My 2002 1.8L 60K miles is making a loud woooshhh noise during hard acceleration. The noise seems to be coming from the engine, but it might be coming from under the car. I have a manual tranny, and this happens in all gears. There is no noise during idle, and no noise during mild acceleration.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
I noticed that the turbo sounds kind of weird when it first spins up in 2nd and 3rd gear. Kind of a rattly whoosh noise before the normal whistle. Is it normal? I thought it was the "noise maker" thing, but FWIW the 2011's don't have it.
View 4 RepliesRecent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
I bought a B5.5 wagon with 145kmi on it last week. It's a 1.8t with a tiptronic transmission.
Last night, when I stepped on the accelerator for the first time when it downshifted I got a nasty vibration until I let off. When just cruising or accelerating at a normal speed there is no vibration at all. It doesn't matter if you're doing 20 mph or 60mph, it's the same vibration when you accelerate hard.
I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or something?
Ok first of all i know this sounds really stupid. I got curious of the intake system and I unbolted the tube that does down to the (turbo i think) anyways I figured it was the intake for the engine. Anyways I went for a quick little drive, and it was not the intake for the engine it was the for the turbo. The turbo sounded pretty loud and made a whoosh when the throttle was released. Cool. 2 min later the car shut off i started it back up drove home, and put every back the way it was suppose to be! and there is a check engine light. My question is... How do I reset the light myself instead of the dealer doing it, I thought i remembered how to do it somehow without anything. Btw was doing that anyway harmful?
View 4 RepliesOdd, relatively loud "whoosh" noise when they turn off the engine? It sounds pneumatic in nature, like a pump or servo of some sort sealing or depressurizing? I should note that I park in a garage, which may amplify it. Definitely more noticeable if you open the driver door or window then kill the ignition.
Second, I don't know if it's the cold, a bad batch of gas, or just normal but the motor seems to make a clack clack clack noise when stopped/at idle. It's not consistent and doesn't seem to affect drivability. I just hope it's not knock or slap, i.e., indicative of serious issues. Am I just being paranoid and overly sensitive?
2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
Recently purchased a flooded 2013 VW Passat TDI and am a newbie. Flushed trans and did a fluid change. Transmission slips on hard acceleration in 2nd and 4th gears and under minimal pull in 6th gear. I then took it to dealership and they told me there was an active code for intermittent low pressure and told me I needed a new mechatronic and that fluid was still somewhat milky. After telling them it was a flood vehicle they told me I needed a new transmission.
Brought it home and drained fluid again and replaced the K-2 solenoid, refilled fluid and test drove. Still slipping the same. Pulled trans today to look at K-2 clutch pack and found what appears to be three pieces of rubber seal (approx 1/64 thick, 1/16 wide, and when putting pieces together appears to be 1 1/2 inside dia. I think one small piece is still missing. Arrived at the 1 1/2" ID by the curvature of remaining pieces) inside the inner hub. I have inspected most of the pieces and cannot come up with where these have come from. I believe they have to be from somewhere that seals up the K-2 piston.
Currently having a possible 'issue' with my 2012 Passat 3.6. Every time I perform a hard acceleration, or any time the RPM's exceed 4,400, I can hear a whistle that is rpm-based coming from the engine bay. It is quite notable from outside as well, and ONLY occurs when the A/C is ON. Is this something I should be concerned about? I never hear it when hard accelerating without the A/C on. It is a high pitch whistle that increases in pitch the higher RPM's that are reached. Sounds almost exactly like a turbo, but as soon as I change gears in the acceleration, the pitch instantly drops back down but still matching (pitch-wise) rpms in the next gear and continues again.
It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin, but not over, say, 6 of volume on the radio.
2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
Ok so the wife and I were heading home, she was in her 2.0t sedan, I was in my 3.6 4motion wagon. I got stuck behind a slow driver on the highway (doing 50 in a 70 mph zone) so I get in the passing lane and I floor it to pass him. When I get home, my wife tells me she saw a good amount of black/blue smoke coming out my tail pipes when I went to pass the other driver. This is on a engine with 2400 miles.
I take a look, and the chrome exhaust tips I had installed not long ago are now all black, covered in a oily thick residue. These same exhaust tips were on my previous 07 3.6 4motion wagon for 10k miles and was still shiny when I took them off. but after about 1k miles on the 08, they are now all black. I check the oil and it still reads full.
So what could this black smoke and this oily residue on the exhaust tips be caused by? should I be concerned? Engine runs fine with the exception of sometimes stalling when trying to start it after a short stop. (VAG-COM doesn't show any error codes logged.
Rumble whoosh noise (her description,,, I am currently in another State) coming from my wife's vehicle in the front of the engine compartment. Closer to the passenger side near the water pump. Noise has been present for the last six months, but would always go away after it was warmed up. During winter (In Tucson AZ so never gets too cold), it is worse due to the cold weather. Previously only happened at low RPMs and ended to be worse when turning a corner.Today it occurred also after operation for a quite beyond starting of the vehicle, and is starting to sound like the failure of bearings. Also a burning smell was occurring.Just replaced both the water pump and the alternator, and the front struts. The water pump is not leaking but the old pumps leaks are still evident. The current mechanic trying to troubleshoot is stumped. Motor mounts are getting close to failure, but still appear to not be a problem. CV joints are fine. What to look at?
2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....
I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:
ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)
3 inch open downpipe
Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)
Short ram intake+heat sheild.
Spring loaded wastegate.
So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.
I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.
The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"
I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.
I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).
Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?
I am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
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