My 03' Passat 1.8 won't start. It turns over and cranks. When I'm doing that, all the lights on the dash flash off and on (including hazards), the overhead light flashes and I can hear a click, click in the same time as the flashing. Seems like it must be some sort of electrical problem. Maybe a bad relay or fuse.
View 1 RepliesI just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
My 2003 Passat 1.8t starts up but turns off 1-2 secs later. And if it is the fuel pump, where is it on my car?
View 4 RepliesWhen I go to crank my car in the morning or after its been sitting for a while... It turns over but won't crank but when I turn it back and immediately crank it again it cranks right up...
View 2 RepliesAfter short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
View 1 RepliesJust replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
View 1 RepliesI recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
Drove it last night, started fine. This morning she wouldn't start. Almost turns over but quits right before it would. Then a bunch of rapid clicks. Crank up the sound on the video to see what I mean. Got 46,800 miles.
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
Well, this is the second time this has happened. After filling up the car I went to start her and she would crank, but wouldn't start. I waited about 30 second tried again and gave it some gas and it cranked for about 3 or 4 seconds after giving it the gas and it finally started. I've only filled up twice now and this is the second time it has happened. Took the car into the dealership for a check engine light last week and it said there was a large leak. They believe it was the gas cap (because I also had the gas cap light come on).
View 8 Replies2000 B5 Variant V6 4motion / tip .. Randomly experiencing " no crank " when trying to start , sometimes after a few re-tries the dash icons re-appear and motor cranks & fires up. At other times no joy , leave it for 1 or 3 hrs. , re-starts normally . Also tried starting in "N" instead of "P" , and have cleaned battery terminals and load tested the battery ( all good )..
View 1 Replies2.0t 2006 auto Passat: Push key in, car turns over, rpms settle out, then drop out and battery light comes on. When this happens it will do it several times then fire up normal. I tryed starting it with the gas mashed and it fired up revs went up then dropped out and died. This has only started happening today. Also about a year ago had a problem with battery draining after car sits over night or for long periods of time. After VW replaced a few relays and assorted parts they changed out a window motor and that seems to have fixed that issue. No problems till now.
View 24 RepliesI have a '03 Passat GLX v6 4motion. My problem is the car will not crank. All other electrical items work and it has a new battery. when the key is turned....nothing. it started yesterday morning no problem, went to the PO 1/2 mile away. After that no start. the condition is like when you try to start a car while in any gear except for neutral or park. also timing belt was done within the past 2000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
2001 F-150 5.4 extended cab
You have probably seen this before. Engine cranks but will not start. Backed into driveway, loaded recyclables, truck would not start. Fuel pump relay clicks, a small amount of gas comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I press the stem with a phillips head sd. When the engine is cranking the check engine light is on so I assume the computer is working but there are no RPMs showing on the tach. At this point I'm thinking a bad crank position sensor. Would that sucker go all at once like that? I believe they hid that behind the ac compressor. Am I looking at removing the belt and compressor to get at the sensor?
I have a 1999 4DR V6 Passat and today was not my day. I got to work around 8am this morning, and parked. Forgot my window was down, so I turned the ignition on to roll up the driver's side window like normal, and the window does not go up. In fact, no window will go up or down. I have full power, from what I can tell. All lights work, radio works, AC works, etc... Door locks and my alarm doesn't work either.
This also boggled my mind; the car wont start?!? The car won't even crank. It doesn't even want to try to start. This all happened at the same time. What could have happened? The battery has 12.8 volts and the car drove fine on the 1 hour commute. I disconnected the battery and reconnected hoping to reset anything that may have happened. But that didn't work.
As description says no start and crank . when tested battery is good . automatic trans push button starter??
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn on the heater on at any temp and fan setting the A/C automatically turns on (compressor and condensor fan turns on) . Engine temp comes up and stays at 190. I can turn up the heat to HI and still cold air blows. All buttons and LEDs work on the climatronic, is it the climatronic that is bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 audi a4 1.8t Quattro. The car will only start if I jump the starter solenoid and will only run for a few seconds and shut off. I have a new battery in it and a few relays.
View 2 Replies1999 F-150 XLT 5.4L Triton 4x4 super cab with a 4" body lift. I bought it used. It has 225,000 miles with engine and transmission rebuilt. This truck doesn't get driven every day - sometimes sits for a week or so at a time...
Issue: A couple weeks ago, it took 4 or 5 attempts to get it to start. Once it started it ran fine and re-started fine. Then my wife drove it but parked it back at home with the gas practically empty. Then it sat for at least a week or so before attempting to start it again. Now it just turns over and won't fire. I suspect fuel pump relay, fuel filter, or fuel pump (hoping its not the latter)
What I have done so far:
1. I put more gas in it in case it really was skimming the bottom of the tank.
2. I tried cycling the key several times thinking that maybe the fuel line just needed to prime.
3. I don't hear the fuel pump "whine" for two seconds when I turn the key to just before start.
4. I checked the fuel pump relay fuse (#10) - not blown
5. I have swapped thet fuel pump relay (#301) with another relay
6. I put 12 volts across the just the relay and I can hear it picking up and dropping out (when not inserted into slot 301)
7. I put my hand on the relay and had someone else turn the key and I can feel it picking up and dropping out (when installed into slot 301)
8. I went and checked out a fuel pressure tester from auto zone and connected it to the schrader valve and got 0 psi while turning the engine over.
All this points me to the fuel pump, but I am not looking forward to dropping the gas tank. With 0 psi, I doubt the filter is just clogged. I would still get some kind of pressure at the fuel rail, right?