Passat (B5) :: 2003 GLS V6 Suddenly Stalled In The Middle Of Road - Fuel Pump Busted
Jun 6, 2006
Yesterday, for the first time ever, car had to be towed to the dealership for some major problem. My dad was driving to work with his car , a 2003 GLS V6, and suddenly it stalled in the middle of the road. Turns out it was the fuel pump that caused it. Never mind the expenses which is ridiculously high and can't do anything about it (yes, i'm loyal to my dealer). His car had 129399kms on it plus a km to the dealer and mine had 70136km for a 2002 GLS V6.
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The car quit on the road and I diagnosed a bad fuel pump. Multiple tests confirmed the pump had failed. While we were doing the diagnosis, I noticed some strange behavior when monitoring voltage to the pump. While supply voltage was present during cranking, none was applied to the pump when the key was first turned to accessory. I decided to chase one thing at a time and replaced the pump (and fuel filter, since it had been too long since last replacement and I wanted to "cover all bases").
After pump replacement, I opened the coupling in the supply line before the fuel rail to confirm proper operation. When the key was initially turned to accessory (multiple times to prime everything), there was NO fuel flow. When we then cranked it, fuel was present very quickly. After reconnecting the line, a couple of rounds of cranking got the fuel pressure up and the car started and ran perfectly. A quick VAG-COM check showed no codes. I test drove it and then shut it down. Immediately after shut down, I switched the key to accessory and the fuel pump started right up. After doing this 4-5 times with a few minutes pause in between, I pronounced the car "good" and finished up.
This morning, I jumped in, turned the key to accessory and heard......nothing. No fuel pump running for the normal 2-3 seconds. I cranked it and it took two rounds of 4-5 sec cranks for it to fire and run (normally). I assumed it needed time to build fuel pressure. I then drove it for 20 minutes, parked it for 45 minutes and when I restarted it, it took a longer than normal crank period (maybe 3 seconds) to fire and I did NOT hear the pump run in accessory position. The rest of the day was with short stops and I could always hear the pump start in accessory and the car always fired up instantly. I have the Bentley CD and analyzed the wiring harness. It looks like the fuel pump relay is only commanded to operate by the ECU - there is no external input to the relay coil I can see (ground or B+).
The bottom line is that SOMETIMES the pump is commanded to run in ignition switch accessory position and sometimes it isn't. The "isn't" always seems to be after the car has sat for a while. Is there any combination of failed sensors that would cause the ECU to NOT command the pump to run for it's few seconds in accessory position ? Obviously, the next step is the FP relay but I hate to just throw parts at the car without some sort of troubleshooting and the repeatability of the problem with sitting time leads me to believe it may be more of a relay DRIVE problem then the relay itself.
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So I washed my car today at one of those do it your self washes, about 1/2 mile down the road my car stalls, and wouldn't start back up until maybe the 6th or 7th try, my thought was I got something wet...
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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So, the fuel pump was replaced in june after the tank was run dry and it wouldnt turn over. Everything went fine with the pump replacement, except for the lights were dim and there was a short in the taillights after the battery was put back in. I found a severed wire to the taillights, which seemed to fix some of the problem and was going to replace the bulbs for the dimness that night. Drove to work then was going to drive to the grocery store with the girlfriend and when we pulled out of the driveway the truck stalled. We restarted it and it stalled and turn on 2-3 back to back before losing all power. Took the bed off to see if i missed anymore wires but everything looked fine. We pushed it into the garage and when i went to put it into park, the lights flashed and went off. What could be causing this?
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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I have a 2007 F550 with a 6.0. Truck started running real rough and stalled. I was able to start it back up after a bit but within a few blocks it did the same thing. Was very similar to problems I had with clogged fuel fuel filters before I changed the tank to a plastic one. I pulled the filter and housing on the rail and cleaned and replaced the filter. There was no debris in there. Changed the filter on top of the engine too. Cycled the key 5-6 times. I could hear the pump running but the filter housing on top of the engine did not fill up; all I saw was a very little bubbling and gurgling sound.
I opened the drain on the rail filter housing and a little fuel came out but not as much as it should have. Cap is tight, don't see where I could be sucking air. I'm thinking the pump may be shot? Only other thought I had was maybe I switched the plugs on the housing on the rail but I really don't think I did. There are 2 plugs on the right hand side. Black plug is plugged into the lower position parallel to the ground while the gray plug is in the higher position.
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Well, I had success with the last post (antenna) that I would post here about lock.
