So my wife's 2002 Passat, 1.8T, is acting weak on the interstate. Under passing conditions, it seems to lose power, and even stutters a little. Cruising and idle are both fine.
It has blinked the check engine light at me a few times when the stuttering happens, but when I check for codes, there are none stored. I replaced the plugs and coil packs about a year and a half ago.
My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
View 9 RepliesSo woke up this morning take kid to school, got about 1-2 miles from home and engine light came on and had to switch to tiptronic because seemed the engine was struggling to move the car and downshift and was able to drive somewhat fine. but at stop signs the car idle and shook slightly then taking off was a bear because it lacked power. I did notice my mpg was reading bout 10-15mpg less then normally.
I going back to bed because I work graveyard and will look at it more when I get up. but the oil looked good and wasn't any engine burning smell. the only odor i think i could smell was almost like coolant. What could be causing this?
Associated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
View 17 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 2wd 4.2l engine. With 135,000 miles I just replaced the battery about 300 miles ago and I usually tow a trailer almost always. Also I replaced the Plugs and Plug wires about 15,000 miles ago When I am towing I turn the OD off. Now the problem. I noticed that when I am not towing now that when approaching highway speeds it seems to shift back and forth from overdrive while accelerating only.
But when pulling a trailer with OD off it shifts fine. No engine codes appear. I am due to service the transmission fluid I think I have about 35,000 on the fluid now but before I do I just want to pass this that while I have the pan out. Is there anything else I should check or could this just be a issue with dirty fluid Or Possibly the drivetrain controller because I hardly ever drive without towing..
The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
My Passat stutters on start-up and the engine light comes on.... took it to a vw dealer they ran tests and said nothing was wrong with the car, yesterday the engine light was off all day it was fine then some days like today it comes back on.... its a 2001 b5.5 1.8 T with 59,500 miles, manual tranny? I mean i get the oil changed every 3k miles, using synthetic oil, air/fuel/oil filters i always change every 3k miles with the oil change, i also got a tune-up at 45k miles and get the tranny flushed and new tranny oil every 15k miles, I dunno whats up with my passat...
View 12 RepliesMY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
View 6 Replies99, 1.8T, 215K:: Drove 10 minutes fine, turned off, turned back on, stumbling to get an idle...stays steady at 900RPM (normal enough), but engine shutters, hard to accelerate (slow pickup), a bit louder... (limp-home mode)
I am thinking Air mass meter based off of old SAAB Turbo experience, and am going to get it plugged in to check codes.
On my way to pick up my stranded wife and child, don't know all the details yet. Idles fine, no warning lights but front wheels lock up when she tried to drive it. I did the brakes 2 weeks ago, so I hope it's not due to that. She said tge car would drive then lock up the front right wheel. Then go, then skid, etc...
View 7 RepliesJust started doing it last week some time and only happens when I am launching it from stop or grabbing gears hard.
This is a little idea on whats happening.. At stop light next to some random ricer.. maintaining 2500 rpms on tach
drop (stage 4) clutch on green
Car squeaks and dies out like a stall and dash lights flash as well as lights on controll/radio area (around abs light) radio shuts off like a stall.
For the last 2 months I have been having an issue with my 2007 Passat when speeding up BUT only up hills. I have brought it to the dealer over a month ago when it was really bad on highways and it barely speed up to 60mph. So I went and got new 4 brand new tires with an alignment. Problem was still there but def. improved the, I guess I really needed new tires! But the hesitation still there, so I went again to VW and they didn't get no error or fail messages when they test drove it.
But I knew my car did not sound like that 3 months ago. So I brought it again and went with them for a test drive and the mechanic felt the hick up speeding up at 60-70 mph as well, you could even see it on the speedometer that it set back for a sec. when accelerating at 60mph but after 70 and 80mph it is riding smooth. VW mechanic only saw a high air intake when it happens and believed it was the engine speed sensor that was failing.
Yesterday I went to the VW dealer for the 5th time and they have it again all day, test drive it and now they say yes it is still doing it. Diag. laptop still shows no signs or fails. BTW, I don't have any start misfires like usually carbon build up cars get!! I did my research online but I see no other Passat's doing that kind of thing. I just don't want to continue driving it and one day my engine just cuts off...The car is balanced and just got aligned, and my steering wheel is not shaking while it happens either. I feel a little hick up from the floor/gas pedal.
I have 2008 VR6 4 motion wagon with about 98K miles. It has been relatively trouble free and I love the car. To try and make it last I am trying to stay on top of maintenance. I had a VW warranty until 72K and got several things fixed along the way. But, I had asked about the one weird thing it does well before it went out of warranty to no avail ("no trouble found").
The weird thing is that sometimes it sort of stutters when I slow down from a high rate of speed quickly, like exiting a freeway. I described it to my new mechanic (no longer beholden to the dealership mechanics) when I was speculating a new transmission might be in order at some point and he said it was probably an issue with the program that tells the transmission when to downshift and to ask about a software update. I did; none available.
Is it firmware related, how to get it fixed?
I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
View 7 RepliesBlown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
My 99B5 1.8T Auto is making some weird sounds... I heard that it is either a serious issue or just a lack of fluids. Sad to say that the same sound was coming from my Toyota Highlander right before the transmission died on it (I know, completely different vehicle; but same sound). What I can/should do about it. The sound starts in 1st, loudest in 2nd, and begins to leave around mid 3rd gear. (Again, same as the Highlander), I don't want this car to die too.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
View 2 Replies