Passat (B5) :: 2004 Cranks But Does Not Turn Over - Engine Sludge
Nov 30, 2011
i have a 2004 passat 1.8t just hit 110k miles on it and a warning light that said stop engine oil pressure service manual came on and shortly after the engine died. it like putted like i ran out of gas. the engine cranks but doesnt turn over. i had it towed to a place and they said its the timing belt. another mechanic said that the engine could be blown. i researched the warning light and found a class action law suit against vw for engine sludge problems.
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We bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
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My wife went to use our 2004.5 Passat V6 4Motion and it takes quite a few cranks for the engine to turn over and start. It sounds like the battery is losing it's charge. When running, none of the idiot lights show anything.
I have a couple questions: Could the alternator be damaged and isn't charging the battery or is it possible for the battery to be going after only 4.5 years?
If it's just the battery, how easy is it to replace? I've done them on previous cars, but with all of the electronics and stuff, I'm concerned since it's behind the firewall and I've read stories about it losing all of the electronics. I couldn't see an easy way to remove it, but I didn't spend much time looking.
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My 2003 passat 1.8T has been in and out of the shop for the past few months all for the same prob oil sludge was building up in the engine the first time around tried to avoid pulling the oil pan and just ran some flush to clean it out needless to say that didn't work so i had to have my mech pull the oil pan and clean up the mess...... even though this is a known issue that vw is well aware of the refuse to fix the prob unless u have all of your oil change receipts which I do not have because i have my stepfather change my oil I now know that I need to run full synthetic in it......
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2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
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The engine cranks and turns over when I turn the key, but won't stay running unless I give it some gas. My mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it, but I haven't starting having him replace parts. What's going wrong. Could it be the fuel filter? fuel pump?
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My cousin has a 99 1.8T passat and its been sitting for a bit so initially I thought it was the battery but it is fine. The car cranks and it turns over but it will not start. It was fine than it was left for a few days when it was cold and has not started since.
I am not too farmiliar with the 1.8T .... I pulled out the dipstick and found the oil to be a little cloudy, that got me worried but last time it was driven the car was fine. It also looks kinda green but I am not sure if its the coolant since the coolant in the reservior is red or maybe orange.
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When I drive my 1.8T from cold the red oil warning and stop light flashes for a 5 to ten seconds it then goes off and all appears fine.Whist it is flashing there are no tappity noises and the engine sounds sweet. If I let the engine run for 5 mins before pulling away I have no problem
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Once warm it seems to be ok uless I drive hard on the motorway - then it comes on as I decelerate. Once again, everything sounds normal.I've always had services and oil changes on time. I had the engine flushed this week, but it has made no improvement.
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I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
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I went to check my oil this morning even thought its only been roughly 2000 miles since the last change/filter(Napa Gold and Mobil One 0w40). I noticed that the dipstick had just a tad of yellowish snot stuff on it. I know it mean water in the oil but I cleaned it off and recheck, put a hair more in and it was all clean no more snotty yellow gunk.
My question is because it is cold and my dad moves it almost every morning before work could it be condensation? I know with my 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe with roughly 153,000 miles used to get the same yellow snot stuff in the oil fill neck but never on the dipstick. The passats oil filler cap/neck were both free of any snotty stuff.
If its still like this tomorrow I'm taking it to the dealer. Also there's still coolant and I couldn't be sure if there was any less as if it was a leaky head gasket but the rest of the oil is clean and not milkshake like.
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My Accent recently died in traffic. All of the electronic components seem to be working. The engine cranks but does not turn over. I removed the spark plugs and they were soaked in gasoline and the plugs on the 1st and 2nd cylinder had a black residue. I dried them off and tried to start the car again, no luck. The spark plugs were soaked in gas.
Over the summer (5 months ago) 2 ignition coils fouled out and I replaced them along with all of the spark plugs.
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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During the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
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My 2003 camry had black oil when I bought the car. I flushed the engine with motor flush two times. Very dark oil came out both times. But when I did third time oil was clear.
I do not have any oil pan or valve cover leak. Do I need to drop the oil pan to clean the gunk if there any?Do I have to clean the oil pick up also?
If the oil is dirty and black does it mean gunk built up in oil pan and oil pick up strainer?
I peeped through the valve cover but I did not see any gunk in the cylinder head.
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My wife has a 2003 Camry LE with the 3mz-fe V6. First, from what I have seen, these engines appeared in 2004 models, but that's what's in it. Anyway, she doesn't take care of her car and the other night the check engine and oil indicators came on. Having been through this with a VW Passat (known sludge engine) myself, I immediately suspected a sludge issue. The next day, I had a mechanic come over and check it. He pulled one of the valve covers and sure enough, there was sludge everywhere, some of the oil journals completely occluded.
So, the question is what to do? As I said, I've been through this myself. When it first happened, I had to have main bearings replaced and they flushed the motor well enough to get normal oil pressure. It wasn't 3 months before the same thing happened. They flushed it again enough to get the oil pressure back to normal and I got rid of it that weekend. I know flushing the Camry could solve the problem, but could just as easily push sludge into other parts of the engine and give me a nice deja-vu. The other options are to have the motor rebuilt or buy a used motor. The car has 80K on it so I'm thinking a remanufactured engine.
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When I turn the key to start the engine, it makes the sound (I don't know what to call it) that it makes before the engine actually starts but it just keeps doing that. The dash has the battery light on in red so I think that might be the problem. It also flashed "STOP" at me on the dash so I stopped fiddling with it.
The dealership is only a few blocks away but they are closed until tuesday. What is usually the problem in this case? I know almost nothing about how cars work.
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a 2004 passat 1.8t 5spd came to the shop, cranks but does not
fire/run..i through the vas 5051 on there - p0688 - open circ. main relay...located this power supply relay and tested it - she had an open winding...replaced it runs excellent
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
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1999 Passat turbo with a little over 100K miles. Car ran fine last night. This morning, the engine/starter cranks well, but no fire. And it has gas in the tank.
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I went to start my car this morning it cranks and nothing it is not firing at all, and I do not hear the fuel pump when I open the door like I usually do. It just happened all the sudden. Is there a way to check fuel pressure in these in the W8? Also any known problems to make them do this? So irritating...
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Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
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