Here is the deal - Rear left (driver side) door will not lock automatically with the key or the controls up front. I have to press it down to lock it but will unlock if I use either of the controls mentioned above. My thought is that the actuator is busted.
2003 Passat Wagon....
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How to remove and replace a busted lock cylinder. My wife's car got broken into and used something that punched in the driver's door lock cylinder. VW wants top replace a new lock cylinder. I've been able to remove the drivers door panel but I wasn't able to figure out the final steps.
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So at 55,200 miles, the fuel pump on my 2003 decides to quit today. I never got a Recall Letter and when I called VWoA in the past about it they said that my car was not one of those affected, even though it was within the years affected. So what do I do now?
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My 2003 Passat 1.8t starts up but turns off 1-2 secs later. And if it is the fuel pump, where is it on my car?
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I have a 92 caprice 5.7. Vehicle had suddenly stopped ... Providing fuel to the tbi. I immediately checked relays etc all were good. Then I figured it had to be the pump because I didn't hear the whirl of the pump with the key forward engine not cranking. I replaced the fuel pump. Still same problem no fuel. I found the 20 amp fuse blown that sits next to the 2 relays. I replace the fuse then the fuel pump got energized as I cranked the engine it almost started but then the fuse blew again. I have a short in the circuit I believe. I don't have a wiring diagram,what else is on the fuel pump circuit so I can have a direction to start in to find a probable bad wire.
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Ok after rebuilding trans and being down a couple of weeks, I went on my 1st run since completing. Noticed when I started truck this morning it didn't turn over as fast as it was. 30 miles down the road Airbag Light comes on, and then volt meter dropped to 8 volts. Got stopped with truck still idling checked everything I had the tools to do so for. Decided to get back to my shop where I had tools, and 5 more miles and 55 mph truck just shuts off. Lost all power, truck would only click. Put my booster box on battery and gauges went back to normal but still wouldn't turn over but maybe once? Only place within a mile of my location was Walmart. Bought 2 new group 65 batteries, installed them and Shazam cranked right up no more problems. Short of the story bad batteries that checked Good with a load tester don't mean squat!
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Recently bought a used 2002 Camry LE. Ran fine the first couple days I had it, however the first day I tried driving to work in the morning(how poetic), it stalled and died in the middle of the highway when I slowed down.
The first tips I had were to clean the throttle body and/or clean the mass airflow sensor. I did both of these things and the car will actually drive and not stall when stopping now, but the idle is horrendously low still. On a cold start the idle will sit at about 1000-1100 RPM. However, when it's been on long enough to be warm/hot the idle will drop to about 300-400(ish) when sitting in park, and about 600 when in drive sitting at a stop. Took it to a shop and they had no idea why it's so low and suggested I start by replacing the mass airflow sensor to see if the sensor is just going bad.
Planning on replacing the sensor regardless as soon as possible but just gathering any information I can.
When I'm accelerating slowly, my gas pedal vibrates when the car is about to shift up. Just a very subtle vibration but noticeable by anyone driving it. Happens just a second or two before it shifts up then goes away after the shift, then again when it shifts up, etc. It doesn't happen if I'm accelerating quickly though. Say when I'm going to get on the highway. Only when it's a slower speed up like in town between traffic lights or something. I was told this could possibly be a transmission issue? Is there anyway to check for sure or should I just have a transmission shop look at it?
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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About 4 months ago, the car stalled out on the highway. I was going slow because traffic was building up and the car just stopped. I was able to get off to the side. I turned it off, waited a few minutes and then it started up with no problem. I drove it with many stops and starts for about 2 weeks until I could get an appointment with the dealer. The computer did not show a problem. Then in April, the same thing happened. This time, they replaced the Body assy-throttle and./or gasket. Yesterday, the same thing happened though not on a highway but on a city street. There is no noise before the stall, no warning.
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My car stopped in the middle of the road after going 55 mph. It wouldn't go drive or reverse. I did get It to go in neutral so I could push it out road. It has done this before but after stopping putting in park then drive it would go but not this time. What could it be and how much would it cost.
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I'm at a loss here, I bought a salvaged 2001 Prius at an insurance auction and fixed it up. After driving it for about a year the car suddenly dies on me in the middle of the freeway and i had to pull it over. the car hasn't started since. I can get it to turn on but the engine won't turn, and whenever I turn the steering wheel more than 45 degrees it makes this electrical sound the wheels jerks back to the original position and the PS message beeps on. I brought it to a dealership and they said it was a problem with the transaxle but they weren't sure.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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