Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Trans Slip Going From 2nd To 3rd Gear
Nov 23, 2010
I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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I got a 2000 ford explorer with 151k on it... Since iv had the truck (5yrs) its always had a slight slip around 3rd going to 4th. The tran is auto!!
I use to be able to jump in and take off but here lately i have to let the truck idl for a few sec or up to a min before i can take off (warm or cold). This just started a month ago...
The trans fluid smells burned and it has be 2yrs since iv changed fluid and filter in the tran...Everything other then that iv kept up to par. What do you think should i start looking for something new or just change filter and fluid????
I know the truck has had a good life so I am starting to think the tran maybe trying to go.... My friend has a 85 dodge ram charger suv not sure the miles but its auto as well....It has a 318. Other then a small dent the thing look good... It has some kinda vacuum leak major but doesn't effect running. He told me the leak is from something he had removed when we left CA that they said he had to have for smog?
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Have a 2009, 2500HD 4X4 23K miles that has an occaisional/intermittant trans slip when shifting from 2nd to 3rd (I think). It always seems to catch me by surprise so it may be 2-3 or 3rd to 4th. Shift point seems to be around 1800rpm, engine revs to about 2500 during the slip. It's always shortly after starting up and the trans is not necessarily up to full operating temp. I've noticed it happening in the dead of summer as well as the dead of winter.
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He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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I have a 2005 Passat TDI with 2500 miles & this car was wrecked and I recently got it back from the body shop. Well I now have a transmission problem. When I first take off the car feels like it is in a high gear. Then the transmission will slip. I have taken the car to the local VW dealer and they have given me the following information.
-Incorrect Ratio 4th gear #Code P0736 & 17110
-Incorrect Ratio 5th gear #Code P0735 & 17118
This leaves me with two options according to VW.
1. Replace the transmission
2. Replace the computer
2005 Passat TDI? Which would be more obvious as a problem?
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I have a 2005 Passat TDI with 2500 miles & this car was wrecked and I recently got it back from the body shop. Well I now have a transmission problem. When I first take off the car feels like it is in a high gear. Then the transmission will slip.
I have taken the car to the local VW dealer and they have given me the following information.
-Incorrect Ratio 4th gear #Code P0736 & 17110
-Incorrect Ratio 5th gear #Code P0735 & 17118
This leaves me with two options according to VW.
1. Replace the transmission
2. Replace the computer
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I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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It's a 2002 explorer, 4.0, 5R55W trans, all was fine then O/D light starts flashing, so I limp it home. Trans isn't slipping, every gear works, it does kinda bang into 4th but is otherwise normal. Took it to auto zone to have the code read, but no codes found. Disconnected battery to see if it just needed a reset maybe, let it sit for a few hours, reconnect, OD light still flashes. Borrow a different OBD2 tester, still shows no codes, still drives the same just bangs into 4th. I've read up on the solenoid pack replacement, just kind hesitant as I feel like I'm guessing at the problem and might be throwing money away.
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I have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
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A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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I was driving and the red BRAKE came on flashing and it beeped. Then the message came on saying Emergency Brake Failure - See Manual. Then the Emergency Brake light came on. Next the Antislip light came on. After a few miles another light came on - ESL or something like that. Then the ABS started kicking in almost every time I stepped on the brake. Later the trans stuck in 3rd gear.
Wouldn't upshift or downshift - even in TIP mode. I took it to the dealer the next day and they couldn't find anything wrong, so they gave it back to me and said to call baco or bring it in if it does it again. Then a week later it did the same thing except getting stuck in 3rd. Took it back again. This time the Emergency brake light was still on. They have had it since yesterday and still can't find anything wrong.
I suggested looking for a bad ground connection somewhere. They say they have done that. Battery is original but starts just fine. Also suggested battery cables.
It's a '07 B6 Wagon - 3.6L TIP ....
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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On my V6 tdi , the converter bypass coupling is closed very late : generally in the third gear arround 2200rpm. In second gear i found that the transmission slip a lot.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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Having a very pronounced hesitation/slip between 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. It happens in both "D" and "S" modes. I've had the tranny flashes and they fixed the throttle hesitation and the general harsh shifting. Still have a slip when going from 2nd to 3rd.
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RX 350 (mine is 2013) produce a slight bump in revs as you decelerate moderately going from 2nd gear to 1st? It goes away after the tranny is warmed up. Wondering if it's just a result of the cold weather.
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Recently upgraded to a 2015 DSG PP pearl white 2-door GTI. I'm really enjoying the car. It is my third GTI (MK IV, MK VI) but the first automatic. On the morning commute to work today my DSG straight up stopped working. While trying to accelerate from completely stopped at a stop light my transmission seemed to slip out of gear followed by the engine reving freely... A message appeared to "Press Brake". I had to stop my car in the middle of an intersection and then magically the transmission stuck in gear and i made it to the next stop light. Unfortunately at this light I was never able to get my car back in gear... I tried reverse as well as S mode shifting into 2nd or 3rd.
Had to get towed to the nearest dealership... at least I got to try out the carnet feature . Basically it is a glorified operator who will request a local tow truck for you. FYI.. I thought that the service would at least notify the service dept at the dealer it was being towed to (nope!). 5 hours later they gave me my car back saying that the cable between the ECU and DSG had come loose and that was the only problem.
So far the car seems to be driving like a champ again... I'm just a bit concerned as to how a cable can magically come loose and cause my car to be inoperable. The main reason I upgraded from my 2010 gti was the peace of mind that the car was going to be dependable...
A few questions... Is it feasible that a loose cable was the only issue? If so... how can a cable magically come loose after 2200 miles of driving? I could see this being an issue from the manufacturer but would think it would happen much sooner during the break in process.
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