Went in for a tune-up and inspection on my 03 1.8 passat. Turns out my cv boots are shot. How much should I expect to pay for parts & labor, I will not be going to the vw stealership to get this done. It's just the fronts that need to be done.
View 11 RepliesMy girlfriend and I replaced both of thee axles on her Passat this past spring. She just brought her car in for a oil change and the mechanic noted that both outer CV Boots are twisted and leaking and the right front sway bar link has some play. Do these two could problems could be connected? Is the sway bar link a replace able part?
View 1 RepliesSo I went to rotate my tires today and noticed grease around the inside of the rim to which i then noticed that my Drive Axle Boots are ripped. I noticed the grease around the wheel well last time I changed my oil and thought it was something I drove through. I guess Not How much should this job cost? I called the mechanic and he said because there is no "clicking" noise when I turn that he can replace the boots and add grease and it should be fine but that job will cost $500, $250 for each side. Should I stop driving the car right away?
View 13 RepliesI went to get my tires rotated and the mechanic noticed that the right outboard CV Joint boot on my passat had a little tear in it, but the grease hadn't leaked all out. I replaced both the outboard and inboard CV Joint Boots. Below is a nice link for DIY step by step write up with great pictures.
[URL] .....
I took the car in today for the damn A/C.
They said my compressor is shot.
So, when I get it back I hope I will have cold A/C. I will let you know.
Trying to change the pads on my 2003 F250. One of the boots is not retracting smoothly. Any recommendations?
I can't get the caliper to bolt back on and I think this is the issue.
I've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
I have a 2001 f250 7.3 and I had started to notice I wasn't making as much boost I thought I should have been. I looked around and found a tear in the cold side CAC boot. My question is what is the best option for replacing it, something like RiffRaff or oem? Also should I look at replacing all the boots or just the two up top?
View 14 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesOK changing plugs and boots on 2003 f 350 5.4 (I have a bad miss and mis-fire code) First time messing with these things. When taking out the coil over plugs it looks like somebody put die-elect grease up underneath the boot at the top where the spring and the metal prong touches together. I thought I just needed only to grease the plug on the sides to keep the boot from sort of melting onto the plug. And some boots had maybe a drop of water in them is this common or any concern? Might be condensation and water does conduct elec, so not that concerned, but these C-O-P's are new to me and thought I'd ask. I've searched here and read posts about changing of the plugs and C-O-P's but don't remember any water boot coming up.
View 6 Repliesive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
View 13 RepliesI took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 lariat super crew 4x2 with a 5.4L engine with 145,000 miles. My tranny is shot, and i was told it happened because the tranny cooler went bad. A few people have told me it sounds strange that the cooler went bad on its own. The truck is still at the shop that diagnosed it and i cant seem to figure out if it has the 4R70w or the 4r100 tranny in it. Is this something that's standard or something i will have to look at on the truck itself to figure out.
View 11 RepliesAlright so I got ripped off on a truck that I just bought. Among all the other issues the main one is the bed. The side panels and tailgate are immaculate but the floor is shot. I read in another thread how everyone patched the holes but my issue goes much deeper. Even the bed frame is shot. Is there any way I can get a piece of steel cut to size and put new pieces for the frame and just weld it together? Id hate to have to buy a whole new bed because I am short on cash trying to start school and doing other repairs to what I thought was gonna be a perfect truck. It has the 6.5ft "Styleside" or flareside bed.
View 3 RepliesI have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
I was driving my bosses f550 with a 7.3, and while towing a loaded 40' flatbed of hay, it started bloing white smoke and lost all power and had almost no pedal feel. It wouldnt even go past 2500 RPM. Then, all of a sudden, it started billowing black, and BOOM backfired and shot flames out the exhaust. Then, I pulled over at a parts store and replaced the fuel filter, which worked for a while, but then it started blowing white smoke again. Once I limped it home and unhooked it, I took it out and let her rev a bit and it seemed to stop blowing smoke, but it still has less than the normal power it used to have. It has 226000 miles and is completely stock.
View 8 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 Explorer. Two weeks after I bought it I found out the motor on the windshield washer water pump was shot. The dealership fixed it for free. About a week after I got it back when I was driving in the morning to work I noticed the check gauge light go on and saw that my temp gauge was pointed at HOT!! I pulled over and stopped immediately. As soon as I slowed down the temp gauge went back down to normal. It happened 2 or 3 more times and had it back at the dealership. They are stumped. They sent it to a Ford dealership and they couldn't find anything either.
They said they have checked everything and it is not overheating. They even put a thermometer on it while they drove it and it didn't get over 205* I am surprised it didn't do it to them because it happens almost every morning. I only work 4.3 miles from my house so its not like I am driving very far. It usually happens at about 3 miles. As soon as I see it going up (and I watch it a lot!!) I take my foot off the gas and start to slow down or barely press the brake it goes right back to normal. Then it stays at normal the rest of the day. Is it the sensor or the wiring or did the do something to it when the fixed the washer motor?
Do the wet boots make a clicking/rubbing type noise when turning on your car? It happen on my 2012 GTI, but only when it rains. It's really loud when I turn inside a parking garage. It's definitely not the joint itself, but rather is the rubber boot sticking to itself and releasing on the compressed side of the boot during the turn. No other car of mine has made this type of noise, even those with cheap Chinese aftermarket axles.
View 7 RepliesSo I finally got a chance to pull the front wheels off the car yesterday and noticed that BOTH outer CV boots are ripped and there is grease everywhere. How long this has been going on for but I haven't noticed any grinding or popping noises yet so hopefully they're still good.
I've checked on ECS Tuning and they have replacement boots, OEM ones. I'm honestly really low on funds, and would like to opt for the cheaper ones but wondering if I will regret it,
Also, as far as replacing the boots go, I'm sure it's easiest just to remove both axles correct? Do I need any special tools for this job? Any DIYs? This is my daily so I will have to drive it like this for the time being although I really don't want to.?
Looking for DIY replace the Axle Assembly. I noticed a bunch of grease splattered on the low control arms both sides. Replace the inner and outer boots or have to replace the whole assembly?
View 9 RepliesThe steering rack on my 2009 Sonata was previously replaced under warranty but now it start to leak seriously.from the two boots at the ends of the steering rack ends. Is it possible to replaced seals only where it leaks?
View 13 Replies