Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Some Fuses Are Missing?
Mar 18, 2011
I have just bought the Passat 2002 TDI AVF engine. When I open the fuse box cover and look at the scheme, I can conclude that some fuses are missing. Probably I don't understand the symbols' meanings. For example the fuse 41 is missing, but my ABS works. But I have the ESP so though that is the same device probably the fuse 42 is for ABS too. Then, the fuse 9 is missing, and my car has the mirror heat function. How can I test do they work? Does the little symbol on the heat switch become yellow when they work? Fuse 10 is missing if I understood the symbol was for CD. My car has Charger in the back and it works.
The last thing is fuse 1. What is this fuse for? Is it for headlight washer, and if is, what is the fuse 3 for? I disregarded the possibility that some cars may have the washing water heater and it is may be for that. My car doesn't have either headlights washer or water heater. The fuse 18 is for long beam and signal lamp, it is obvious.
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Car is a 2002 b5.5 1.8t sedan.
Bought the DDM Tuning HIDs, 3500k 35w for the fogs, installed with no problems. Also ordered the 5000k 35w for the low beams. Installed them, they flickered on for a second, then nothing. Let the ballasts charge for a while but still nothing. Called DDM, they said my car needs a error code eliminator kit thing later they were at my doorstep. Plugged one side in, flicked on then nothing. Thought both sides might need the code eliminators plugged in...wrong. both flickered on, and then nothing. Tried again, no flicker, both low beam fuses burned. Plugged the regular bulbs in, changed the fuses, lights working again.
I don't know much about electrical, but DDM said i def don't need a relay kit. Do I need a relay kit? Or would putting higher amperage fuses in the place of the original ones work? if so what amperage?
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2007 F-150 4x4 reg cab
Trying to get my trailer plug to work. Don't have a owners manual. Looked in fuse box, fuses 104 , 114 , 107 and 118 are missing?
Need to know what they are? Also look for fuse numbers that have anything to do with trailer plug.
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I have a 2002 Passat 1.8T. It has been acting funny for a couple weeks now. It seems to be missing, then last night I took off from a four way stop and the engine light started to blink and the car was loosing power and not really taking any throttle. I managed to get it into a parking lot then I popped the hood and first noticed the inside of the turbo was lit up bright red. Now I dont know if this was cause from me trying to throttle it to get into the parking lot while it was loosing power or if my problem is the turbo or maybe an exhaust issue. I hooked up the diagnostic tool and the only thing read was P0303 for cylinder 3 so I dont know if the misfire was from the loosing power or if this is my issue.
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My car recently had its timing belt changed, it's got about 83k miles. up until then there had been some oil loss, but there was some leaking found around the valve covers so the gaskets were done. my mechanic did a full tb change, including the water pump. he said that the coolant was pretty cloudy when he changed it too.
When I got the car back, the coolant filled the tank to about half. it was running and warmed up (had just been driven about an hour) at the time. this was a couple weeks ago. i haven't driven the car since then as its my wife's ride. today, after i got to work (hour on the highway) and turned the car off, i checked the coolant level. it was at the min line.
Now of course, my first thought is "oh crap, am i really gonna have to do a head gasket now?" But I'm wondering what else might be going on, particularly after a TB change. Also, the car has been running kind of like crap as of late. I changed out the spark plugs, which were clearly OEM, and that worked immensely, but after a ride on the highway for an hour it's a bit rough getting off the highway. Dunno if it's related - my mechanic also thinks i need to replace my wires too, so perhaps it's just that.
So far it doesn't look like my oil is being consumed, though i need to pay more careful attention to that as the days go on. i do get a burning coolant (i think. could be oil, but I'm pretty sure it's coolant) smell from the vents when i warm start the car and turn on the heat. it goes away in about a minute or so. when i first got the car back, my mechanic said it was due to the coolant he spilled all over the engine, but after two weeks i wonder if it isn't something else. i suppose it could be, but the car's been driven about 400 miles since and i would think it would be gone by now. maybe i need to clean the engine to be sure? So, questions:
1) Is it possible that there was some air in the system, and that the air worked its way out, causing the overall level to go down?
2) Are there any likely areas of the TB job that could cause this? i don't recall it ever consuming coolant before, and at this rate, i certainly would have, i should think - we had the car for a year before this.
