Passat (B5) :: 2003 W8 Slightly Bumpy Idle
Mar 28, 2007
My '03 W8 with 22,000 miles on it has had a slightly bumpy idle since I got it, the dealer has told me that this is not a big deal. This afternoon, however, I noticed that the idle has suddenly become much rougher, though it has not thrown a CEL. The idle is noticably rough at speeds below 10 mph and while it is fully stopped (in Drive, Neutral, and Park). I just picked my car up from the dealer this afternoon after it had a window control module replaced, and now it looks like I am going to have to go back to the dealer. I know that they are going to give me the run around and try and convince me that nothing is wrong with my car, but the idle is rough enough to shake the whole car and it sounds as if there is a new (or louder) noise coming from under the hood (other than the valvetrain noise). I suspect that this might be the clogged oil screen issue, but I really don't know what to do.
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When driving my 2006 F150 it drives real smooth until I hit 50, then it feels like I'm driving on a slightly bumpy road, once I hit 55, smooths out again. Only drives strange at 50 mph. Other speeds smooth as glass.
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When I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
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My 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
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When idle, and especially when cold, my R engine tends to do some popping, I can see the RPM drop slightly when this happens and can also hear and feel it in the car and from the engine and exhaust. This only happens when idle, I have no other issues, no drop in performance and no CEL.
It actually has done this for a while now but barely noticeable. Now since 2 weeks it has gone worse to the level of being annoying. What this may be ? Injectors maybe ?
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Is it possible to slightly raise the Idle speed of our R32s?
And if so, how is it done?
Is there a procedure with Vagcom?
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So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
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I changed all of the brakes on her car yesterday, test drove it, everything was great. Put close to 100 miles on it w/ no issues. Therefore, I don't think it's anything I did.on her way to work, the CEL came on. The car has a rough-ish idle, and jerks slightly in low RPM. I went to Pep Boys and got it read. it threw 8 codes:
P0171
P1130
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0442
From what i've read, the p0171 is the system is running too lean and p0442 is a leak somewhere. The 300s are cyl misfires.I don't want to go replacing every conceivable part. What these codes mean in conjunction?
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My check engine light came on around 2 weeks ago, had the code checked, it read P0302. Noticed it started to hesitate a little bit and would jump slightly when idle. About a week after that I had a friend, (who used to be a mechanic at Lexus and for the Army) switch the coil on cylinder 2 to 3, then the code moved to the 3 cylinders. The next day the CEL started flashing this time, checked the code again and it was back to P0302, switched all the sparks plugs.
CEL was cleared and hasn't come back but I know something is wrong..but the car still loses powers when driving and jerks/misfires when the car is first started up but after it runs for about 5 mins or so, it doesn't do it anymore while sitting idle. I have a rental car right now and will take it soon, just really swamped with work. I'm just fearing the worst until I get time to get it into a mechanic.. and just hoping to hear something less dreadful than a repair... that's why I did the minor things first, my friend thinks it may be a more serious issue. The report from AutoZone (the second time I got the code scanned) said this. But this is not 100% accurate correct?
Vacuum Leak on Engine, Probable Cause, Ignition system fault, Fuel Injector Fault, Engine Mechanical condition
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I have a 14 GT base with manual and I've been noticing at idle (sitting at stop lights...foot on or off brake and or clutch...in or out of gear) it has a bit of a rough idle or stumble during the first mile or two...then its fine. It doesn't feel like it will stall and if I tap the gas I do not notice any difference in throttle response. RPM needle stays steady... is the just something that is normal? It doesn't bother me a lot... just noticeable. All that aside, except the occasional lifter noise at cold start (not always...which is odd) all is good.
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So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
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This is my first new car, but I am assuming the idle should be pretty smooth. I feel my idle and it feels sort of rough. Almost like there is a slight misfire but not that intense.
One more question, car burning oil?
@ 7500 miles I was down a little more than a quart and now @ 14,100 I am down almost a quart. That is slightly alarming.
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Owner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car with about 350,000 miles on it. This morning I sensed a slightly rough idle when I started it up and let it sit in the driveway. While idling I plugged in a scan tool and after a few minutes it showed a P0306, a misfire in cylinder 6. I know there could be a few causes of this but my past experience has been a bad ignition coil (this car has the coils on each plug).
Over the years I've had 3 coils go bad, all giving the same rough idle symptom and P030x, where x was the cylinder number. Replacing the coils solved the problem each time.
So this morning I assumed it would probably be the same. On my way to the auto parts store (4 miles), I monitored the computer, it kept throwing a P0306 (cylinder 6) and I kept clearing the code. About 2 blocks from the store, the car seemed to be running a bit rougher. When I pulled into the lot, I got a P0307 code (and no P0306). Hmm. Well, I bought a new coil and replaced coil 6. I then sat in the lot and idled it and after a few minutes it threw the P0307 again. I cleared it a few times and it came back.
