Passat (B5) :: 2003 1.8T - Hard To Get Car Into Gear (Park To Drive)
Jun 15, 2013
My fiancee, has a 2003 Passat that she loves and is having a problem that I notice but she hasn't. First start after the cars been sitting for a while makes it noticeably more difficult to take the car out of park.
I did some searching and I couldn't find the exact issue, but it seems people that cannot remove it from park at all were having issues with the brake switch or something like that. Not sure if this applies to us since we can still get it out of park.
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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Lately (within the last couple of days) when we park the Excursion we have a difficult time getting it out of park and into gear whether it is going in to Reverse or Drive the gear shift does not want to move.
I have not forced anything at any time but eventually with some pumping of the brake pedal and some putting into park and out of park we can free it up. This is something that happened virtually overnight and once we are in gear everything is normal.
What is causing it? I am making an assumption that it has to be some switch in the steering column but I am no mechanic and only guessing.
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I have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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My car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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I had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I have an '03 sport trac with 146k miles on it. Truck is in good shape for the most part, it has been very well kept before i got it. In the last few months i have had the flow master exhaust put in and the k&n intake. I had the vacuum leak problem with the hole in the elbow, which was fixed and discovered after replacing the IAC.
I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.
The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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I have a 99 passat wagon - it hasn't been shifting right - sometimes it won't shift out of park, other times it won't sift out of 1st... we are wondering if it is worth fixing or if we should find a different car...
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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