3) The car had a bit of sludging in it - guess is that it never had anything but dino oil before. So I changed it out with some 502 rated oil and my mechanic advised me to drive it hard every so often and then change it out before my normal interval. today i put it into manual mode and got my rpms up around 6000. could the high rpms have led to consumption in some way?
At this point i'd like to collect as much info as i can about this before making any decisions about how to proceed.
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Need location of the fuses for 12V power in dash.
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02 f350 xl with factory cd player. I have power going to the unit like the clock but will not turn on completely. I have checked all the radio fuses and they are fine. I also swapped another factory radio from another one of my trucks and it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
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My fog lights were working perfectly but I got the dumb idea that I wanted to turn them yellow. I bought some Hella Yellowstar 55w bulbs and installed them. Fogs worked for a couple of hours then I noticed that they wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 15A fuse and once again it worked fine for a couple of hours before I blew another fuse. Now every time I replace the fuse it blows as soon as I switch the fogs on. Was I correct in thinking that 55w was the wattage of the stock lights? Also I understand that you're not supposed to touch the bulb itself as oil on your fingers will heat up once the light is on and cause this problem. Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the stock bulbs and replace the fuse again and see if they work.
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I've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
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My high beam doesnt work. I have a Euro Passat with H7. I bought new H7 yesterday but still no luck.
I have switched fuses to new ones.
Is there anything else I can check?
Is there relays on this model for the high beams?
Low beams works fine and everything else in lights.
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Just replaced intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets - Put car back together and now it will 'start' but kills almost right away and the engine sounds like it is missing real bad - checked plug hook up of course. Was told we should not have moved the fuel rail (which we had). I think it sounds like the timing chain is off, but we did not touch that (according to my friend who did most the work).
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we just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
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I have a problem with a 2002 Mercury sable. At idle and under acceleration, it has a miss, it's worse when cold then improves when it's warm but never goes away and almost seems to come and go when driving. It's definitely worse going slow or idling. The check engine light is also on, I scanned the codes and it came up with 4 cylinders misfiring. codes were p0301 p0302 p0303 p0305 p0316 to be specific. I changed the spark plugs last weekend, how it ran at all is something I'll never understand they were so bad, obviously original with 150,000 miles on the engine.
It's a little better now but not much. Where I should look next? I've been told a lot of things but I can't keep throwing money at this, I'm unemployed so really the next major attempt is probably the last. Anything I should try? If it was carbureted with the old distributor I'd have this fixed in no time but fuel injection and computers, coil packs, all totally new to me. No white smoke out the exhaust, no funny noises just a miss and check engine light with only the codes above.
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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In the past 4 months, I have had a issue with my car. I have had a miss in my car and I can't find out whats going on with it. I have changed the plugs, coil packs, crank sensor, but it still has a miss. One or two of my plugs looked like they had fouled out, when I changed them before putting new ones in it. I am really getting frustrated with it. I also changed the fuel pump. What to do with my car since it is my only means of transportation with getting my son to school.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I just had my tork converter and flex plate replaced on my 2002 Explorer XLT, it has the v8 with 5 speed auto trans. My question is this : on the bottom of the bell housing under the tork converter is a round hole aprox 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. Should there be a plug or cover of some sore to keed dirt and debri from getting in ?
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 that sometimes has a miss upon acceleration but not all the time.the truck is a 4.6 with a manual trans.has no engine codes and scanner never show a misfires but sometimes it does , have replaced all spark plugs and coil boots twice.
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I have a 2002 7.3l with 229k miles. So I am having a big problem now missing oil! My reservoir is empty and my dip stick is reading low, and i just put 16 quarts in yesterday with the new filter! im having a long start issue obviously because i don't have any oil supply! just drove the truck today, ran great been having this issue for the past week. here are the details. i came up from Texas after installing joeys t500 pump, when i arrived to California there was oil everywhere! my pump that joey rebuilt had an issue so he sent me another and bam! runs great no probs, now after about to weeks and about 15 degree temp drop i get hard starting. first time instead of a 2 second start up it took 9 seconds, now it takes anywhere from 9-20 seconds to start! so after my drive today i let it sit for about 3 hours seeing if maybe i had air in the lines from the res not being full, well now i cant get a start at all my res is empty and my dipstick shows little oil, i just replaced the icp. ipr, and eot when i put the first pump in, could this be the lpop?
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The other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
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