Passat (B5) :: 2002 VW Revs Then Shifts Into Gear
Sep 12, 2011
So I sea foamed the passat vac/intake 2 days ago and car drove fine then did oil change 1 day ago 5/30 all I had with additive resline. Since then car revs then shifts into gear or stays in wrong gear until I rev the car. Never had problem shifting until now. Low oil pressure or electrical issue from sea foam vacuum leak.
2002 VW Passat 2.8 AWD
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I recently bought a 2002 Mercury Cougar with an automatic transmission. I really like it, but it seems to have some trouble shifting. If I really "punch it" it revs all the way up to about 6200 rpm before it shifts. I think this is high, but the red-zone isn't until 8000.If I don't "punch it" and I accelerate slowly it still goes up to about 4300 rpm. I talked to many of my friends and mechanics that I know and they have a lot to say (as do I). One thing they all talked about was my transmission. They told me to check my tranny fluid and make sure that it is full, not discolored, and didn't smell burnt. I did all this and everything seems okay.
Also, someone I know who is very knowledgeable about mechanical issues looked at it and he said that it doesn't smell burnt, it's a perfect color and is filled correctly. Another thing they brought up is that the car might be governed because it tops out at about 82 mph (I know that's way too fast, but I have to know what she's got.) It also only has 115,000 miles and seems very well cared for, so I think it should still have plenty of life left in it. One of the mechanics said something about a manual linkage sensor. (Mlt sensor). He said that when they steam cleaned my engine that it might have gotten wet and then when the pulled the car outside it might have froze and cracked, causing my troubles. Also, they mentioned about how if you disconnect the battery on a Ford vehicle that it will reset the computer and usually takes 1,000 miles or so for the computer to run through all the codes and realize if there is anything wrong. I do have a brand new battery and was just replaced prior to me purchasing it. My check engine light is not on and it seems to purr perfectly all the time.
My boss has a computer that we hooked up and let it run the codes and see if it would tell us anything, but it's a small personal one and he said the Ford dealers computer can dig deeper and possibly find the problem. His little hand-held computer didn't find any problems. I don't want to have to bring it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it before I know what's actually wrong so that I can save them time, and me money. I don't know if this is a problem and should be fixed.
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My car will not leave first gear until the car reaches 60 x 100 revs 9 has heated up. After leaving first gear it shifts smoothly so I doubt its the transmission fluid, plus it's over 14 thousand miles and I was told not to change the fluid for the transmission. I think it could be a bad solenoid because when I bought the car the dealership wouldn't let me take it home until they installed a new one or else "it wouldn't leave first gear" if so witch solenoid would that be so I could replace it.
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So my aunt has a 2002 ford f150 king ranch 5.4l and a night ago it started this problem which when you put it in drive which she has to put it in 2nd for it when she pushs on the pedal it will rev up to 2500rpms than jerks and goes and its usely fine till she stops than goes and it does it again...
Than today it wouldn't even go in anything but reverse... So than we herd about the Range Sensor on the side of the transmission and it seems like it was it so I unplug it when it was running and when i push on the pedal and it revs up to 2500rpms it will go forward and have power. So we went to get a new range sensor after like 4 hours trying to get the dam thing off and another 2 to get it back on.. I started it up and only reverse works again... So I unplug the harness to it again and we got the gears but 1st and 2nd will just rev and go.
We at a lost right now i even tighten the shift screws under the dash cause our expedition was loose at one time and the gear shifter was loose like hers. But even tighten the bolts it still don't fix the looseness or even the gears.. Is this a transmission problem? OR even the torq covertor?
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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Replaced the 2002 ford explorer 4x4 traction control module because of a shudder in first gear. With the new module the shudder disappeared but now the truck shifts into 4wd by itself and stays there. I am now on my 2nd new module because I returned the first one thinking it was defective.
