Passat (B5) :: 2002 Jitters Like Turbo Isn't Getting Enough Air Or Choking
Apr 3, 2012
Ok my issue is probably a simple and possible easy fix but I need to know what to do. Pretty much you're accelerating more aggressively and the turbo kicks in in between 2000-3100 rpms the car gets the jitters like the turbo isn't getting enough air or choking or something like that, ive been told that it might be a vacuum hose but idk where the turbo is located to begin with let alone where the vacuum hose is.
Also I have '02 passat 1.8T manual
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Turbo leaking? Is it costly to fix? I have a 2002 Passat, V-4 engine. I just took it in to get my oil changed and the mechanic told me that there's turbo leak. I have also been experiencing a weird siren like noise when I drive and the car feels like it's struggling whenever I go over 40 mph and or driving up a steep hill.
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Temperatures just went significantly down. Tonight it was around 45 degrees when I started my car. 1 mile down the road, refuel light went on and it said the Range was 40 miles. I was at a traffic light when suddenly the car started choking, cabin lights started dimming with the choking. I stepped on gas so that it won't die on me and raise the car's temperature; that kept the car running.
Re-fueled the car at the next gas station 1 mile down the road. Thought the choking would be gone but no, it still choked when stationary. Right then the check engine light went on too confirming that something has really gone wrong.
Drove the car for about 12 miles and then dropped the car off at the dealership - should find out what went wrong tomorrow morning. The check tire-pressure warning has been on for a week too - but that goes on every year when the temperature drops.
Car has 13500 miles and is taken very good care of - VW recommended services done at 5000 and 10000.
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Noticed the car engine light was on and took it to the autozone to get read by the computer. They said it was probably the cooling sensor. Replaced that part. Still, the light remains. I did notice that the fan on the passengers side turns on automatically upon starting the car. I don't think that is right. I thought it only turned on when the temp rises or the Air conditioner is turned on? Could that be the issue?
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I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Eddy B model with 74K miles. When I drive it randomly "Jitters". The event is difficult to describe. It happens anytime; hot or cold, at start-up or after being on the road a while, when I accelerate or am at a constant speed, on cruise control or not. The only time it is not prone to happen is going up a steep incline.
The engine cuts out several times in very quick succession, or once for about 1-2 seconds. It sort of feels like a series of backfires, or that the transmission is trying to find a gear it wants to be in (as I said, this happens even on a level road at a constant speed). When the event takes place, the tach intermittently and quickly goes from the hormonal 1500 rpm (or so) to around 2500 rpm, then returns to normal.
This occurs more often lately.
There is no engine light, so putting it on a test machine is not yet an option. I have changes all the filters and uses the gas stuff to eliminate water. I let the tank get down to 50 miles of driving time and then always fill the tank.
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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I bought a 2002 gti mk4 with about 127000 miles on it .I did not know the turbo fans were blown out , they were sitting in my down pipe next to my catalytic converter . So I replaced the turbo myself , and 2 hours later the fans fell out of the new turbo , what might be the problem ? why it keeps blowing.
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Its a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.
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I've been mulling over the idea of doing a muffler job on my 2002 f350 7.3 cc short bed. I do tow on and off for work and dual material for work. I am thinking of upgrading the exhaust because I noticed a couple small leaks in the muffler and I'd like to lower the egt's for the truck so it breath a bit smoother. I'm not a fan of the really high pitched sounds I've heard on some I want it deep and heavy sounding. The turbo is fine for now but eventually I'll need to know what to upgrade to once it starts to wear out. I don't plan on doing dumb chips or tunes because it's not a toy truck but a work and daily driver.
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I have an 02 crew cab SB 7.3L. The best way to I know to describe it is a sorta like a metal ringing noise. It just started this afternoon while pulling a 9k camper. It only does it under load. Boost stays the same and it happens in all ranges from 5psi to 15psi. It is intermittent. It sounds like it it coming from the turbo. I pulled off the boot and could not feel any play on the intake wheel.
After unhooking trailer and taking for a test drive I can not get it to do it again? The turbo was rebuilt about 4 years ago with a wicked wheel but has only seen about 18k miles since the rebuild. A quick look at the boots appear good but didn't get to take them off before going to work. I will try to post video.
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So my CEL is on. My turbo seems like it's constantly on, there doesn't seem to be any boost, and lowered power. So I have been wondering what this could be.
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My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
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So, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
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99 volkswagen passat 1.8T ... The turbo have like a fluttering noise when i let off, I just installed a APR chip. Is it a dieverter valve or something.
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Is it bad if there is oil coming out of the valve cover breather going into the turbo inlet? I noticed the sides of the turbo inlet on the top is lightly covered in oil.
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When i accelerate, i can hear the turbo, i don't know if its a problem though.
I drive a 18 wheeler for work, and sometimes when i'm goin down a hill and i accelerate, i get no power, just hearing the turbo loud and clear with no power.
But i barely hear it on the passat, i don't know if its good or bad.
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I took the wagon to the dealer for servicing due to an oil leak. However, before taking it in, I put the car up on ramps and took a peek to see what was the culprit. I noticed that oil was dripping from the turbo area. Nine days ago they performed the following repair:
--> Cause:Gasket for the turbocharger pipe leaking.
--> Fix: Installed a new gasket, added engine dye to check for any other leaks and no more leaks were found after repair.
However, today I noticed oil in my garage floor again from the same spot.
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So about 30 minutes ago my exhaust broke between the turbo and cat. I guess I could weld it back but the pipe is a little rusty. Should I just get a turbo back and call it good and if so what brand and where do I get one for a 01 passat 1.8t
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Well I just put a junkyard motor in my cousins 06 passat. Fired it up today runs great and runs smooth. The only thing that concerns me is the top end makes some noise. Is this normal for this direct injected engine? Sound like its coming from the injector area and the injection pump......
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I have a 1999 AEB 1.8t , My turbo is whining and is on its way out. Wonder what turbos from other year Passats and Audi A4 1.8t are a Direct swap in.
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OK, so my b5 has been sitting for about 3 weeks now because I didnt have the money to fix it. Now I do but before I fix it I wanna kno exactly whats wrong with it. Basically it will go into gear when the cars OFF but it wont go into any gear when its ON. Clutch still grabs because the car will jump forward if started while in gear.
1999 Passat 1.8 Turbo
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