that's what I was told.
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Noticed my 2002 F150 had a very slight vibration in the seat / steering wheel when cruising down the highway at 60 MPH.. Very slight, but was not there 2 weeks ago.. It seem to get a little worst as the 2 weeks progressed. Got all 4 tires balanced and rotated... no luck...Took both rear wheels off-- no problems with tires -- checked bearing clearance-- pushed and twisted on driveshaft yolk to check pinion bearing... nothing found......... last resort was drop back end of driveshaft and check U-joint.. It was tight and dry. Put drive shaft in 12 ton press and pushed out the u-joint bearings. Very dry and joint pins were starting to spall....... I mention this because I had checked " clearance" and "slop" and had "no noise" before removal... Truck has 139K miles on original u-joints .......... Something to keep in mind. Eventually it would have worn to the point that it was obvious, but in the first stages of failure, you just get small symptoms.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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I have noticed over the past few months that my gas mileage is dropping (from about 29 to 24) on the highway and I seem to have lost some power. I know the car is getting older, but where do you think I can get some of it back? The plugs are only 20K old and the air filter is new.
It is a 2004 1.8t with 109k on it.
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i have a 1998 passat 1.8t and in the past week my car started a slight sputter when i get on the gas and it gradually got worse the car starts up fine and idles perfect i did a compression check all 4 cylinders are exactly 150 psi now the problem just got worse when i go to leave a light or when im cruising down the highway and grt on it it sputters or and like pops or backfires outta the exhaust i just replaced the fuel filter and i still have the problem im stumped
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My 1999 Passat is acting up (yet again!). This time it's the A/C. I've noticed it works fine during normal driving, but if I am stuck in traffic and the engine is idling then it blows warm.
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I have a 2010 Passat 2.0T with 42k miles. Since it rolled over 38k on the odometer, I have been having a problem with the tranny dropping down to 5th, sometimes even 4th, while at cruising speeds (80-85 mph...Live in Texas). I notice this mostly on long drives (Ft Worth to San Antonio). The problem usually occurs while in Drive when I punch it to pass. Although, this is not always the case; sometimes it will drop down by simply letting off the accelerator or pushing the brake.
When this happens, I have to manually shift it back into 6th and its a crap shoot if it stays there when I put it back into Drive. This last trip I drove 90% manually because it would not stay in 6th in Drive. After calling the dealer and them telling me that it was probably a cruise problem, I turned off the cruise and drove without it with the same results. I bought this car used with 19k miles; Is the transmission covered under warranty or are there any recalls on this?
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I've been trying to track down a lack of power with my 7.3 for a few months now. I've had the truck for 8 years and there's just something off with it lately. When warm under a light load, such as accelerating while cruising at 40mph or going up a light hill at 30mph+, around 1100 to 1400rpm, there's just a distinct lack of power.
The engine starts lugging and the injector or valve noise increases dramatically until I push the throttle down far enough (60%+) for the transmission to downshift. Once it downshifts the engine sounds normal and takes off like it should.
At higher RPMs, it's seems to run okay, but it feels a bit down on power there. Otherwise, it starts great, idles pretty well with a slight miss, and no smoke that I've been able to see.
When it's dead cold in the morning, it seems to run better than any other time of the day.
I don't have any trouble codes other than a disconnected EPBV. One morning I did get P1670 when the engine nearly died when coming to a stop. I'm chalking that one up as a fluke due to a broken valve cover harness connector tab.
The truck has 170k miles and is mostly stock: AFE intake, 4" exhaust, and no muffler. It has an old Edge Evo programmer (yeah, yeah) that I removed a while back. I going to put it back on so I can monitor my EGTs.
The ICP, IPR%, and boost are all within spec. Buzz test sounds fine. CCT says #8 is bad with the grey CPS. Here's a datalog of a full throttle 70mph run.
[URL] ......
Recently I've decided to fix known problems:
HPOP line leak to the driver side bank
All Injector O-rings (black diesel in fuel bowl, suspicious oil consumption)
Replaced leaking intercooler couplers
EBP tube clogged, causing 0 boost sporadically, bypassed it by teeing into MAP sensor hose.
Various cam position sensors: grey (B), new dark blue (C)
Replaced leaking ICP sensor with generic sensor 6 months ago and unfortunately can't find original to test with. 2900psi without a tune seems a bit high, but reads consistently otherwise.
New fuel pump
Added service port to fuel bowl and measured 60-64psi at idle
Some things I have left to try:
Measure fuel pressure under load
Try out a parts store CPS I forgot I had.
Ziptie/secure broken valve cover harness connectors
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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