Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Oil Mixing With Coolant?
Apr 16, 2011
Before we all jump on head gasket, let me ask something. Correct me if I am wrong but there are three places in a 2002 Passat 1.8T where these could mix, head, oil cooler, and turbo, correct? The reason I ask is the cars performance has not been affected at all, still running perfect minus this problem.
Start the car, within 10 minutes you lose about a half quart to a quart of oil into the cooling system. Oh this is a family members car, not my own.
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My son and I just rebuilt a '99 4.6L motor. A complete overhaul.
After running the motor for 15-25 minutes, I removed the oil filter and discovered a milky substance as I emptied it. I emptied the oil pan and found more water in the oil.
We removed the oil pan and did a coolant system pressure test, but didn't see any coolant coming from the bottom of the engine.
Is there anywhere other than the head gaskets where the 2 can mix or is this a normal occurrence during the break in period? The truck has not been driven anywhere yet.
I did not replace the head bolts with brand new. They were torqued properly tho.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, 3.4 engine. Mileage is at about 235k. About a month ago I had to replace the radiator because the car was overheating. Not even a week later, the low coolant light was on (even after I filled the reservoir) and the car was once again getting really close to overheating. I took it back to the mechanic who replaced the radiator. He checked and said the head gaskets were bad. He showed me where they were cracked/torn and showed me that I had coolant mixing with my oil. I haven't had the money to fix it, so since then the car has been sitting in my garage.
I have drove it maybe 5-8 times though (to the grocery store down the street, etc.) Should I even invest anymore into this car, considering the age, mileage and problems (fyi, the car was in an accident so there's some body damage to the hood, front fender, the a/c isn't working)? Would replacing the gaskets or buying a used engine be a smart move? Or is it better to purchase another car? I only have about 3k to go towards another car, so I'm kind of afraid I'll get another one and it will have the same (or worse) problems.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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I have a vw passat '02 w/100k miles the coolant light came on back in early dec. and I purchased a coolant recommended to me -Zerex dex cool and added very little. It was running fine until Monday morning when it was -5. I added some more and the engine light came on after driving for 3 minutes. I did notice that there was 'froth' inside on the cap when I opened the coolant reservoir. Is the engine light on because of the coolant or it it something else?
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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I have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
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My car recently had its timing belt changed, it's got about 83k miles. up until then there had been some oil loss, but there was some leaking found around the valve covers so the gaskets were done. my mechanic did a full tb change, including the water pump. he said that the coolant was pretty cloudy when he changed it too.
When I got the car back, the coolant filled the tank to about half. it was running and warmed up (had just been driven about an hour) at the time. this was a couple weeks ago. i haven't driven the car since then as its my wife's ride. today, after i got to work (hour on the highway) and turned the car off, i checked the coolant level. it was at the min line.
Now of course, my first thought is "oh crap, am i really gonna have to do a head gasket now?" But I'm wondering what else might be going on, particularly after a TB change. Also, the car has been running kind of like crap as of late. I changed out the spark plugs, which were clearly OEM, and that worked immensely, but after a ride on the highway for an hour it's a bit rough getting off the highway. Dunno if it's related - my mechanic also thinks i need to replace my wires too, so perhaps it's just that.
So far it doesn't look like my oil is being consumed, though i need to pay more careful attention to that as the days go on. i do get a burning coolant (i think. could be oil, but I'm pretty sure it's coolant) smell from the vents when i warm start the car and turn on the heat. it goes away in about a minute or so. when i first got the car back, my mechanic said it was due to the coolant he spilled all over the engine, but after two weeks i wonder if it isn't something else. i suppose it could be, but the car's been driven about 400 miles since and i would think it would be gone by now. maybe i need to clean the engine to be sure? So, questions:
1) Is it possible that there was some air in the system, and that the air worked its way out, causing the overall level to go down?
2) Are there any likely areas of the TB job that could cause this? i don't recall it ever consuming coolant before, and at this rate, i certainly would have, i should think - we had the car for a year before this.
3) The car had a bit of sludging in it - guess is that it never had anything but dino oil before. So I changed it out with some 502 rated oil and my mechanic advised me to drive it hard every so often and then change it out before my normal interval. today i put it into manual mode and got my rpms up around 6000. could the high rpms have led to consumption in some way?
At this point i'd like to collect as much info as i can about this before making any decisions about how to proceed.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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A retired friend of mine has a 1995 Buick Century with a busted head gasket. Oil is leaking and mixing with the antifreeze. It has roughly 140,000 miles. At the moment he does take it on short trips around the neighborhood.
He has maintained it religiously. It has new brakes, etc. And two years ago he had a rebuilt transmission installed. He still likes the car. And aside from the head gasket everything else runs well on it. Would it be worth fixing? Installing a rebuilt engine?
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OK to put the Motorcraft Anti-freeze in my radiator straight without mixing?
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A co-worker has an issue with a 2002 Chevy Blazer where the oil is mixed with the coolant. My understanding is the usual causes of this are blown head gasket, cracked cylinder head, or cracked engine block. If the cause is a head gasket, they'll probably fix it. Cracked cylinder head makes fixing it iffy. A cracked engine block probably means junking the vehicle. Is there a fairly inexpensive way of determining the cause?
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I noticed my 2002 Camry XLE was overheating and discovered that I had lost a lot of coolant. I topped off the radiator with pink 50/50 and went for a little drive, after parking I noticed a slow coolant drip that would eventually stop.
