Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Stalling Out Of First Gear?
Oct 18, 2011
I am having a problem with my 03 1.8t 5 speed! about 1 month ago i had to replace my MAP sensor cuz it took a crap! ok everything was good after that i thought! car started stalling in first gear but didn't die completely! it would jerk me forward hard but wouldn't die! after first it would be fine! took it to my buddy at the dealer and said there was a code stored that dealt with the faulty sensor but wouldn't cause it to stall and then catch! of course he drove it and it didn't do it! so he cleared the code and everything been fine until today! started doing it again! don't have a clue as to what could be causing this! It didn't do this EVER before the MAP sensor only after! my buddy said the MAP sensor wouldn't cause it to do that anyway! it feels like the motor completely freezes up then frees itself! I do have a boost gauge and I am not over boosting or under boosting! no cel or blinking cel! what could be causing this?
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Our '03 Dodge Grand Caravan has been stalling sometimes in reverse and in first gear when starting to move. This usually only occurs if we hadn't yet driven it that day, or if it has completely cooled.
Put it in reverse and give it a little gas to get out of the spot, turn the wheel, and it stalls.. Park - Restart - Drive, and any attempt to press the gas normally probably results in stalling again. This presents a problem as I get to a stop sign and it stalls while in the middle of an intersection...so there is danger to this problem.
The only way I have found to somewhat thwart the problem is to ever so lightly feather the gas, and I mean I don't even push it, I tap-tap-tap it. This usually results in not stalling, but a slight lunge in acceleration.
There is a check engine light on and the code is for the emissions Evap. solenoid. Does this have anything to do with it? If not, what the heck is going on?!
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
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My fiancee, has a 2003 Passat that she loves and is having a problem that I notice but she hasn't. First start after the cars been sitting for a while makes it noticeably more difficult to take the car out of park.
I did some searching and I couldn't find the exact issue, but it seems people that cannot remove it from park at all were having issues with the brake switch or something like that. Not sure if this applies to us since we can still get it out of park.
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I have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
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I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
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The check engine light is on, all the gear indicator lights are on and acceleration is sluggish. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow, but wanted to know where I stood before talking to them. I don't really trust them. Transmission? Gear shifter?
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My car has 196,000 miles on it & recently starting loading up, stalling. May be heat related. How can I determine if it's the ECM, crank or cam position sensors? The last time it quit on me it scrolled thru "ABS out", "Trac out" & "Gear box failure". Let it sit a minute, restarted it, not a single thing shows up. I'm afraid to drive it as it appears to be getting worse. Our code reader is not giving us anything definitive to go on. Jaguar XJ8 2003....
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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I finally reinstalled my engine and transmission with a new clutch in my 1975 fiat spider. I've managed to get it started and idling nicely, but when I put it in gear, as soon as I begin to let the clutch out, it stalls. It's as though it triggers a kill switch.
Not sure if it has something to do with the clutch safety switch...? I tried jumping it in case the switch is bad, but that wasn't it. Maybe a vacuum leak/Though I would think a vac leak wouldn't let it idle and rev nicely which it does.
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
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I just had my 72 Skylark tuned up, when I start it and put it in gear it makes popping noise and stalls, I restart and let it run a for a few minutes and it will finally go. Once it is warmed up in runs great. What causes this stalling problem,? I guess I'm too old to remember.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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99 passat 1.8t with 5spd has 95k on it. 2 weeks ago my ex wifes car broke the timing belt and bent 12 valves so brought it to mechanics to get repaired and got it back seems to start up fine but when shes driving it stalls out on her. Mechanic says its something do with electronic throttle and nothing to do with his work. No check engine codes yet anyways .
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So I've got a 2000 1.8T with an automatic trans that doesn't seem to want to stay on. The car was initially stalling out after getting up to temperature in stop and go traffic but now it's having problems all the time. It doesn't want to start and the only time it wants to run is if I'm on the highway. If I slow down below 20mph the car will stall out, if I go to start it the rpms will drop and it will stutter and stall out if I can get it started.
I've already replaced the diverter valve along with dropping in a K&N filter. I'm not sure what else it could be. I'd like to change out the N75 valve but I'm not sure where its located on this car.
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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My vehicle has started to idle very rough, stuttering and almost dies at stop lights. It hesitates when accelerating, and really shakes and rattles if the AC is turned on. The check engine light and EPC lights are on. And even letting the foot off the brake in drive causes it to jerk along. I am up around 65k miles and have not had too many issues other than a fuel pump getting replaced last year. (the dealer first started replacing and charging me for many other items) I am scared to go back without trying to trouble shoot it myself.
What it could be and if there is anything I can try to correct it myself?
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My car wouldn't start earlier this week. After jumping it, it stalled out at the first stop sign. I got a new battery and it started great but it still stalled out while idling and low rpms. I gave it a tune up in hopes that it was a bad spark plug or wiring issue. It is running better but it still gets really choppy at stops or idling at a light and it still wants to or has stalled. I had disconnected the negative charge from the battery to check if it was an alternator issue but it ran fine without the battery.
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