My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
B5 Passat wagon coil over installation Vibration happens during acceleration.
View 6 RepliesIf you have an intake and are under heavier acceleration, do you get any vibrations in the car while getting that growl sound?
I have the intake pipe zip tied so that it is away from the brake lines but I'm trying to figure out if the vibes are coming from just the sound frequency or something or if it's something else.
I've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
I recently bought a 2003 F150 sport Scab 4x4 with 75k miles from a Ford dealer with a 4.6l auto. we didn't notice it when we test drove it but it has a squeak when going 0-10 mph in forward or reverse. The story goes a week after getting it home we started noticing a vibration and thudding in the rear end when braking so I take it back to the dealer (50 mile trip 1 way) and when I get there the drivers side rear rim is 30 degrees hotter than the passengers so the tear it apart and find the e-brake was dragging so they lube it up and tell me its good to go. I made it around the building and now I feel it dragging iddling around the parking lot and it is still squeaking so I take it right back in.
Long story short after going through this 2 times that day and bringing it back another day they replaced rear pads, calipers, roters and the hoses going to the caliper and tell me its good to go. Well it no longer had the dragging feel and I had to drive through DC traffic so I beat feet for home and on the way noticed its still sqeaking. I call them and they tell me to put a thousand miles on it and maybe the pads just need to wear in (??). so I took a road trip and 1.2k miles later it still squeaks.
I have tried to tell them it may be the u joints (after searching on here I learned that I am taking it back tomorrow and going to try and get something done but they are still saying its something to do with the brakes and probably won't do the u-joints. Normally, they are filling up the gas tank every trip up there and its all been under warranty (gonna see about getting the warrenty extended tomorrow due to this problem has been ongoing since we got it). Should I just let them run their own course and keep making trips back and forth?
Under heavy braking, both of my ISF's experience a repeated "thunking." Brakes are fine, rotors aren't warped, and you don't feel anything through the pedal. Rather, it's felt through the floorboard. I bought upgraded LCA bushings, thinking this would solve it, but it persists.
View 8 RepliesI've owned my IS F for a little over two weeks now, and I have noticed under several occasions under heavy breaking (close to 70-80% breaking capacity) that I have to fight the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight. This is anywhere from speeds of 80-90 mph coming down to 40-50 mph. Could this be an issue related to the front control arm bushings? My F only has ~41,xxx miles and tires are brand new (OEM Spec) Continental ExtremeContact DWS. No other alignment issues known as the car doesn't track left or right either.
View 14 RepliesAbout a month back my wife and I were on our way home from dinner and when we exited the interstate I heard an awful rubbing sound coming from the engine compartment. I wasn't quite sure what it was or how to describe it. I was concerned it was the timing belt right away. I limped it home sputtering and misfiring and listened for a moment before shutting it down.
The next day I checked all the accessories. Nothing wrong there, so I realized it must have been the timing belt. I began striping the rest down and confronted carnage. One of the bearings had gone on an idler pulley and the gear was riding the bolt. the belt had moved out of position and began to cut into the backside of the plastic cover. By some miracle it hadn't completely snapped or jumped timing.
I replaced all pulleys, the tensioner, the water pump, and the belt. After my buddy and I got it back together it seemed fine aside from a slightly rough-ish idle for a day or two, but then the misfire got quite bad. I chugged it up to my wife's parent's place. We borrowed a car from them, and then I went into repair mode again. I reasoned that perhaps the plugs had fouled when the belt was messed up initially, so I replaced the plugs. Didn't have wires on hand. Fired it back up. No bueno. Same misfire and chugging. Still borderline driveable.
So, I tore down the belt again to find that the intake cam on the passenger side was about 5 teeth off. Seemed further out than my friend and I would have left it, but I got it lined back up within a tooth and put it back together. Still no good. Still misfiring. So we tried it a couple more times. One of us started to doubt the cause, but I talked him to try with one more reset. This time I wanted to get everything absolutely perfectly lined up. We did. I fired it up. Silky smooth, ran like a sewing machine. Put it back together and everything seemed fine. For a day or two.
