I have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
View 2 RepliesYesterday my car gave me a "STOP" alert on the display screen along with the error light for overheating (the red thermometer). But I had only driven a couple of blocks on a cold engine and the temperature gauge was dead cold. I opened the hood and everything was still there (nothing visible or smellable that looked like a problem) and found that I was able to restart the car and drive to work normally.
Same thing leaving work. The rest of the night the car was fine afterwards (those were engine restarts on a warm engine). I added a quart of water to the coolant and it seems to be okay today. The car has never gone over 190 on the temperature gauge, even driving in the desert or mountains with a/c on.
So that's my problem and possible solution. I was really surprised that the car was telling me to add a quart of water with the urgent "STOP" message. I thought that message was reserved for situations when the engine needed to be shut down immediately.
My mechanic looked at it last night and didn't find anything with the stored error messages that was useful.
How to stop the ticking coming from my hazard button on my 2002 Passat? I tried pulling the button out itself but I am wondering If I have to pull the entire radio console out. Relay issue maybe?
View 1 RepliesI have a vw passat '02 w/100k miles the coolant light came on back in early dec. and I purchased a coolant recommended to me -Zerex dex cool and added very little. It was running fine until Monday morning when it was -5. I added some more and the engine light came on after driving for 3 minutes. I did notice that there was 'froth' inside on the cap when I opened the coolant reservoir. Is the engine light on because of the coolant or it it something else?
View 8 RepliesI noticed my 2002 Camry XLE was overheating and discovered that I had lost a lot of coolant. I topped off the radiator with pink 50/50 and went for a little drive, after parking I noticed a slow coolant drip that would eventually stop.
I took it into a shop, and they did a pressure test and found the leak was from SOMEWHERE behind the intake manifold. They also told me that it may be a "common" problem in my year that the threads in the cylinder block are pulling out, causing the cylinder head to lift and coolant to leak. They claim that they have to pull of the the valve cover gasket and inspect the torque for the headbolts, if they're loose I'd need to replace the engine block (!!!)
My thoughts are that it must be coming from somewhere near the intake manifold. I just had it replaced five months ago and am thinking something went wrong in the process.
I guess my questions are, is the bolt loosening thing legit? I'm not burning off coolant (have checked exhaust and it's clean, not white or anything). And what if anything could have gone wrong in replacing the intake manifold to cause said leak?
I have a 2002 VW passat sometimes at a stop light the car seems to just die, stop, the engine just stops, I have checked/ Replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, I am stuck.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 260,000 miles on it. It started randomly overheating this hot summer we have been having. We change the thermostat and flushed the coolant/radiator and still overheats. I do not see any leaking on the garage floor but am loosing coolant and need to put more in about every 14 days. I do a lot of highway driving. What should I look at next?
View 3 RepliesI have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
View 1 RepliesI have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
I am getting a check engine light about every 4 days. It is stupid suff like secondary air, or catalytic below efficency... Is there any way to prevent the light from coming on over these faults? I think it would cost me some serious money to fix everything it needs to keep the light from coming on. As you all know, once you fix one thing something else breaks.
View 6 RepliesLast week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
View 4 Replies I was cleaning my passat the other day and I took my air filter out, however I didn't disconnect the wires and hoses on top of the box, I just raised the top cover up and pulled the filter out and cleaned it and checked it and put it back in, I also took out the cabin filter out and cleaned it and put it back in too, then I started the car and took it for a ride and the car started over heating, it keeps giving me STOP CHECK COOLANT warning and the temperature rises all the way to max RED.
I check the coolant level is at level and the radiator fans are spinning, however I noticed the lower hose that goes from reservoir to the radiator is cooler than the other hoses, what could be the problem? The water in the reservoir is hot too, could this be from a faulty thermostat? a sensor? or somewhere I read there is a fuse somewhere in the engine bay? I'm not too familiar with these 1.8t engines, the temp sensor was acting funny before too like sometimes it would go all the way to zero and stay there and go up and go down to zero and then raise, which I think there might be a bad connection or bad sensor.
I forgot to add the car is a 2003 1.8T.
