Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Still Shaking After Road Force Balancing Wheels
Aug 3, 2012
I am growing very frustrated with the constant shake in my 2002 Passat wagon. A couple of years ago my wife had a blow out and I ended up replacing all 4 tires since it was time. I went with Michelin Primacy MXV4 (which I think the suck anyway). They have about 27000 miles. I have had the tires rotated about 3 times and the balancing always seems to go out. I purchased the tires at our local Discount tire and I have had to Road force balance them yet again. I do have a special warranty that should replace them in case one or more of them are defective. Before the last rotation the tires were fine I also had the rims inspected and they seem to be fine. I feel the shake mostly in the seat and the steering wheel does not suffer from usual side to side vibration
Another very curious thing is that they tend to shake a little bit more when I am going up hill. We live in NC and the highways are a bit hilly depending where you live. It happens in the 65 to 75 MPH range.
Everything else in the front end and suspension components seems to be fine.
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Car still vibrates between 65 on up. However it is intermittent. Sometimes it will vibrate at 70. Sometimes smooth as silk.
I got the car road force balanced all wheels are between 6-7 lbs. I am going to go to the shop have them lift it up and check the lower ball joints and all the control arms.
QUESTION: Can I just replace a ball joint or do i have to replace the entire arm? Is the ball joint connected to the control arm in any way?
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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I think I need to have them done some where else. but around 65-70mph my wheels shakes. even after alignment!!!
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2001 Dodge Stratus R/T, 5 speed manual - under load, it feels like I'm driving over warning strips in the road, and stops when I coast. The CVJ's feel and look OK. So do the wheel bearings. Could it be something in the final drive? It happens in all the gears.
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Recently I notice, when I'm going 60+ and then I need to slowdown, my steering wheel starts violently shacking. Plus I have watch with metal band and it it's making even more noise when it's starts to shake. Sometimes it's not that much to slowdown, but that shaking is too much. It's not ABS, because when ABS working you feel it in brake pedal, here is in steering wheel.
Also, I would like to mention the fact that I need to change my brakes! Now I don't know if its because of my brakes or some other problem.
Not that I need it, but this though keeps popping up every now and then. My speedometer shows 160, but I can go only 125! I was told that its some kind of chip that prevents to go higher. Is there a way to take that limit off? This question is purely for my curiosity.
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I have a 2006 scion xb with 106000 miles. It has 17" custom wheels on it. When I test drove it I noticed some vibration up front and assumed the tires were not balanced good. I rotated the tires and noticed a slight difference but it still shakes around 70-80mph. I cant feel any vibration from the back of the car. Sometimes at 65 mph it's fine, other times it will shake. Since the shake isn't at 65 all the time, could my problem be worn out struts?
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Have been battling this for months. Thought it was warped rotors, but has continued to go crazy. Truck is fine until braking at freeway speeds to 0 at about 35 front end goes crazy with shakes. Wheels physically wobble. Thought it was bearings replaced them. Put on rancho 9000 shocks replaced all steering and tie rods had aligned. Put on EDC slotted and drilled rotors with yellow stuff pads, new calipers. Each time worked for about 15 miles than started again until crazy wobble. Scaring the wife and kids to point they will no longer ride in truck. Steering is now slack need to adjust and probably need to look at everything again but it still is rectifying symptoms not problem.
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I have an issue with what sounds like the rear deck rattling in my 2010 SE Camry. I can hear it almost every time my back wheels hit any small bump in the road.
I also have subwoofers installed along with dynamat in most of the trunk (just not on the rear deck). This is my main reason for wanting this solved. The rattle is very noticeable when the bass hits in almost every song. Is that where the rattle is coming from?
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I have 2011 RX AWD and noticed when driving downhill and braking, car will shake. It feels like the wheels are shaking but the steering wheel does not. Is it rotors or something else?
Also RX is certified pre owned warranty for another 30k miles and I want to do alignment on it but not sure if warranty will cover that ?
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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I have a 1983 chevy k-10 with a 350 and a th-350 trans. Every now and then it will start violently shaking as I'm going down the road. Almost feels like it's trying to engage into 4WD. But if I pull over and stop it will quit and i can resume driving. It was like every couple of months and only when i hit a large bump but now it's becoming more and more frequent to where i can't drive it. I've replaced the u-joints on the drive shafts, the manual lockout hubs, wheel bearing etc. I had decided it had to be the transfer case but my gut keeps saying it's the ball joints even though they feel good when you check them. I want my truck back.
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I purchased a 2008 Honda CRV less than a month ago and felt it shaking every time it hit a bump in the road. Took i back to the dealer and he said strut and sway bar need replacing (it has 77,000 miles on it) and they weren't going to pay for that to be repaired.
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The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth. Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone. I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
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Noticed the seat shaking when at highway speeds or when you go over bumps in the road? When my seats are empty, they shake and make an annoying rattle, shakey noise. I had them looked at by Hyundai and was told that there was nothing that Hyundai was going to do to fix them. After battling that for a while, Hyundai did reimburse me a car payment for me to "live with it" and, quite frankly, to shut me up.
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Understandably, I've been told I need to rotate my tires more frequently. I've also been told that when I have the tires rotated, they should be balanced as well. I have the skills (minimal) to removed a tire from one location and put it on another location, but I don't have the skills or equipment to balance them. Should I, in fact, balance them as well, and if so, how frequently should the rotation/balancing occur? This is a 2006 Honda CR-V with 75k miles on it.
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I have 2010 Prius II, 26000 miles. Will the dashboard tell me when to get the wheel balancing done? I did tell me about the air pressure and oil maintenance. Also, what about tire rotation? after how many miles shall i go for it?
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I had alignment & tire balance/rotation done on my 2005 Camry 4-cyl. Going 60 MPH or above, I can feel a slight vibration on the steering wheel.
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I've just won a 2009 LS460L with 60k, at an auction, with very minimal damage to the front. Ill need to replace bumper cover, grill, hood and lights. I am pretty stoked about it.
The LS460 looks sort of unbalanced with the sides and the rear, and a higher front end. I've searched and search but I am looking for a picture, only added a front lip to sort of balance it out. I dont want a full kit, just not my thing. Just the front.
As for grill. While getting front end painted, I plan on doing similar style, a user here did. This is plastidip but of course ill be painting it. I also noticed on here, someone else had their bumper painted but had them paint his grill as well, but he painted the chrome grill housing. I like that chrome accent and plan on keeping it.
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I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
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