My friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
View 6 Replies I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
I have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
View 1 RepliesCan oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 screw 4.6 auto 116k miles that has evidence of a small coolant leak where the intake manifold joins the head. This is on the drivers side directly under the thermostat housing. The t-stat housing is dry and the hoses all appear dry. It's just wet right at the gasket where the manifold joins the head. Reservoir is still normal so it's not leaking too much just yet.
I searched this site and youtube but didn't find any other posts. Lots of problems with older trucks with composite manifolds but nothing for this one. It looks like a part of the bottom of the manifold is plastic but the entire top and where it is leaking is all aluminum.
It seems odd that this would start in the winter time just driving back and forth to work (no load). And, yes the antifreeze is good. Just wondering if this is a known issue with this truck. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets or is there some other flaw I should be concerned about?
I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
View 3 RepliesGot a CEL yesterday and it came as an EVAP - major leak... cleared the code, ran the car - HARD....nothing came back up - car runs like a champ....
View 2 RepliesMy buddy has a 2000 GLX that's been a great car, but he had an overheat situation where the car lost most all of the coolant almost instantaneously. I went over to his house to check it out, but was limited on time so I couldn't get the belly pan off and the car jacked up to thoroughly diagnose it. We filled it with distilled water and ran it so I could see where it was leaking. Seems to be gushing mostly from the back side of the engine (by the firewall) on the passenger side, but there also seems to be some leaking in the front as well.
What are the major failure points that could cause it to dump it as quickly as it's filled? Does the car have a distribution pipe like a VR that can be a major failure point? My experience is limited with the V6 engine.
New to posting to the forum but this is the first major problem I have had with my passat. It's a 97 vr6 and i have a major coolant leak above the oil pan somewhere it has already gone thru about a gallon of coolant today alone. I noticed it yesterday but it was small and i couldn't tell where it was coming from.
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
View 2 RepliesMy loaner 2014, 2.5 developed a massive fuel leak when trying to start it yesterday, and it did not start.
I had just done a short 1-mile trip and parked for 2 hrs, came out to start it and it turned over fine with no start, tried it again and smelled raw gas. Thought it flooded so I let it sit for 5 min and tried again, same result. Popped the hood and saw fuel on passenger side frame area and it was dripping a lot when I looked under it.
The car had 5400 miles on it and I had just put 1000 of those on over the week and the car was flawless. Dealer towed it and I am in another loaner while they finish my TDI. I could not see the cause and I wasn't going to trouble shoot as it was a loaner. The 2.5 has been bullet proof overall and this seemed more like a fuel line popped and not an engine issue.
Just wanted to throw an FYI out in case you get a no start and smell gas from an otherwise flawless engine. Nothing dramatic happened in this case as the engine was cold, but if happened while driving it had great potential for fire. Also, would hate to have this happen in my garage in the morning.
If I can get more details from the dealer I will post an update. This would clearly be a recall if they find defective design in failed part. I would not cry wolf on this yet, just a concern...again this car had been on the road for 5 months and 5400 miles.
Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
View 4 RepliesWell, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
I bought a 2003 F350 with the 6.0L. It had injection, EGR, and oil cooler issues. I tore into it, did the injectors, EGR delete, new oil cooler, turbo seal kit, and several other non related things. Put everything back together and when I started it, it was leaking oil at the paste of 1/2 qt and minute. I did all sorts of searching on this site and went back to work on it.
I re-installed all new gaskets and O-rings, replaced the ICP and IPR sensors. Started it back up, exact same thing. From what I can see, oil is accumulating on top of the oil cooler housing around the area the turbo oil supply connects. But, its not leaking from turbo supply, or from where the filter housing attaches. Im at a loss. Its definitely somewhere on top of the engine and running down the back, only when the engine runs.
I took my Monte in for the annual Missouri Safety Inspection. Note: I had no known problems with my 2003 Monte SS 117K Miles. After the inspection, which passed, I was informed of a variety of problems: Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, Valve Cover Gasket w/Intake replacement, Thermostat w/Intake Removal, Fuel Injector O-Rings w/Intake Removal.
My question is should I have all of this done? It's not cheap..roughly 1000 bucks. I know very little about this and I don't want to just tell my mechanic to do it without some research. Are these common problems with Monte's of this age/mileage and just part of the cost of owning this car. I am the original owner and have avoiding costly repairs/maintenance..it's been a great car.
'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
View 4 Replies