The misfiring began again. It bothered me that I hadn't managed to take care of the plug wires. I had the codes pulled and I had a steady misfire on ... I think it was 4. I replaced the wires on that side and everything was back to normal. Silky smooth operation. For a couple days.
I was on my way to work and had to brake very hard to avoid an accident. Like from 70 to 0 wheel-lockingly hard. Immediately a misfire at idle returned. Doesn't seem to be an issue when not at idle, but it's hard to say. I guessed that it was the plug wires from the other side. I replaced those today, gave it an oil change. Still misfiring. I dropped by autozone. Codes read - misfire everywhere but 3, and I'm guessing that maybe a sensor for 3 is just messed up. The coil pack looked suspect, and I thought I'd do the PCV valve while I was at it. After replacing both the misfires continue.
I've yanked the battery to encourage the computer to reset. I'm at a loss at the moment. The only think I can guess is that perhaps my new tensioner is poop and I've jumped a tooth or two somewhere? I'm looking for guesses and wild theories here. Anything to try. I'm going to reconnect the battery shortly and if it's still misfiring, which I'm assuming it will be, I'm going to have codes pulled again.
Just to head this one off at the pass - I believe I got extremely lucky and did not damage the valves with the timing belt nonsense. Compression seems good, and I doubt it would have ran as well as it did as long as it did with valve damage.
My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
View 2 Replies2007 SF SE 3.3, approaching 60,000 miles. I'm feeling a front steering wheel shimmy on "heavy" braking, as in a recent trip into the Adirondack mountains with twisty roads.
View 5 RepliesNon mechanical squeaking noise coming from rear passenger side cabin area. Only appears to happen under 75 percent or so acceleration and slightly heavy braking. Sounds like an electrical squeal intermittent under the above conditions.
View 2 RepliesWhen I am accelerating heavy and then slow down as it is engine braking i get a strange vibration. It seems to come from the drive line i just looked over the car today there is nothing loose all suspension is tight drive shaft looks good and the rubber u joint looks good too. I noticed it after I put in the resonator delete but I didn't think that it could cause it.
View 2 RepliesSo this vibration/ cluncking seems to be from between the front seats and mostly during off the line acceration, and from all I can find it's the flex disc, but my flex disc shows no signs of damage. Can these discs go bad without looking bad or is this possibly the hanger bearing on the driveshaft?
I am also looking for any other possibilities for the cause of this vibation/ clunking as there sounds like something is hitting the bottom of the car but there are no impact marks to show me where the issue is
Just bought my R a few months ago and love it so far. I've recently encountered a slight buzz or vibration. I'll get down to the nitty gritty and not bore you with long drawn out information. Basically under heavy acceleration the driver side vibrates/ buzzes down by the floorboard. Now this only happen under heavy acceleration. I even did a test in 1st gear. Heavy accellerate under 2k RPM's, 3k RPM's, 4k RPM's and the vibration happened under these heavy acceleration periods. It's almost like there was also a loss of power during this vibration/ buzz, which leads me to believe it might be the clutch.
I took off the prop shaft and drove in FWD for a few weeks. The vibration was still prominent. Took of both front driveshafts and inspected those and they seem perfect but THE VIBRATION IS STILL HERE. Could this be the clutch?
Question about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.
I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.
In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.
This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?
My 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I got distracted when driving and ran through a dirt center divide and got a flat tire.I had a replacement tire put on and after I started driving from the tow yard there was an immediate heavy vibration. There's a big bump every time the car starts and when switches gears (I have an automatic) and in some gears the vibration is less intense, also when I turn the car at certain angles the vibration seems to go away completely but then returns when I began driving straight again.
View 5 RepliesThe car runs great, but ABS brake always engaged at start-up. Heavy vibration. The ABS warning light comes on after a couple of miles and then the brakes work fine. Changed the wheel speed senors, but repairman said it has to be dealer programmed. Dealer wants to replace ABS pump and module. Not way. Is an easy fix? Jaguar 2002 X .....
View 3 RepliesI felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.