I just got my 2003 passat 1.8T 5 speed. i noticed that every time i come up to 1500 to 3000 rmp in 3rd gear the clutch or what ever that is hesitates to spin. I am wondering what could it be? and the other day when i was driving in the freeway i noticed that when ever i get to 78-80mph i feel or the car starts to vibrate. does my car needs alignment?
View 1 RepliesWhen I'm driving and the clutch is slipping a bit ( i.e. starting from a stop) I feel very noticeable vibration. Is that a sign the clutch is starting to do? I feel like a year ago it was smoother action, and I barely had to give it gas to get started ( could start with clutch action mostly).
View 9 RepliesHow can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
View 9 RepliesOn my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
View 2 RepliesWondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.
View 2 RepliesI just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesI have a vibration while driving around 60-70mph.. it feels like there's a misfire, but i'm not sure cause i dont have any faults showing. This problem started when i replaced my spark plugs.
View 12 RepliesI have a vibration coming from what seems to be the right front of the car when I exceed 50mph. It doesn't matter what type of road it is (concrete vs. asphalt) and it doesn't go away.
The vibration has a pattern to it, the best I can describe it is a cycle (wrrr----wrrr----wrr). My wheels are 18s with OEM Pirellis, car is a 3.6l sport wagon. I have never owned a car with this brand so I cannot rule out the tire. Naturally the dealer hears the noise but they say nothing is wrong with the car.
What I can do to make it go away. This noise distracts me form the rattles the dash, hatch and pillar make.
I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
View 19 RepliesI have a vibration problem on my 2006 passat. while driving, i noticed that there is a knocking/rattling vibration on my gas pedals and sometimes i feel it inside the car during 60 mph at round 2000 RPM. I have been trying to figure it out but i couldn't seem to find the problem. Also, I hear a metallic knocking noise when i start my engine.
View 2 RepliesI have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 oldmobile Intrique, with the 3.5L northstar engine. While driving down the road the car will hesitate while the rpm's will decrese for a second and go back to where it was before, the speed odometer will jump up and go back down. the service will flash on and off. The car almost acts like it dies for a second but keeps on going. I have the codes checked and their are no codes in the computer.
View 14 RepliesMy wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 RepliesMy 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue (Automatic) has 142,000 miles on it. Our car has been hesitating when I drive on occasion. It does it randomly, it was once or twice a month, now it's about 3 or 4 times a week. I can be either trying to accelerate from a stop or already going 50 and trying to speed up to 65 or something and it won't go. The RPM gauge will fly up to 3500 and my MPH gauge will not move.
When it does this the "Check Engine Soon" light flashes, but as soon as the episode is over, shuts off. It does it anytime of day, whether it's the first time started for the day, or been running for hours. In recent months we've replaced the battery, the starter, the timing belt, recently the fuel pump as well as a few O rings. We are tired of fixing this car and not having this problem taken care of. Our mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong.
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Honda Element sometimes generates a vibration that feels just like driving down a washboard dirt road. You know one that the ridges are very close together. This only happens around 40 MPH with a load on the engine. At first I thought it was a wheel, tire or suspension issue. But I can make it stop instantly by pushing or releasing the gas pedal. So this leads me to think it is transmission related. This is a automatic. I would like to see the car sometime but would not feel right about passing on this problem without knowing the cost to fix it. Stumped in Seattle.
View 5 RepliesSo I changed out my front brakes and rotors on my 03 camry le, and I noticed the driver side pads are more worn out than the passenger side. Also when im driving highway and coming off I notice some vibration in the brake pedal, its not all the time though. Do you think my caliper is partially sticking? I can manually push the piston on the caliper piston using a clamp.
View 4 RepliesA little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?