Passat (B5) :: 2003 V6 Pinging When Warm Under Normal Load
Aug 13, 2007
I have a very annoying problem with my new (to me) 2003 Passat, when warm it tends to ping under what i would consider normal load, it's more apparent after it changes gear (auto) and also if you are traveling down the road you give the gas an extra tickle.
It soon shuts up but pinging is not a good thing any time. The car has 45000 miles so is barely broken in.... It also suffers from what i consider to be a lazy transmission which tends to make it a little worse.
I am using the recommended super grade of fuel and have tried different fuels to see if it is biased.
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So we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
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I know I have a clogged oil cooler and normally I'm not home much during the summer months to know how it does during the summer. The outside temperature is around 95*, but the thermostat on the Ex is reading from 102 to 112, and it actually read 122 yesterday. Also, with the hot weather, I'm not noticing the fan kicking on under normal driving without a load. The AC is working, but it's not the ice cold AC I'm use to and does get better while cruising down the highway.
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Test drove an '03 Passat GL today for about 20-30 minutes. Seemed to drive well. Stomped the accelerator and brake a couple times, etc, etc. After a more sedate trip back I looked it over, checking fluid conditions, leaks and such. Looks like all fluids have been recently changed . I did notice when pulling the oil dip stick and opening the oil filler a bit of light colored smoke or steam
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My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
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First noticed it several minutes after I shut the car off, then realized it was making the same noise while running.
I have never heard anything quite like this, including my A4 which runs much hotter than the Passat. Sounds like the exhaust is expanding and contracting...not sure why it would do that.
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Having issues with 00 lincoln ls not reaching normal operating temp.
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2007 Camry V6: how miles to warm up to reach normal temp?
When i start cold (30 F ) it take at least 5 miles (in town) to reach the ''ALMOST'' 9 O CLOCK mark on the temp gauge or 185 F on my ULTRAGAUGE connect to the OBDII connector.
At 20F outside temp or less : i plug the block heater (cartridge type in the block (not coolant) )
Then when i start the car the TEMP on Ultragauge is 60F after 2 hours on 110 Volts.
Then go to city..........and take the same 5 miles to reach 185F. So same time.
My Question: is it NORMAL that it take at least 5 miles to warm up at 185F. Is my thermostat OK because it is a big (long) job to replace myself and it is cold outside .
Q.: 2 : When i stop the car about 25 minutes (20F outside temp)) the temp is down down below the first white mark on car gauge....... normal or not ?: (if not :maybe the radiator pressure cap?) Never had a japanese car.......my caddy was at normal temp before 5 miles...
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I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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is it possible to upgrade the wastegate so that it makes that pinging noise, not bov noise wastegate noise.
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I took my car into the dealer to have them check out the loud knocking/pinging sound from the engine. First time, they told me that it was normal. It bugged the heck out of me so I took it in for the second time. Note: I was given a loaner to drive and it happened to be another 06 Passat 2.0T and this one sounded fine to me. The lead tech did kind of agree that it was a bit loud. So, they replaced a new fuel pump and did an oil change....?? But that of course didn't fix the issue. The noise is so loud that I can hear it inside the car w/ windows up when I'm sitting in traffic or at the light. Also at night, I can hear it when I'm standing about 15 or 20 yrds away from the front of the car.
I realize that the engines will have some sort of knocking sound (my 330i does that), but shouldn't be this loud. So, does this sound normal? BTW, the dealer told me that they contacted VW engineers and was told that it was perfectly normal. I don't really buy that!! I've only had this car for almost a month (took advantage of the CPO w/ 2.9% fin) and I don't want to have to deal with this if this seems to be an issue. I guess who does, huh?
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I have a 99 1.8T Passat (with automatic) and I hear it pinging slightly here and there when it is warm outside. I use name-brand premium gas every time. The spark plugs are fairly new and the temperature gauge consistently shows that it runs at 190 degrees F. I have 103,000 miles and it runs fine otherwise. It doesn't ping all the time, but does so intermittently when accelerating at fairly low RPM. I change the oil every 4,000 miles religiously and just switched to synthetic oil. The "check engine" light is not on and it easily passed the California smog check just a month ago. What it might be? Could it just be a little carbon buildup due to age?
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I have a '12 Focus and for no apparent reason the A/C will turn off and warm air enters the car for 1-3 minutes and then returns to normal cold A/C air. It doesn't matter if it's on "max A/C" which will circulate the air inside the car or just the coldest setting on the A/C, high fan, low fan, it just happens. What usually happens is that I'm driving 40 or 45, then have to slow down (stoplight, etc.) and speed up again, during the slow down is when the A/C turns off and warm air enters the car. As soon as I'm driving 45 again for a minute it usually kicks back to cold air. OR, while driving on the freeway at 60 - 70mph after about 15-20 minutes it all of a sudden stops cooling and I get warm air in the car. It's been checked by 2 different dealers already 4 times and they never found anything wrong with the A/C System. It did have an actual leak a few weeks ago and that got repaired but it still has this mysterious behavior.
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I have a 1997 F-150 4.6. I have a cel and a heavy pinging that seems to get better the colder the outside temp is. If I unhook battery , the rehook the cel is gone for a day or so and the pinging is much less, but in a day or so it comes back on and condition worsens.
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My wife's brother has a '97 F150 w/4.6L/automatic trans/4x4-OFF ROAD package. It's a standard cab, short bed (fleetside) truck.
It has 126k miles and he is METICULOUS about routine/periodic maintenance. He's owned it since new, has changed the plugs twice.
Is this a common issue with the '97 4.6L? He says he has tried using premium fuel to determine if it makes a difference. He said it worked but it still pings, just not as bad.
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I just picked up a 1999 F150 5.4 with around 19k miles on it. Truck is in mint condition, stored in a heated garage since new. Before we made the deal I checked everything out pretty well including checking all the fluids, test drive, other usual stuff and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. However, today I went for a short ride with the windows down I noticed a random pinging noise from under the truck. At first I thought it was a few small rocks bouncing off something metal under the truck, however it continued to do it randomly for the next 5 minutes. I would say I hear a ping every 15-20 seconds randomly. Doesn't matter if it's idling or under load, happens about the same either way. Aside from this, truck starts and rungs great and no error or warning lights have kicked on.
When I got home I started the truck back up and climbed under to see what it was. I found that the noise is coming from the exhaust system, mostly heard at the catalytic convertor. It resembles the metal expanding kind of ping, but I think its actually originating at the engine and the noise is just carrying through the exhaust system. I then went back to the engine bay and could hear the same random ping, just much quieter. I don't know the condition of the fuel, but based on the low miles I haven't ruled out a bad tank of gas. Only other issue with the truck is there is a bit of rust and corrosion on the inside of the exhaust tips and up into the exhaust pipe. They are still shiny and silver on the outside, just a little rust buildup on the interior of the exhaust. Hoping it's just the last 1' or so that is rusted
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Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
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My 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
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