I assumed there was about 0 chance that a second coil could go out within minutes of another (assumption from a car tinkerer, not a professional), so rather than buying another coil, I drove it home to do some further testing. On the way home, it kept throwing the P0307 and nothing about P0306.
So at home, I swapped coil 7 and 5, idled it for a few minutes, and, sure enough, it threw a P0305 (the problem had moved to cylinder 5, following the coil). This indicates to me that I had 2 bad coils?!?
So my question is whether it's possible, or even common, to lose two coils at virtually the same time. I should also point out that before today I did not notice rough idling and there were no computer codes set. I also thought maybe it's possibly a problem developing with an ignition module (but I'm not sure if my car even has one).
Anyway, it was late and I have not replaced the second coil. I did do a couple other tests. I measured the resistance on the primary of the new coil, as well as 5, 6, and 7 coils. They were all close to 0 ohms. The resistance of the secondary ranged between 5k and 8k depending on the coil. Out of curiosity, I also did a final swap of the original coil 6 with the "faulty" coil 7 now in 5 (follow me?) and it still throws a P0305, indicating both the old 6 and old 7 coils are, indeed bad. Another note is that both "bad" coils are about the same age (maybe 150k-200k miles on each), so they're not newer ones.
Does this all make sense? Should I go ahead and replace the other coil and see what happens, or should I check something else?
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A couple of days ago (Friday, Sept 14th), I noticed my 98 V8 5.0 liter Mountaineer was idling rough. I had the codes pulled and got P1401, P0455 and P0308. I did find a vacuum leak and fixed it (changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was in there). I also replaced all the plugs (based on the P0308 misfire). I cleared the codes after that with a neg battery pull.
I'm still running slightly rough at idle, but not as bad. However, I have found that when I get up to about 45MPH (1500 RPMs) I started to get a worrisome shaking/ vibration. It's difficult to tell where it is coming from. If I let off the gas, or give it more and go up to about 50 mph, the shaking stops. It is only when I'm pressing the pedal in this range (like it is having trouble switching gears, perhaps?). Over the past two days of driving it and testing, I have been to autozone and had the codes checked. Nothing comes up, and no CEL.
I just had a new trans put on about 6 months ago. The only thing that preceded this issue was I got an oil change the day before this started at a place I don't normally go to (unlikely, but since they didn't write the type of oil they used on my window tag, I figured I'd mention it). I've read some suggest it to be a tire issue; but that strokes me as odd, since the shaking only happens when applying gas.
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I bought a '05 F-150 with a 5.4 with 112k miles on it a few months ago. It had been sold from an auction, looked really clean, and a good price. Not long afterward it started having issues with running rough at idle. That's when I found this forum and began reading. Tried different things but it only got worse and finally had a shop look at it. Cam phasers were not doing well. Not a cheap fix but more involved engine work than I had ever done so I had them do the work.
It ran fine for a few days and then the idle rumble came back slightly and the check engine light (CEL) came on. I read the code and it came back with a number that indicated air flow was an issue. Internet search said to clean the throttle body. Some threads on this site also said do the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor while I was at it. Much has changed since I used to work on cars as a kid. Everything has it own cleaner. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (it was beyond filthy) and a toothbrush. Put it all back together (started late and it was dark by now) and took it for a quick run to see how it had improved. Instead of smooth, it started running even rougher, and within 100 yards went into fail safe mode. Now my mood is getting darker. Park it and go inside to watch the Aggies in their bowl game.
Good game but the truck is still running rough and I am losing confidence in my ability to do simpler things on it. I get up the next day and run codes on it. It had three codes all pertaining to air flow or the throttle position. I am thinking I screwed up the throttle setting somehow when cleaning or maybe only put the MAF sensor in upside down (that seemed unlikely since the screws only seemed to line up in one orientation). So I open the hood to check the MAF sensor just in case and find to my embarrassment that, in the dark, I failed to plug the MAF sensor back in. The problem was a loose screw holding the tools. I plug the sensor cable onto the sensor and take it for a ride. It runs great. Life is good. MPG is climbing higher on the onboard display. My confidence is returning even after humbling mistakes. After everything, I still love this truck.
So, now for the tune-up advice. The truck runs well but still rumbles slightly. Based upon everything, I believe it was well cleaned before it sold but maybe not fully serviced. Spark plugs were possibly never done. I intend to do a tune-up on it but do not know what has already been done so I'll assume almost nothing. The air filter looks brand new. The serpentine belt has nicks so that will be on the list. I am thinking of changing the following:
Spark plugs
Spark plug boots
fuel filter
serpentine belt
PCV valve
Oil was changed when the cam phaser work was done. So the advice really boils down to a question:
Is there anything else I should consider changing or doing or cleaning? I have not worked on cars much in the last 30 years but am beginning to enjoy it again.
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