My 04 passat 1.8t is overheating intermittently when it is hot outside, I have replace waterpump, thermostat and fan clutch recently what else should I be looking at...
View 2 Replies2002 LS V8 3.9 201k miles.
For the second time in about 4 months, the engine tried to overheat. I quickly turned on the heat to cool it down and as before, the engine temperature went to back to normal. I tuned the heat off and it drove just fine.
The thermostat and all that plastic housing around it was replaced about 6 months ago. There is plenty of coolant and no leaks.
Our Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
I have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
My 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
View 2 RepliesI've figured out why my car has been overheating lately, the fans aren't running at all! How do I get the front end off and check things out, is there a fuse diagram for the B6...
View 16 Repliesi just did a new timing belt water pump kit on a 2001 1.8t (aug engine code) the new pump has a metal impeller. i ran it in the drive way for mots of an hour off and on. figured it was good. took it for a drive and at 5 miles it overheated. Temp Went straight to 260 and stop light came on. coolant could be heard boiling in the system. when i let it idle and ran the heater i got the temp to go back down to 190. but after idling for couple minutes it started going back up. I don't think the stat is bad considering that the heater works which shows that the system is flowing.
View 5 RepliesI have a question regarding a overheating problem I have with my 99GLS V6. I had the dealer do a timing belt, water pump, thermostat etc on my Passat about a year ago. I also have coolant leak in the metal pipes under my intake, which I haven't had a chance to tend to yet. I noticed recently that my car overheats and there was alot of pressure built up in the hoses. If I remember correctly, the thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. So I am wondering because of the leak, what's the chances that my thermostat could have failed in the closed position? I'm hoping its just air in the system and lack of coolant is causing this. It's been more than a year so I'll have to cough up the dough for this one.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8t with 90,000 miles on it. I have it serviced for new Timing belt and water pump (metal impeller, according to the shop) 3 months ago at this shop. The overheating problems never went away. The problem is that it overheating at heavy traffic or idle after a while or after heavily drive, but it cools off quickly when I rev up the engine a little bit, or after getting out of traffic again.
I have another shop diagnosed, they first told me the cooling system is leaking and may trapped air inside so they did replace thermostat, coolant housing assembly, flange seal, pipe sealing o-ring. they re-test and turn out there is no coolant flow and suggest that is it the water pump that fail and ask me to go back to the original shop for the Water Pump warranty. Additionally, they flow test radiator and its fine.
I did return the car back to the original shop and they tested and said the heater core is clogged with debris and that would cause the overheating. They asked me to replace the whole heater core that would cost $1500. But I know for the fact that I have heating in the car and it is hot!
Is there any other reason than what have been replaced or tested (thermostat, radiator, air trap, new coolant)? I think it could be the aux cooling fan since its never turn on when overheating, only when AC is turn on, is it supposed to work this way? Spent too much on this car and hopelessly the problems went away but it's not.
My 01 passat is telling me to check my coolant when it's working fine and its not overheating I think it might just be a sensor because my check engine light is on and it's reading thermostat.
View 6 RepliesMy car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
View 2 Replies I was cleaning my passat the other day and I took my air filter out, however I didn't disconnect the wires and hoses on top of the box, I just raised the top cover up and pulled the filter out and cleaned it and checked it and put it back in, I also took out the cabin filter out and cleaned it and put it back in too, then I started the car and took it for a ride and the car started over heating, it keeps giving me STOP CHECK COOLANT warning and the temperature rises all the way to max RED.
I check the coolant level is at level and the radiator fans are spinning, however I noticed the lower hose that goes from reservoir to the radiator is cooler than the other hoses, what could be the problem? The water in the reservoir is hot too, could this be from a faulty thermostat? a sensor? or somewhere I read there is a fuse somewhere in the engine bay? I'm not too familiar with these 1.8t engines, the temp sensor was acting funny before too like sometimes it would go all the way to zero and stay there and go up and go down to zero and then raise, which I think there might be a bad connection or bad sensor.
I forgot to add the car is a 2003 1.8T.
Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
View 9 RepliesYesterday my car gave me a "STOP" alert on the display screen along with the error light for overheating (the red thermometer). But I had only driven a couple of blocks on a cold engine and the temperature gauge was dead cold. I opened the hood and everything was still there (nothing visible or smellable that looked like a problem) and found that I was able to restart the car and drive to work normally.
Same thing leaving work. The rest of the night the car was fine afterwards (those were engine restarts on a warm engine). I added a quart of water to the coolant and it seems to be okay today. The car has never gone over 190 on the temperature gauge, even driving in the desert or mountains with a/c on.
So that's my problem and possible solution. I was really surprised that the car was telling me to add a quart of water with the urgent "STOP" message. I thought that message was reserved for situations when the engine needed to be shut down immediately.
My mechanic looked at it last night and didn't find anything with the stored error messages that was useful.
I have in the last 5000 miles had the timing belt changed and at same time the usual other item - water pump, Thermostat etc,, Engine has 155k on it.
I have had overheating issues that I thought was related to the viscous fan clutch and replaced that (it was bad) and the issue of overheating now just take longer to happen.
I have bled the coolant system and have good hot air out with heater - engine warms up within 1/2 mile of house. I am running right now Prestome all color antifreeze as it was overheating and and loosing liquid as a result.
In trouble shooting yesterday I find that when it now overheats it is leaking at the heater hose on drivers side of heater box. I have repositioned hose and clamp after bleeding it and it still overheats and with pressure build up leaks at this location - this happens when moving or when stationary.
With heat coming from heater box (both hoses get hot) and both fans working would this be bad thermostat? (again have heat) or a bad water pump?
1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
I have a 2002 1.8t. The headlights have been going off and on intermittently for a little while now. I thought I fixed the drivers side but I guess I did not. It seemed there was a problem with the headlight socket so I took it apart and put electrical tape around the worn areas and put it back. It held up ok for a little while but would continue to go out. If I wiggle it comes back on. Then the passenger side started doing the same thing. I am wondering if a new wiring harness will fix the problem or could the problem be beyond that.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 1.8T passat that had the engine rebuilt apprx. 16K mi. ago (didn't find out until after I bought the car). After doing an oil change, they day I brought it home, and using a synthetic (Mobil-1 5w-30) the oil light started to come on intermittently. I took it to the shop and had the oil pump replaced, and a couple of day's later it came on again. I took it back to the shop and had the oil pressure sending unit replaced and a day later it came on again. When the light comes on it only stays on for about 5 seconds and goes out. I feel like I'm chasing a ghost. The engine is not making any noise and seems to run o.k.
View 1 RepliesI'm having trouble getting my 2002 vw passat 1.8 started. it cranks over no problem but, it's not getting fuel or spark. the fuel pump relay clicks when it cranks but no fuel comes out of the line I disconected. the car has been sitting for about 2 months with a dead battery but it ran fine before that. I have checked all the fuses and tested the fuel pump relay with a 9v. the fuel gauge is working but the radio doesn't turn on(stock monsoon head unit) the car has 122k on it and I am completly stumped, I'm going to drop the tank tomorrow to see if it is the fuel pump.
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