Passat (B5) :: 2003 GLX 4 Motion V6 Rear Viscous Coupling Loose
Sep 23, 2011
I am looking at purchasing a 2003 passat glx 4motion (V6) with 170,000 miles on it for a winter car. The car I'm looking at has been diagnosed with a "rear viscous coupling loose" and a repair estimate of $1700 to fix. The car will be priced accordingly but I'm curious if this is something that I can repair myself and save a few beans.
I am pretty handy with repairs so that's not too big of a problem. I've been searching the forums and can't seem to find anything on this problem. Is this in the rear differential or is it a part of the Torsen center diff?
The car also has a clogged heater core, I've located plenty of info on this site on how to repair this so that won't be to hard.
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I'm doing an install on my son's 2000 passat V6 30 valve.
I have the front rad pulled out and there is plenty of room to work. How do I get off the viscous fan assembly. I removed the fan's 3-4 allen bolts, I now need to get the assembly out. I also removed one of the long allen bolts in the actual assembly. I have the fan ribbed pulley secured with an old serp belt and grip wrench. I am trying to losen the large nut behind he fan assembly. I have attached a photo to point of reference. I may have a manual next week yhat may explain all this.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE that I recently took in for service (oil change). The car has about 95000 miles on it. After I drove it home and used it I now see a small pool of a light brown viscous liquid under the car. The liquid is not odorless. Its got what I can only describe as a 'chemically'smell. The drip is happening near the front end of the car. What could this be? Is this something that needs immediate fixing? Am I putting my family as risk if I don't attend to this right away?
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I noticed that mine covering on the rear headrests come loose, so I took them into the dealer to get warranty replacements. The dealer replaced them, but out of their own stock; they did not file a claim with corporate because the service manager said VWoA is refusing to do so because they consider this damage to be owner caused. In reality though it's a very bad design, prone to failure.
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Something inside my driver's side rear door is loose and keeps rattling every time the base hits. I tried to take the panel out but I broke one of the Clips. Any diagram or a DIY on how to access inside and figure out what the problem is?
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2011 Saab 9-3 XWD, currently 9k miles. Just purchased a month ago. Was previously a dealer loaner vehicle. I have this noise coming from both sides of the rear when the car is in motion. I am unsure if it is just loud enough to sound like it is coming from both sides or if it is really coming from both sides.
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It doesn't start immediately, only after the car has been driven a bit. The noise is most noticeable between 5 mph and 10 mph. It is definitely a rotational sound (I can notice fluctuations in the noise as the wheel spins). It appears to come from both sides. When the car is in the air and the wheels are spinning their is no noise (according to the shop I have been to, I have not been present when this has been done), so that would mean it only occurs when the wheels are touching the road. It does not change when the brakes are applied but goes away immediately when the car comes to a stop. It occurs no matter which gear the car is in (automatic). It even makes the sound when the car is off but rolling.
I have taken it to the dealership and several other repair shops. They all take apart the brakes and inspect the drive train, but no one can find anything out of the ordinary.
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What the effect is of taking out the key fob while your car is in motion? I was on the highway once, and my friend asked what would happen if i were to try to take out the key.. I figured to myself, "VW surely must've implemented some sort of safety mechanism..", so i confidently gave it a try.. and to my surprise, the key actually came right out, and my console (speedometer / tach / fuel / engine temp) shut down.. I kinda panicked, and just popped the key fob right back in, and all was well after that.. What is actually going on with the car when you do this?
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Drove down yesterday it was drizzling and saw an SUV coming up rapidly behind me. Moved over to the middle lane and opened up as he trid to go past, we go to 130mph before traffic slowed me. As he cruised past in the fast lane I noticed the V10 TDI badge. Over 120 the wind resistance became a factor more for the Touareg than me.
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I love this car, but due to it's relative rarity, there don't seem to be too many ways to firm up the ride with some lowering. Eibach does not have a "package" for this model. I was considering getting 1BE springs with Koni FSD's.
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I have never heard my fan change noise pitch since I bought the V-10 Ex four years ago. Could it be working right? It's been through plenty of hot days and idling.
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I just replaced pads and rotors on my 2000 Passat GLX. Everything went fine, i got done, pumped the pedal 10-15 times, took it for a test drive. When I depress the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor, the car pulls right, then left, and slowly stops. At this point, if I hit the brakes again, it feels normal.
I figured it just needed a few minutes, I drove it for about 45 minutes, and it never got any better. I have changed the brakes several times before and never seen anything like this before.
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What could be the cause for a viscous fluid on the floor of the car on the driver's side. "White" smoke comes from the engine and it makes a noise. Car is a 1993 Volvo 850 stick shift.
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
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On Tuesday morning I was watching an auction on my computer and saw a 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab Fx4 with 200K on it. It had an inspection report which is *supposed* to note every cosmetic and mechanical issue. It had nothing listed wrong with it for mechanical. I "won" and for my prize I get a rough-running 6.0 diesel delivered.
I just got off the phone with the transporter who picked it up today and he said there are no check engine lights but it is running rough with no power. So I am having him drop it off at a diesel repair shop.
Hopefully it is just something with the wiring harness but I have a feeling it's got at least a few bad injectors so I am probably screwed.
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I noticed today when I was washing the car that the rear bumper feels loose to me compared to other cars... If I grab the bottom the bumper, just aft of the rear wheel, there can be significant movements of the bumper, and its the same on both sides... I don't see any loose screws.
Tried it with other model cars, the movement range from very small to nonexistent...not sure if it's just my vehicle or if they are all like this by design(or the lack of). The top of the bumper feels rigid enough. Now I kinda want to know if this looseness is causing my bumper to be flapping in the wind at highway speed...
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I was cleaning my car today and when i rolled the rear windows down to wipe the top of them i noticed i could shift them horizontally with ease. I double checked with the front windows and they are sturdy. I was using rain-x wipes when the window moved. It's both of the rears. Is this a problem or is it a "self adjusting" feature?
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The kid came out today. My friend has a late E320 MBZ and went for a spirited drive. from 20 I pulled on him hard. But back to the title..
I made a U turn in 1st gear with light throttle and then half way through the turn I nailed it causing the rear to break loose and get sideways. My buddy saw smoke coming from the rear tires too.
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2013 Prius IV.... I just noticed that my right side rear bumper cover has a 1/4 inch gap between the bumper and the quarter panel. I think it's from me sitting on the bumper while tying up my shoes or something. When I apply downward pressure on the rear bumper, the gap widens. The left side is tighter, but does gap out when downward pressure is applied. In any case, the gap is annoying.
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My wife has a 2008 Prius. There is a annoying rattle in the rear that seems to be caused by the rear spoiler (between the windows on the hatchback) being loose. how is the hatchback inner trim panel(s) retained, and what is the best method to remove said panels?
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