Longtime lurker here but I'm having a small problem with the AC in our wagon.... When we are driving (i.e. moving) the car, the ac is working well but when it is just sitting and idling, no cold air.
Freon checks out good but I'm concerned about a possible relay switch or worst case, entire compressor (ugh). Only at 63K miles so a bit irritated.
Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
View 1 RepliesIn the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
View 17 RepliesI have a 1.8 T, 2003 vw passat with 186,000 miles on it. I've had this problem for 3 years and nobody can figure it out. If I start the car and begin driving immediately I have no brakes. However, if I let the car warm up for about 2-3 minutes (maybe less) everything is fine. I have replaced the brake booster.
View 14 RepliesWhenever i leave work, i have to go in reverse to exit the parking lot. I noticed that the brakes are really ....mmm.....I am reversing and I press the brake to the bottom (it bottoms out very quick, not full lenght) and with it pressed at max the car barely stops. I almost hit the car that was parked on the other side..I freaked out cause I was at the bottom with the pedal and the car wasnt really stoping, so I pumped it up and it got harder and went lower to the bottom and it actually stoped and got responsive. I didnt notice that while going ahead from home, going forward. No issues whatsoever in normal driving. Pads are ok. Noticed that it is getting worse on hot days. Now I pump it up a few times before I even take out from park.
View 2 RepliesI've got a '06 passat. The a/c was working fine one day, and then the very next day it just stopped. the a/c light comes on when I push the button for it, but it won't blow cold air. I'm not sure if this is a common problem on passats or what's going on.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2006 Passat 2.0T (UK Model), and I'm having trouble with both the outside temperature reading and the climatronic's cooling ability. When I bought the car the air-con was blowing cold and warm air without any problems, but the "cold" air is just a little too warm to be working correctly. I've had the system re-gassed but this didn't solve anything.
As I said, all the features of the air-con work perfectly, it's just the cold air just isn't cold enough - so it seems to me that the compressor is working fine. Also, the outside air temperature reading on the MFD reads about 5-10 degrees too warm. Would this have anything to do with the air-con issue?
It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
View 5 Replies2004 Passat 1.8t that is intermittently not starting. The problem only happens when the car is cold. When I turn the key, the car cranks just fine but will not start. All of the dash lights light up and I had the battery tested and it is fine. Tonight it took about 5 minutes of repeated cranking and waiting before the car started.
After a 15-minute trip home and it had a chance to warm up, the car starts just fine. I've taken it to my mechanic but they haven't been able to replicate the problem. I'm thinking about leaving it overnight just so they'll be able to replicate it.
Not sure if it could be related, but I just had a coil replaced a few weeks ago (the coil was <1 year old). The plugs are only 3 months old.
I have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased my first VW. However...... the fog lights will not work, i check every fuse since i do not have a diagram with the car. All of the fuses seem to be in working condition which leaves me drawing a blank. What it could be? Looking for a PDF of the fuse layout.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
View 10 RepliesMy Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
View 11 RepliesMy 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
At once, all together three items on my VW Passat 2004 4Motion instrument panel stopped working:
a) engine coolant temperature gauge
b) fuel gauge
c) outside temperature digital display
What could be happening here. Does not look like a fuse issue...
Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
View 3 RepliesMy 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
View 2 RepliesI have a 4-cyl 2007 Camry XLE. I changed out the plugs, simple enough. but now the car seems to be idling too low, just a tick below 500 RPM. Its causing some minor vibrations as also the AC is not working at a stop, it just blow warm air. As soon as i push on the gas the RPM jerk up pretty sudden, the air pressure from the vents increases and its cooler. So it seems the AC issues is related to the RPM being too low so once i get the RPM's back up it should be good to go.
These are the stock Denzo SK20R11 plugs that were in the car : [URL] ....
And these are the equivalent NGK IFR6T11 plugs i put in [URL] .....
So, I thought maybe because the ECU got reset maybe some re-calibration, but I have driven a good 100 miles on it and no change so i doubt that's it.
I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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