Passat (B5) :: 2003 W8 Engine Light On And Car Just Bogged Down Hard When Coasting In Neutral
Jul 21, 2011
So I was driving my car about a week ago when it decided to "die" on me for about 2 seconds. I was coasting in neutral (tiptronic) to a red light when the car's engine light popped on and the car just bogged down hard. I threw the car into drive and the problem went away immediately. I haven't had the problem since then, but I'm also not allowing the car to coast in neutral anymore.
I was thinking about bringing the car in to have them read the computer but is this something that they would be able to trace back or would I be out the 90 bucks for nothing? I have absolutely no clue what this could be.
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Just got the pickup a month ago and it is kinda hard starting, has no power until it warms up then it has good power. Today I was driving and it just bogged down more and more until it just died. Would not restart. No master with the multi meter but set it on 200 v and tested the Ficm and it was running between 48 and 48.1 v but one time while cranking it dipped down to 37 fir just a split second. When it does run it would puff white smoke and motor would run real rough. Can't get over 1500 Rpms when it is cold like it is starving. Think it is the Ficm?
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Does coasting in neutral (to save fuel) cause any damage or wear when shifting the gear lever into Drive while moving?
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I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
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I'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
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This problem has plagued my '85 Tbird Turbo Coupe for about a month. When I put my car in neutral while moving, the RPMs fall significantly below idle and then the engine usually catches itself and after about 5-10 seconds idles normally. If I do this at high speed (say 40 mph +), the RPMs fall to the point where the engine stalls and dies. If I do it at 25-40 mph, it will go down about 200-500 RPMs and then catch itself. If I do it at 15-20 mph, it will be just barely noticeable, and anything slower than that I can't notice it. It will also do this to some extent when I'm stopped if I rev the engine up really high and let it off, but it is far less noticeable. This car has had extensive work done to it in the past 6 months.
Most recently, I had the fuel injectors replaced, throttle body cleaned, IAC valve cleaned, and the vehicle searched for vacuum leaks. (most of that in search of the solution to this problem as well as to improve the general performance of the vehicle. A week before that, I also had a new fuel tank, fuel pump, and fuel filter installed. I've got a very small leak on the back of my muffler, no cat, and no other exhaust leaks I can find. I am getting a lot of black carbon out of the exhaust, but I have been running some fuel system cleaner through it. Also, the car sat for like 8 years before I got it, and the original cat became clogged and really gunked stuff up. I had all of the upper engine gaskets replaced, as much as we could get to cleaned internally, and the cat cut off at that point. Timing is very close to 10btdc. Could be 9.5, but just about right there. I double checked, no vacuum leaks that I could find with a can of carb cleaner. I tried checking for codes, but it's not even throwing me a confirmation code or anything, which is odd. But, my connector was pretty gummed up (I did clean it as good as I could) and just about anything wiring is suspect. I used two engine code readers that had previously been used on the car. Other than this, the car has plenty of power and runs fine down the road.
Here's the master list of what I've replaced in the past 6mo:
FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Pump (twice) Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Tank Fuel Injectors
ASSORTED FILTERS Fuel Filter (twice) Air Filter Oil Filter (several times) Oil Filler Cap PCV Valve
HOSES/COOLANT SYSTEM Nearly every Vacuum Hose Every Coolant Hose Heater Core (twice)
SENSORS AND COMPUTER STUFF Engine Control Module (ECM) Vane Air Meter (VAM) Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Oxygen Sensor
STARTING SYSTEM/ELECTRIC/Misc. Spark Plugs and Wires (Motorcraft) Starter Solenoid Coil Pack Distributor
TFI Module Distributor Cap and Rotor Battery Timing Belt
EEC Relay Ignition Switch Tires Front Brakes Brake Master Cylinder (had previously been damaged) Front tie-bars Every gasket from the head up.
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I have a 2002 Audi a6 Quattro 2.7t. Recently my fiancée filled up my gas tank and when he did this he continued to pump fuel into the tank even though the automatic shut off trigger had released. In doing so he said he filled it to the point that it was just about to spill out. The first 1/8 of a tank the car drove like normal. Then all of a sudden i very very briefly could smell an odor of rotten eggs. The following morning my car had loss of power to the point that i parked it. My fiancée was reading about how to fill the tank properly and when he did he went ahead and released the gas cap and at that point he said he heard a bubbling noise come from the tank. My car is drivable now but not up to par. It slightly sputters (bogged) at take off still. What else it could be ?
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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I got a brand new 2014 prius c(one) about two weeks ago now and it feels like it "hard shifts" when coasting from 43mph-40mph. The dealership says its normal, they said that it is just the engine switching.
