Passat (B5) :: 2002 Running Rough And Yellow Engine Light Blinking Then Turned Off
May 23, 2009
Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
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Driving on the highway today and when I started to accelerate fast I noticed my check engine light blinking yellow and also noticed loosing boost I think I can only reach maybe 10-12 psi, I am stage 1 revo and also it was 95 degrees out, what it could be, thinking misfiring? so would that mean new coil pack and spark plugs?
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Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
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So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
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2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
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So- I take the variant in for a 65000 mi service- i.e oil change- and to get the recall done on the crankcase hose. I pick it up, drive out, and at first stop sign --- it starts running rough and engine light comes on. Take it back- they throw the computer on it and it throws a code for vacuum leak connected to brakes.. they take it back-pick up next day---they had to replace the brake booster (under warranty, extended-nice of em, I guess), because, they say, the cowling plug was plugged and water filled the booster. I HAD smelled musty water smell. But- why did it just go in the shop?? 60 bucks to unclog drain- W.
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My girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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This weekend my CEL went on and stayed there. Everything seemed otherwise fine until yesterday, when the engine started running rough (like it is missing) and the CEL will flash on and off periodically. When I got home, the exhaust smelled like gas. I have an appointment with the dealer one week from today, and am driving my "spare" car in the interim.
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PCS blinking yellow light? I know what it is for but just got the car (2011 ISF) on Saturday and no PCS light. Drove it for about 10 minutes the first day I got it and then couldn't drive it again until today. Today = PCS light.
I was investigating wiring yesterday in the sunroof area for possibly hooking up a radar detector, which I didn't do yet. I replaced the car battery the day before. Drove it around today for really the first time and the PCS light remains.
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The fan inside my air filter box, or turbo charger intercooler (not sure of correct technical term) is running on and off for several hours after engine has been shut off. I believe this is running my battery down. Is this intercooler/fan suppose to run after the engine is shut off?
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Today I had my 2015 Passat 20,000 mile service appt. The tech informed me that he heard the turbo still running after the engine was turned off. He said recently they had this happen to another Passat, and they had to replace the engine because metal flakes into the engine. Needless to say, I am not a happy. On the bright side, they did not see any metal pieces in the oil which could happen because of the turbo problem, but my car is going back to the shop in a few days for a thorough inspection.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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Our 05 mercury monterey is riding rough and the check engine light is blinking all of a sudden. Two days back while driving home it was raining and we accidentally drove through a puddle, did not notice due to night time. After that it suddenly the light started to blink and engine felt rough. Checked the code yesterday morning and it showed cylinder 3 misfiring, no other codes came up. No one was available to check it yesterday and today. Have not started it again. Anything can be done before taking to the mechanic? I believe the number 3 cylinder is at the back side and not accessible easily. What could have happened?
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I Encountered a problem today on my way back from shopping. I started the car as usual and noticed i was down on power and heard a weird noise from the exhaust in the back part of the car. I pulled over restarted and a message popped up saying Emissions Garage and a yellow engine control light stayed on. Got home popped the hood and i heard this turbo sound like in the imports. I am pretty sure its the air going back in to the turbo as if in the blow off valve wasn't doing its job. Also a weird noise on all the air intake pipe specially at the air filter.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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My car recently started running rough (felt like it was misfiring). I took it to a local mechanic who went through all the normal possible problems and determined that it was a computer issue but did not have the equipment to diagnose it. I then took it to a VW dealer who said it was a bad ECU. They wanted a fortune to replace the unit so I sent it to a ECU repair shop in the UK. The repair shop said there was nothing wrong with the ECU and I have since put it back in the car which still continues to run rough. What else may be causing this issue especially considering that the VW dealer said it was a bad ECU but the repair shop said it was not?
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While my car was idling in a CVS parking lot, the VCS, Red Exclamation in a triangle, Yellow Exclamation in a circle and the check engine lights all suddenly turned on.
In reading the forums, it seems the two most likely issues would either be the inverter pump (which I had replaced as part of the recall, and I see the fluid moving in the reservoir), or possibly a bad 12v battery (which I had replaced last year with the forum recommended Optima Yellow Top).
I checked for error codes, and there were numerous ones there at first, but I think that might have been related to the old 12v battery dying (I never reset after that). I cleared the codes, and no new codes are generating.
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I have a 2008 Sedona with the following trouble codes: P0018, P0300, P0302, P0304
I have replaced the coils and plugs, a torn air intake hose, and a camshaft position sensor for the side of the engine with even numbered cylinders.
It still runs rough has a blinking CEL, and gives the same codes.
I found that unplugging any of the myriad of sensors under the hood will keep the ECM in open loop so that it runs like a dream, but as soon as they are plugged back it, the trouble comes back. I used that fact to my advantage to drive the car to the mechanic a few miles away.
After running diagnostics, he says the ECM is bad based on the fact that the number 2 and number 4 fuel injectors stop pulsing after a couple minutes of idling. He says they are not even getting a signal from the ECM. He does not have the equipment necessary to flash a new ECM and recommends going to the dealership for a new one and getting it flashed there.
My question is, if I am being lied to, what do I need in terms of equipment to get a used ECM, install it and flash it with my VIN myself? If such equipment is cost prohibitive, can I contact one of these companies that sells ECMs and have them send me one preprogrammed with my VIN?
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