Passat (B5) :: 2004 1.8t 4 Motion Wagon - Squishy Suspension
Feb 6, 2007
I love this car, but due to it's relative rarity, there don't seem to be too many ways to firm up the ride with some lowering. Eibach does not have a "package" for this model. I was considering getting 1BE springs with Koni FSD's.
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We bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
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My girlfriend has an 04 Passat Wagon (dunno how many miles on the odo), and it makes a groaning noise that gets louder and more pronounced the more she cranks the wheel. She took it in a few weeks ago to a place that specializes in European cars, and they changed the serpentine belt. Since then, the issue has gotten worse.
My very limited knowledge tells me that it might be the power steering pump, but I know next to nothing about this sort of thing, and even less than that w/re to VWs, except that the Germans sometimes engineer things a bit differently than most of the rest of the world. For all I know, the car doesn't even have a power steering pump and uses some other sort of electro-mechanical method to operate.
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I have an 05 V10 Touareg with air suspension. I often experience a kinking motion when going around roundabouts. It is as though the car wants to go straight even though the steering wheel is turning to the right or left. It is random, and my dealer has experianced the kinking and says that it should be expected. A friend of mine also has a V10 and his doesn't do it.
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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What the effect is of taking out the key fob while your car is in motion? I was on the highway once, and my friend asked what would happen if i were to try to take out the key.. I figured to myself, "VW surely must've implemented some sort of safety mechanism..", so i confidently gave it a try.. and to my surprise, the key actually came right out, and my console (speedometer / tach / fuel / engine temp) shut down.. I kinda panicked, and just popped the key fob right back in, and all was well after that.. What is actually going on with the car when you do this?
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Drove down yesterday it was drizzling and saw an SUV coming up rapidly behind me. Moved over to the middle lane and opened up as he trid to go past, we go to 130mph before traffic slowed me. As he cruised past in the fast lane I noticed the V10 TDI badge. Over 120 the wind resistance became a factor more for the Touareg than me.
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I have a 01 passat wagon here that wont crank. I would like to know where i can locate the neutral safety switch. Also the only light that works on the gauge cluster is the traction control light until you press the switch and then it will go off too. Would the cluster being broken cause the car to not crank????
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I inherited a Passat wagon abt a month ago and I just got an Oil Pressure Low warning.
Long story short, took it to the mechanic said it was a sludge issue in the oil pick up and that he'll have to drop the oil pan to fix it.
Don't have that to give at this point.
I'm confident I can tackle it myself but I need a DIY guide or the Haynes repair manual to guide me along the way.
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Always used the button to close it, and nothing particularly different happened last time my wife shut it... now it just makes a groan for a second or two, the TOP of the hatch pops out about a quarter inch (bottom doesn't move at all), and nothing else happens.
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I have about 80K on my Passat. This engine noise sounds like the rockers for the valves have to much play. I just hear it with low RPM. What can I do?
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I've been looking at the wagon for about a month now, but I am not too sure it has enough space in the rear to accomodate 2 convertible kid seats and a baby seat in the middle.
The Phaeton probably has a ton more space in the rear for that setup, but haven't really test driven one yet, but I am sure its a dream. The good thing is that the Phaeton is certified too and about a couple grand cheaper, even though it is used.
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I am looking at purchasing a 2003 passat glx 4motion (V6) with 170,000 miles on it for a winter car. The car I'm looking at has been diagnosed with a "rear viscous coupling loose" and a repair estimate of $1700 to fix. The car will be priced accordingly but I'm curious if this is something that I can repair myself and save a few beans.
I am pretty handy with repairs so that's not too big of a problem. I've been searching the forums and can't seem to find anything on this problem. Is this in the rear differential or is it a part of the Torsen center diff?
The car also has a clogged heater core, I've located plenty of info on this site on how to repair this so that won't be to hard.
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I just replaced pads and rotors on my 2000 Passat GLX. Everything went fine, i got done, pumped the pedal 10-15 times, took it for a test drive. When I depress the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor, the car pulls right, then left, and slowly stops. At this point, if I hit the brakes again, it feels normal.
I figured it just needed a few minutes, I drove it for about 45 minutes, and it never got any better. I have changed the brakes several times before and never seen anything like this before.
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2001 Passat Wagon GLS v6 - 83k
Just replaced the drivers-side taillight and hood strut. Been a week or so since the vehicle has last been started as it is sitting in the garage. When I start the vehicle, it will turn over a bit, cranking away, then start clicking (pretty quickly).
If I pay careful attention while it is turning over, I can hear the door locks making some noise, kinda like they are trying to decide whether to lock or not. I will also get dash light flickering on/off. turn-turn-turn / click-click-click
I know it is not the battery. All power works fine when the key is just in the on position, no dimming, etc. Though it seems to be something electrical with the weird noises I get while trying to start.
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I have 2002 1.8T Wagon GLS with a manual climatic (with 3 big dial buttons). The weather is now getting cold and yesterday I started to realize there is no air coming from the bottom vents (both passenger and driver side) when the air flow dial button is set to bottom vents. All other positions (windshield and front vents) are all working. The air flow dial button appears to be mechanically controlled.
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Just got a CEL on my 03 Passat Wagon 1.8t. The light started blinking and car ran really rough. I also heard what I thought was a metalic clicking from the motor. Pulled the engine cover off and heard it even better. Had my wife start the car so I could get a closer look and it started up just fine. I have heard of a few things that might cause this. I am waiting for my vagcom to get here from my dad's place, so cannot scan it yet. Here are possibles.
1. Coil Pack (not year/part number of recall at least I don't think. What part number was under recall)
2. Issue with a vacuum hose ("L" shaped) on the top of the intake manifold.
3. Ignition control unit.
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I finally decided to buy a VAIS MML to add iphone/USB capability to my 06 GX. I read somewhere that this device gets rid of/disables the "I agree" button and enables use of NAV while in motion Is this true?
I really want to use my NAV while in motion. I personally don't want to enter the destination while driving however at least allow my passenger to do such. Is there a way if the above does not work. The new lockpic at coastel is out of stock and they don't know when will they get the new and improved one. Is there something that I can use? I don't mind splicing wires and installing some switch to temporarily allow me the use of NAV.
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My 1999 GLS Wagon died on me at a stop light. The motor turns but won't start. Replaced fuel pump, filter, fuse, and relay on advice from a few friends. Still no go. Another friend recommended I check the crank sensor.
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Today I noticed a wet carpet in my wagon(floor behind driver seat) and I know that my bro washed it for me last week, so how it got wet. He takes really good care of our cars and he's confused also. I just got back from a long trip. BTW it is water, and not coolant.
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I have an '08 Lux wagon with rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights. When I spray the windshield with washer fluid, the wipers don't come on to wipe it away. This occurred today, and the wipers would not activate no matter what position I put the control stalk in. Then, after a few seconds, they came on and cleared the windshield. I have not noticed any other issues with the wipers. What might be going on here?
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