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So lifted my Manual 1.8t B5 onto jack stands to start some serious work on it. Found that lower rear control arm had gone "significantly bad" and the right drive axle shaft had pulled out of the outer CV joint. Needed to warm up the oil before draining it so put the car in neutral and started the engine. Went outside to check on something and WOAH, the right drive axle that had come apart from the CV joint was slowly turning WHILE IN NEUTRAL. The left drive axle that is still attached to the outer CV joint and with the tire attached but off the ground is standing still.
I can grab that spinning drive shaft and it stops but I can still feel it vibrating. Let me reiterate, the left side is doing nothing and the right side spins while in neutral.
Is this normal? This doesn't seem possible. Is it just that there is insufficient friction without the outer CV joint to keep it from spinning, ie. even though in neutral there is sufficient friction on the flywheel from the clutch plate to give torque on the driveshaft. But what I don't understand is how the right one can turn like that while the left one doesn't. It would seem that something else is going on.
I guess a car's one tire can be spinning on ice while the other does not. It is just strange that this is happening in neutral.
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I purchased this 2001 Passat with 138,000 miles on it approximately 4 months ago. Since the purchase I have had the timing belt, water pump and tensioner belt replaced, also replaced the valve cover gasket, plugs, plug wires, back brakes, back rotors, bushings and linkage in sway bar. Now it is making a whining noise when accelerating and when the engine is revved while in neutral. The power steering fluid is between min and max. What this could possibly be? I am about at my end with this car!!!
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I bought a 2003 Passat used from a after market dealer when it came off lease. Within a few days the engine light came on. I took it back to the dealer's mechanic, and he just hooked it up to the diagnostic meter and cleared the code and the light when off. He told me not to worry about it - I probably didn't close the gas tank cap right.
Sure enough two days later - it came back on - and I took it back. The mechanic had it in his shop for 6 hours. I picked it up, and now there is no light at all. Its the only light that has been affected.
The engine light does not even come on when you first turn the key in the ignition. I think the mechanic has purposefully did something to either the fuses or the wiring. [URL]
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I have a 2003 W8 and the check engine light came on today for the cam b sensor... The car has had no problems and drives fine, I do not quite get why all the sudden it is on, and before I bought the car, 2000 miles ago the cam sensor was replaced for inspection, and I drove it for 1000 miles, and now the mil is on and it is running a little ruff... Where exactly on the head is it located? which head would have cam b sensor? I really do not think it is bad again.
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I have a 2006 suzuki forenza (automatic) with about 90,000 miles on it. Five times this summer, it seems to get "stuck" between reverse/ neutral (both letters are displayed on dashboard) and the check engine light goes on. I turn the car off/on and the the problem seems to resolve. The check engine light stays on for about 24 hours. The car drives "fine" (its a relative term, has some other quirks) for another 2-4 weeks until it happens again. My question is: is this a serious problem or can I just ignore it?
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I have about 75K on my 03 1.8t on started having the check engine light coming on in the last few months. The dealers diagnosis was that I wasn't tightening the gas cap enough but I don't believe that because I do at least 3-5 clicks when I close it. I'm a bit baffled. After the last time I filled up at the gas station, I noticed the cap was loose so I've ordered another cap thinking the last one has lost its ability to seal properly...
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I have a 2003 T&C 3.6L with tow package, purchased used (privately) with 25K miles in 2006. Since I have owned it, it will occasionally not go into any gear when first started after sitting at least overnight- basically stays in neutral until engine is revved to about 2500 RPM. You can rev it in neutral or while it's in gear. This always works, and the transmission will then work fine until another overnight stay. I have had the transmission serviced 3-4 times (once when it first happened, and then at recommended intervals. The car now has 96K on it, and it has been happening less frequently (in fact, it hasn't occurred in about two weeks). I have discussed this with two Chrysler dealers, and have left it overnight twice, but of course it didn't repeat at the dealer. I haven't been able to correlate when it happens with anything except: it seems to occur more frequently when garaged in Pittsburgh than when sitting outside in Myrtle Beach (I spend time in both places).
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My daughter has a 2003 Passat Turbo. Two weeks ago it started to run like crap with a check engine light on. I pulled the codes and it said multiple misfires. My buddy owns his own shop and said bring it down. He pulled the plugs and the spark plug holes were filled with oil. He changed the valve cover gaskets and replaced the plugs. Still ran rough with low fuel pressure so he replace the fuel pump and injectors. Still runs rough, when he pulled the air intake off there was oil in it. Could this have happened do to the valve cover gasket? The codes still read misfires. He said the turbo was full of oil also. Could the turbo be bad causing it to run like crap? Can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to go to the dealer.
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I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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I bought a 2003 Vw Gti 1.8t ... What to do or look for when something goes wrong . About a two months after driving it, it won't idle and it shuts off while in Neutral . I've done my research and i believe he didn't install the BOV in right, only bc it is not recirculates the air. Make sense? Is there ANYTHING i can do so it will run better and idle?
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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We have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
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