Passat (B5) :: 2003 V6 GLS Would Not Start Without Jiggling Ignition Switch Around
Dec 2, 2012
This problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
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well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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I'm not sure what gear is associated with the speed, but lately I've noticed that whenever I hit the 30-45mph speeds I'll start to feel a whole bunch of jigglin' going on with the steering wheel and even through the gas pedal. Once I break out of 45+ it goes away and usually only returns when I'm approaching 80mph or so.
This is coming from a 2007 2.0T.
Could it be something as simple as needing the tires rotated/balanced/aligned? I'm hoping thats all it is. Not really that bothersome but it certainly doesn't make for a smooth ride. I could really tell yesterday when I had about half a case of Sam Adams in the back seat and when I hit 40mph man I could hear those bottles bouncing all over the place.
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I recently bought a 98 Passat with what was thought to be an ignition switch problem.. well I changed the switch today and the problem is still there.. it would start sometimes and and sometimes it won't do anything. Not even click.. and sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter isn't getting enough juice.. another weird thing is that I can start the car without pressing the clutch.(when it does start).. There is actually a couple of electrical oddities going on.. the moonroof would go up by itself randomly and the radio (after matket) doesn't save any of my presets. Every time I turn the car off the radio resets.. so I'm thinking some weird electrical problem is going on..
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I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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A few weeks ago my 2003, 2.7 cdx (150,000miles) i noticed what sounded like 2 marbles knocking together, so where the timing belt pulleys are i sprayed some wd40 and the noise went, BUT, since that the noise has got worse and now sounds like a whole bag of marbles jiggling around. really really loud.
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I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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I have a 1997 F150 that I have taken to a mechanic twice and it is still not right. I had a igination switch replaced and now when the humidity is really high
(I am Guessing), I can have the key in the house and my truck lights flash the radio is on and it sounds like it is trying to start. How hard is it to replace the igination switch myself. I believe it has a short someone in the steering column.
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I have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
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All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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Headlights work well w/ ignition switch off. High/low/passing all ok. When I turn the ignition switch on, there's a strange wheezing sound for a second.
When the ignition switch is on, there are no headlights.
What's the wheezing sound? Why does the power to the switch quit with the key on? The more I work on modern trucks, the more I like my 1968 f-250.
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