Mk4 Jetta Gli 1.8t , car was over heating only when sitting 5+ minutes at idle, mechanic said the big fan needed replaced so he replaced it. Car still over heated so i replaced the coolant with G13. It hasn't over heated yet but got in the car this morning and the coolant light started flashing and car was telling me to STOP the car. Checked out the coolant and it was on the low side. What it may be? Leak somewhere? Bad thermostat or water pump gone bad? Timing belt and water pump were done when i bought the car when it had less than 50k miles, car now has 99k miles on it.
View 7 RepliesI own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
View 3 RepliesBefore someone says "normal" I know the low temp light is supposed to come on until the car reaches normal operating temp My problem is really strange and my mechanic and I are both perplexed. I have a 2008 Yaris automatic sedan with 98K miles on it.
The symptoms:
After driving for quite a while (30 minutes or more at times) the low temp light will come on... and sometimes goes right out... and sometimes goes on for a while.
If the check engine light isn't already on - it will eventually go on.
Sometimes with the low temp light is on - it will race the engine (just straight high rev) OR it will pulse the engine (like I am pumping the gas peddle) OR it will not let the car shift into high gear (rare). Remember... all of this happens after the car has been running for while so it warmed up.
What we've tried (over a 4 week period now):
The error code indicates to replace the thermostat - so we've replaced it... twice. We've replaced the actual low temp sensor. We've checked the wiring between the sensors and the computer - wiring does not appear to have a short. Last week we replaced the computer with a used one, but the same problem still exists with a replaced computer...
What the mechanic says now:Might be an air conditioning thing running the fan too long?
Can you really run a fan so long it will drop the car temp back to below the low range operating temperature while driving on a highway? That seems pretty unlikely to me.... If it were just a flickering light, I wouldn't be so concerned... but because it revs the engine (even when I am at a stop light and I have to push the brake harder so it won't start moving) and it sometimes wont shift into high gear... it's concerning from a safety perspective.
Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
View 7 RepliesI have a '97 Buick Century. I noticed the smell of coolant, and the "Low Coolant" light flashed on the dashboard. However, according to the temp gauge on the dashboard, the car was at normal temperature. I pulled over and opened the hood. The coolant in the overflow tank (not the radiator) was boiling, and sputtering out.
I took the vehicle to a nearby shop, where they said it needed a new "Coolant Level Switch." They told me they put a new one in and did a coolant flush, and sent me on my way.
About a mile down the road, the "Low Coolant Light" came on again. I pulled over and found that there was ZERO coolant in the engine. I filled it myself, and continued driving. Over the next few days, I checked the coolant every day and it stayed normal. I drove a bit, but never more than a few minutes, so the car didn't have a chance to overheat.
Then, today, I drove it a good distance for the first time since the original incident. After a few minutes of driving, I smelled coolant and pulled over. The coolant in the overflow tank was once again boiling and bubbling out. What it might be?
Car was running fine on friday when I left for detroit, it sat in my driveway all weekend, but on the way to work this morning I get a warning light to STOP and my temp gauge is right below 260. It took about 10 miles for the light to come on and the car does NOT overheat while idling. The car is only at 52k and I have not replaced the water pump/timing belt yet.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8t with 90,000 miles on it. I have it serviced for new Timing belt and water pump (metal impeller, according to the shop) 3 months ago at this shop. The overheating problems never went away. The problem is that it overheating at heavy traffic or idle after a while or after heavily drive, but it cools off quickly when I rev up the engine a little bit, or after getting out of traffic again.
I have another shop diagnosed, they first told me the cooling system is leaking and may trapped air inside so they did replace thermostat, coolant housing assembly, flange seal, pipe sealing o-ring. they re-test and turn out there is no coolant flow and suggest that is it the water pump that fail and ask me to go back to the original shop for the Water Pump warranty. Additionally, they flow test radiator and its fine.
I did return the car back to the original shop and they tested and said the heater core is clogged with debris and that would cause the overheating. They asked me to replace the whole heater core that would cost $1500. But I know for the fact that I have heating in the car and it is hot!
Is there any other reason than what have been replaced or tested (thermostat, radiator, air trap, new coolant)? I think it could be the aux cooling fan since its never turn on when overheating, only when AC is turn on, is it supposed to work this way? Spent too much on this car and hopelessly the problems went away but it's not.