I took it into a shop, and they did a pressure test and found the leak was from SOMEWHERE behind the intake manifold. They also told me that it may be a "common" problem in my year that the threads in the cylinder block are pulling out, causing the cylinder head to lift and coolant to leak. They claim that they have to pull of the the valve cover gasket and inspect the torque for the headbolts, if they're loose I'd need to replace the engine block (!!!)
My thoughts are that it must be coming from somewhere near the intake manifold. I just had it replaced five months ago and am thinking something went wrong in the process.
I guess my questions are, is the bolt loosening thing legit? I'm not burning off coolant (have checked exhaust and it's clean, not white or anything). And what if anything could have gone wrong in replacing the intake manifold to cause said leak?
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I recently bought a 2002 prius with 65000 mi. I have been driving it for a few weeks and everything seems to be working good. I noticed there was no engine coolant in the reserve bottle and added a quart to bring it to the full line. The next day I noticed leaking coolant, but it is on the drivers side where I believe only the inverter components are. I really don't know though. The engine coolant level has dropped down. Does the engine coolant flow over on the drivers side? I cant tell exactly where the leak is.
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I noticed today when I was in a drive thru that ,y Jetta was smoking a little.... Went home ate my food and came out and looked underneath the Jetta and found a substantial coolant leak..... My heater core is bad I know this already... Would this cause coolant to leak outside the car or the carpet only??? I jacked up the car and checked for leaks... There is coolant all over the rear engine mount... And the driver side corner of the engine is pretty soaked in coolant....I can't pin point the leak..... There is a connection coming out of the side of the head that's got a little pinky crusty stuff on it but I can't see anywhere around it...
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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I got home tonight and smelled coolant. Looked under the car, coolant everywhere. I see the issue: a big hose (maybe 2" in diameter) has a tear in it and is spraying out coolant. I'm going to replace it, but once I do, how should I add coolant back into the radiator? Do I just pour it into the overflow?
2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder
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I read in the owners manual that the engine antifreeze should be an ethylene glycol type. I believe that Prestone makes this type of coolant in a 50/50 mix. Is that correct? Also, what type of coolant does the inverter use? I want to try and stay away from buying it at a dealer. Also, my gen 1 has 117,000 miles and I must admit that I have been slacking with the maintenance. My gas mileage is down to 40/mpg compared to 48-49mpg when I got the car two years back with 40k. I am pretty sure the original auxillary batter is still in it, so I order a new one today. I also plan an changing the transaxle fluid, PCV valve, air filter, and cabin filter. The plugs where changed at 80,000 miles. Where can I order a gasket for the transaxle pan? I intend on dropping it and cleaning it out. Do you think this will get the gas milage back up?
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 260,000 miles on it. It started randomly overheating this hot summer we have been having. We change the thermostat and flushed the coolant/radiator and still overheats. I do not see any leaking on the garage floor but am loosing coolant and need to put more in about every 14 days. I do a lot of highway driving. What should I look at next?
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It has 197k and change.It's not throwing any codes whatsoever. I can drive it all day and it wont overheat as long as I keep it under 2000 rpm.If I take it over 2000 rpm, it slowly heats up, but I can cool it down by slowing down. I can do like 50 mph max without it threatening to overheat. I've never let it get above 3/4 without pulling over and letting it cool off (I know how heads like to warp and crack).
Rubbery sludge in coolant reservoir (almost positive it's oil) but absolutely NO coolant in the oil, there never has been. I do all the oil changes myself and check it quite often. I've been keeping the reservoir full but it loses coolant daily (no leaks on ground anywhere, ever. I've already removed the reservoir and cleaned it out several times, but since it has more than one chamber it's almost impossible to fully clean without replacing. The hose that runs from the top chamber to the bottom blows off from time to time (I finally put hose clamps on it). I've flushed the cooling system several times but still the sludge comes back. I've removed and cleaned the thermostat (still good) and housing (had very little sludge). I flushed out the heater core but the heat is still weak.
Makes a loud whistling noise at idle, the noise literally stops every time I give it gas. (this is where I was thinking Intake Manifold Gasket, maybe vacuum leak) You gotta love these plastic manifolds. BUT it's idling low (650 rpm once fully warmed up) not bogging or sputtering whatsoever. Fans are working completely fine. It loses oil but again, no leaks on the ground whatsoever. I thought at first it was burning it (high mileage, worn piston rings) until I noticed the coolant reservoir was gunked (wasn't very long and I know I didn't mix different kinds. I check everything (more than regularly) and it loses quite a bit of oil.
Before everyone says head gasket, it isn't losing much power (if any at all), no white exhaust, and as mentioned before there's no coolant in the oil.Whatever it is, I can repair it myself but before I tear this thing a new one replacing gaskets and seals I'd like to be completely sure.
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I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with 134,00 miles. About a month ago there was a large coolant leak in the middle part of the engine. My mechanic replaced the coolant by-pass hose from the thermostat housing under exhaust manifold to engine block. A few days ago there was another leak around where the coolant reservoir is. Gauge read hot and had to top off coolant on way to repair shop. Topped off reservoir and next morning most of the coolant had drained out. My mechanic has done a pressure check, drove the car, let it sit and idle for up to an hour and there was no leak or overheating.
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