Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Making A Lot Of Noise - Engine Fan Is Running Very Fast
Sep 12, 2008
My '03 passat w8 just started making a lot of noise which sounds like the engine fan is running very fast and blowing like mad even though my car is not warm. It started 3 nights ago and sounds like a street sweeper, which is what I thought it was until I looked around and saw there was no street sweeper to be found. When I turn the car off the noise winds down and disappears with the fan still running just making the normal amount of fan noise so I don't think the problem is the actual fan.
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My 2.4L engine is making a clanking noise while running. When I checked the oil level today, it was low by about 1.5 quarts. There's no check engine light.
Car has 74K miles now. I purchased the car two years ago with 35K miles. I have always performed regular maintenance myself. The car had its oil control valve replaced at 55K miles.
VIDEO : 2.4L Clanking Noise
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My wife bought a new 2010 Prius Hybrid. It has consistently achieved 51+ miles per gallon. She bought it in June-2010 and at the 7000 mile mark (October?) called me concerned about a noise it was making under the hood. She described it as akin to the noise a playing card made when as a child you fastened it to the spokes of a bicycle. Chattering? It lasted 15-30 seconds and went away, before engaging in reverse or forward. A trip to the dealership was fruitless, an "intermittent episode" the diagnosis.
Now, nothing since until today. Same noise again, 12,000 mile mark, goes away in same timeframe, in park. Only today, through the course of several errands, her dash MPG indicator reads 39 MPG. She is waiting as we speak in the dealer lobby as they plug into the computer hunting for fault codes, etc. Having issues, especially an indicated dropoff in MPG seemingly in conjunction with such a noise?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu 125,000 miles, 2.2 Engine that was running sluggish, noisy like needed oil (checked didn't) and check engine light was on. Took it to a repair shop and told needed an oil change, car still ran sluggish, told to drive it a day or so. Two days later, car wouldn't go over 50 mph, took it back and told needed air filter and mass air flow cleaned. After they did that, they told me the Catalytic converter needed replaced however they don't do that work. Within a week car would not run so had the cat replaced.
Car ran better but still not great. Took it to another place, spark plugs replaced, throttle body cleaned and fuel injector cleaner added to gas.Still the car ran sluggish and was making noise and check engine light was on. Took it to parts store to have code checked on check engine and said error in bank one of oxygen sensor. I replaced that, reset the light and am sure you know, it still runs bad and noisy and check engine light came back on. I am losing power on hills and big hills the engine rattles.
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Happened two times already if i press gas when turning 90 degrees. My engine stops and i have to start car again, why could this be happening?
I got misfire cylinder 4 and 6 perhaps its related however i am trying to understand dynamics of things why engine only stops under this conditions?
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I have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T manual transmission... I just purchased it...upon starting it up, it runs fine... After I have run it for a while, it gets a distinctive, constant, pretty fast ticking sound near the engine...
It's hard to pinpoint where it is coming from, but it seems to be coming from the right side of the engine or from an EGR valve?
It only makes the ticking sound AFTER it has fully warmed up and i have driven it awhile...and only at idle...if i rev up the engine, it goes away instantly...but starts again when it idles...
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I know that the injectors make a clicking/tapping noise but am I imagining the lower pitch sound here? It doesn't seem so loud all of the time but I'm sensitive and paranoid.
I have an intake too. [URL].....
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8t I was driving along when suddenly it felt like I lost 3 cylinders and the engine light was flashing. I nursed it a couple miles to a gas station and it was making a loud noise and smoking ALOT I shut it off and had it towed home.
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My mom has a 2003 pontiac montana thats making a ticking noise says its low on oil but i just changed the oil 2 and half weeks ago. Why it would be ticking?
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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Going to take a look at a 2000 v6 passat with 130k on it. They had the car serviced at Jiffy lube and now the engine makes a loud noise after running for a minute or so. The wrong oil was used. So I'm thinking the oil pump and screen are clogged up or the oil becomes to thin when warm therefore not providing proper lubrication.
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I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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My check engine lights been on forever, like every VW, but now it's blinking fast, and the car isn't running right. It's messed up AGAIN, it's running really bad, like misfiring and not making power. It's shaky feeling in the throttle and power, almost like it's going to stall but it doesn't. What the problem is?
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I have a 2004 Nissan Murano. Recently I noticed that the motor is noisy while running and idling both - no difference. I can't really hear it outside of the car, but I sure can inside. It's even worse when it's cold. Is this something to be concerned about?We took it to a local mechanic who could hear the noise, but what was causing it.
The last time we had several trips to mechanics with no answers, we wound up replacing a transfer case that went kaplooey. We had at least three mechanics on that one. No one knew why it smelled like burned oil, or leaked a little. Until it went out completely.
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On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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Vehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
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My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
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I have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne with a 4.3L engine. My speedometer is running about 10MPH fast when at freeway speed. The truck has factory rims and the tire size has not changed. What to check? I'm thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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