If I cycle the 4x4 high switch and the 4x4 auto switch, the truck switches back int 2wd but on for a moment then goes back into 4wd. I don't get a 4x4high indicator light but I can hear and feel it is in 4wd. Almost like it thinks the truck needs work with the traction. I have now disconnected the module completely and the trucks runs/shifts beautifully in 2wd. I know my transmission is good. BTW, I have no trouble codes.
Do I have a bad speed sensor somewhere? and How do I trouble shoot for it?
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So tonight my wife got off work at 7pm, she gives me a call and tells me she is on the side of the road. I was like wtf, what happened....anyways long story short I drive 30 miles out, by that time tow truck just arrived and flat beds the passat wagon to dealership.
So what my wife told me she got off work, drove about 2-3 miles down the road and then lost power and she pretty much came to a stop. Then she called me. Then tow truck came and towed it it dealer.
So issues I noticed, car starts fine, no engine lights on, but when you put in any gear, drive, reverse, sport mode etc. car does not move at all and engine just revs up. I'm think thing torque converter or something but really have no clue. Anyways tow truck tows car to dealer I start back up car and for f same car has power again can go forward, can go backwards! Yeah right, so I said let me see if I can drive around the block, so get in car start driving and then the power starts to fade and only drives about 100 feet before the lack of power happens and start to come to a stop. I did notice some slight grinding noise but by that time I wasn't moving anymore.
So we park in an open spot(had to push the beast) and then went home and here I sit and type my problem. What is going on and why all of a sudden without any notice this would happen. It has been a great car for us and we just had it in the dealer on Tuesday for oil change and they said everything looks good besides your rear pads are getting low... This just really sucks and couldn't of happened at a worse time. Just don't understand why the 2.0t transmission would do this all of a sudden. I pray that we don't need a new one replaced.
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When accelerating hard I seem to have to consiously let up on the gas prior to clutch actuation in order to avoid having the engine "overshoot" a couple hundred rpm between shifts. Is this normal for the 1.8t?
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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My boyfriend bought a 1999 ford explorer, he put about 2,000 miles on it in four months... I believe it now has roughly 110,000... Now the other day, he was pulling out and shifted from reverse to drive, we heard like a loud clunk/thump noise... It shifts into drive, and revs but won't move, it feels like neutral... If you shift to second, first, or reverse it's fine... Tranny fluid is good... O/D is always engaged...
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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Got my shifter in yesterday installed it today, had a few throwbacks but Jim was able to iron them out, except for one. I can go through all my gears, even reverse, but when I put it into "1st" it puts me in 3rd and it's sluggish taking off. I'm going to take it all apart tomorrow and try it again.
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Purchased my '12 R a week ago. It's got 40k on it. I noticed that sometimes after disengaging from first gear, the revs climb and hang around 1500 for around a couple of seconds.
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While in drive, transmission does not shift into the first gear (once in motion transmission shifts between 2-5 without any issues), but all 1-5 gears available while in Tiptronic mode. The check engine light is not on. Is it a transmission problem or a control/wiring issue?
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At 37 mph and transmission shifts to 5th gear a violent shift occurs. The fist time I thought that I had hit a cement block! It only happens in triptonic or if I leave the shift lever in 4th gear and exceed 55Mph. My local VW dealer said a new Transmission would cure it.
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I just picked up my new R (Rising Blue 2 Door w/ S-Roof & Nav) yesterday and love it, except for one thing. When accelerating and changing up through the gears, the revs seem very slow to drop after lifting off the gas and dipping the clutch to select the next gear. It is like there is a delay between me lifting off and the instruction getting to the engine.
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Sometimes while cruising at moderate to highway speed I'll go full throttle (to pass, merge, etc.), but the car just revs for about three seconds then catches a gear. It has happened in D and S mode. I've taken it in to the dealer and they checked for any codes, but there weren't any.
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Having a very pronounced hesitation/slip between 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. It happens in both "D" and "S" modes. I've had the tranny flashes and they fixed the throttle hesitation and the general harsh shifting. Still have a slip when going from 2nd to 3rd.
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I have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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