Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Coolant Pushed Out Of Reservoir When It Warms Up
Jul 31, 2012
I purchase an 03 passat v6 2.8l today. After it warms up it will push the coolant out of the reservoir. Note, it's not overheating. The guy I bought it from said the coolant reservoir exploded on thursday. He said his local mechanic said it needs head gasket. What's ur take on it? When I remove the over flow hose from the reservoir and increase the rpm, very little coolant comes out. After I let go of the pedal, the coolant gushes out on the over flow hose. Thermostat is opening. Guy said the water pump, thermostat and belts were replaced last year. The problem started Thursday when the old reservoir exploded. I was thing of replacing the belts , water pump and thermostat with oem.
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I checked the oil it does not have coolant in it, so that eliminates the headgasket.
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8T Passat and he has oil in coolant reservoir. It does not blow out any smoke. It runs fine, and does NOT have coolant in the oil. We pulled off the oil/coolant heat exchanger on the oil filter and it appears to be good. We blocked off one end and filled it with coolant and put compressed air to the other end. Nothing came out. He took it to the shop and they said the turbo seals were good. I can't verify that though.
Head gasket? Worse yet cracked head or block? The car does have 170,000 miles.
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Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
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been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
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I own a Passat 2004 V6 Wagon ATQ and I noted that the coolant reservoir was low on coolant almost empty but i did not notice any overheating issue. I took the car to the shop and the Cooling system was pressure tested no leaks no problem then after a week I found that after a 20 minutes drive I pull into a parking lot and coolant was dripping from the reservoir my a/c fan works and the fan clutch spins slow and I'm able to stop it with my hand. I just replaced the clutch fan last but the problem still present.
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So I started the car today, proceeded to back out, and the STOP: check coolant light message comes on. I check the coolant reservoir, and its near empty. Then I notice a puddle. Filled it back up and let it run for a bit. No leak. Looked at the front of the engine and didn't see any leaks.
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I'm kind of worried about the coolant in my 03 2.8 passat. it is a pinkish/orangish color, but im worried they topped it off with dexcool at the dealer. is it okay to mix g12 and dexcool or am i looking at a gelled up mess?
With that note, can you run g12+? or do you recommend to stick with the oem g12?
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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Today, I was greeted by a big red STOP! warning from my 2000 Passat 6 cylinder. The car drove fine last night. The coolant reservoir appears empty and has brown residue all over the inside. I notice for the first time that there is pink fluid on the floor -- I'm assuming this is the G12 coolant.
It's not a hot day, so I put in distilled water, turn up the heat and drive my Passat (trying to stay under 2k rpm) down to the dealer. They say that the coolant from the oil cooler leaked into the oil (and presumably, vice-versa).
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.My Nissan Murano, 2003 is acting up after a ton of diagnostics and repair . We replaced thermostat, flushed heat core, replaced coolant pipe which had rusted and leaked out fluid, and ran air bubbles out forever, it seemed. The heater does not work now on lower rpm's and the car was gurgling the other day when i stopped at mailbox. I have been driving it for a few weeks since we had it repaired.When i pulled in into garage, it was overflowing at reservoir for coolant. We have not driven it and our mechanic is perplexed. He ruled out head gasket problems with chemical test and another diagnostic test. . . .he is perplexed. He added coolant and what else. . .. .that is all i can think of . should we get it towed to dealer which is 100 miles away? we've already spent 1500 or so with this and it seems we could be back at square one. Our mechanic is very honest, and he does think it could be in the engine, like a warped plastic piece. . . i don't know what he said exactly, but he's just guessing.We have 128k on this engine.
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I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I plan to replace my Halogen low beams with xenons in a 2003 b5 (v6 auto 4motion). Can't figure out how to remove the shroud over the power steering reservoir to provide access to the driver's side lamp - the passenger side looks pretty straightforward.
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1993 ranger, 3.0 V6 203,000 miles. As engine warms up coolant in blown into over flow and spills out. At that point system is low and truck runs hotter than norman, 3/4 way across gage. What would be causing overflow to overfill from engine. Could it be a bad rad. cap? Just replaced head gaskets at 200,000 miles. Truck runs good. No oil in water, no sign of visible leakes other than overflow tank overfilling and loosing coolant.
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Pulled up to a red light yesterday evening and saw some smoke near the right side of the hood. I immediately checked out the temperature gauge and it was fine. Car didn't appear to be overheating. I make it home--2 more blocks--pull into the garage, leave the engine running and pop open the hood.
THE COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR TANK IS BUBBLING LIKE HOT SOUP AND A NICE PUDDLE HAS ACCUMULATED NEAR MY FRONT RIGHT TIRE--NOT TO MENTION THE TRAIL OF COOLANT LEFT DOWN THE STREET AND UP MY DRIVEWAY.
After some minor research it appears that it can be a few factors (ie, thermostat, fans????) I assumed it was a cracked reservoir (which would explain the leak) but the bubbling it the real issue.
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I have had my certified 2010 Prius since June 2015. Last Saturday I noticed my inverter coolant reservoir was on the low mark. I went to the closest dealer and they topped it off up almost to the full mark for free. I thought it had probably went down from evaporation and I just hadn't noticed it before. Yesterday I went back to the dealer where I purchased it which is about 90 miles away to have the CVT fluid changed. This morning the coolant was back down to almost the low mark. I looked on the ground and can't see any evidence of a leak. Tomorrow I have a appointment to have them check it. Since it is still in the one year certified warranty I don't know how motivated they will be to find the problem when they can't charge me for it. I don't think the level would have went back down right away if there wasn't a leak somewhere. I checked and there have been no recalls done or called for on it.
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Camry 2002 V6 SE.
I had my radiator changed about 2 weeks ago and ever since whenever I drive the car for longer than 30 mins the coolant reservoir boils over as soon as i stop. After much ado i decided to change my radiator cap to one with a higher rating (while my old cap had a 1.0 rating on it the new one has a 1.1 rating), the boiling over in the reservoir has stopped but the upper radiator hose is taut with tension every time and i'm afraid i might damage my engine eventually.
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