Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Low Engine Oil Pressure Alarm When Went Round A Curve
Dec 14, 2008
My 2002 Passat 1.8T just turned over 100K miles and coming home from a long ride the other day I went round a curve and got the STOP-low engine oil pressure alarm. I immediately stopped and checked the oil and it was full. I restarted the car and the alarm was gone so I drove on home and around a few more days.
Then last weekend it happened again. Now if I crank it up and try to drive up the hill it comes on. Having it towed in the morning to the shop. Is it just a bad oil pump, bad censor, stopped up oil screen or what?
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I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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I have received this alert a few times while driving - it lasts a few seconds and then goes off. My mechanic says oil pressure is good and suspects erroneous message. I also received that message once while the engine was not running, ignition on, listening to the radio. This seems t support erroneous message.
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OK i have a 2001 2002 passat with factor alarm. I though since i have over came my problems with it, id let all those that are going through the pain of not being able to lock there car without the alarm going off a few pointers! OK what i did....
1). Firstly checked all micro switches in doors, by opening them and seeing how the internal lights reacted - eg if the light came on when door is opened, was there a delay?. IF there is a delay ur mirco switch might be on the way out and could be causing problems.
2). Don't forget there is a micro switch on the bonnet and boot lids as well.
3). I also checked the comfort control panel which is under the passengers front floor (there is issues with the drain holes around the batter blocking and letting water into the inside of the car and flooding the comfort control panel (alarm panel). I HAD KINDA this problem and had to unblock these drain holes.
4). If ALL these are ok and working the have a look near the battery and just under the heater pipes there is the alarm system speaker with back up battery! (I flooded this area when washing my car - or in the rain as the water was not draining as it was blocked! hence shorting out my battery and speaker! Causing the alarm to go off ALL the time!)
[URL] .....
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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So my remote and main key got into a washing machine...Put new batteries in it but no go. Car does not start with either main key or valet. When I unlock the driver side door with either key, engine does not start and alarm goes off immediately. From searching the forums I assume I have 15 seconds from opening door and I am well within 15 seconds. Remote should not be necessary as transponder used to validating key is a passive RFID in the key part.
Dealership so far has been unuseful. I told them I can't start the car and they said yeah come in and we'll program you a new remote. When I got there (by motorcycle) they told me they need the car. It's a 2000 Passat GLX V6.
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How good the alarm on a B6 is. I mean, it goes off when the doors are opened and the alarm is on...but how easy is it to steal a Passat.
I wanna put a navi in and do a few things...but I just don't feel ok doing them and knowing I don't have a GREAT alarm.
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
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The 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
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I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
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A friend of mine has an '04 Touareg and the tire pressure alarm keeps coming on. He has checked the pressure and it is fine. Took it into the shop and it wasn't giving any codes. It seems that it keeps setting off the alarm intermittently.
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Last night I found out my car can "sense" when I have low pressure in my tires as it sounded an alarm. It was right my back driver side tire must have a slow leak because it was down to 25 PSI. I looked in my manual and on my inside panel of my driver side door but couldn't find anywhere what the correct pressure should be. I checked all my tires. My two front, which are brand new tires came it at 38 PSI, my passenger side back was at 35. So I filled the other back tire back up to 35 and reset the low tire pressure alarm. Got up this morning and the tire was down to around 30, so off to the tire shop on Saturday. But where can I find out what is the best PSI for the four tires.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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Just had new tire installed and now noticing that the original stem cap was not used. Alarm is not lit, but wondering if I should try to retrieve the original one, since we notified the tire shop that afternoon......or purchase a new one.
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I have a 2007 F150 Screw lariat and have swapped the factory 20" wheels for a set of18" FX4 wheels. Question is how do i get the light on the dash to go off?? I swapped these tires and wheels 2 weeks ago and never got a light.. now tonight I get a light? I don't know if the 18" have pressure sensors in them or not..Wouldn't I have gotten a light right away?
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One of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
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As I was getting on the highway today, I heard a loud warning bell and my MFD displayed "Oil Pressure High. ENGINE OFF!". It lasted all of 5 seconds and then disappeared. Car seemed fine (other than the usual ticks and annoyances).
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On a city drive <10 minutes I get the STOP Engine warning, and Low oil pressure. I pull over, and my dip stick is dry, NO OIL! My car is just over 20K miles, and we just had it in for the service less than 5 K miles ago. There was no visible oil leaks, nor was there a pool of oil in the driveway.
Had similar problem with my 02, but it had 90K miles.
Is this possibly related to the PCV issue I read in another thread? Or are my seals just leaking? I added oil to get home, and then threw in some stop leak - seal conditioner.
04 Passat GLX Wagon....
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I think my oil pump bolt died today. Strange enough it happened when I was parking my car at work. I am sure it could be something else but its near the mileage that if it didn't happen early in its life it would happen around now. About 65k miles on my 07 3.6L 4MO
I have brand new 2011 2.5SE Jetta for loaner....
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I drive a 2000 VW Passat 1.8T. The car has about 93K on it. One day I was driving downtown and my ENGINE OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT COMES ON telling me low oil pressure STOP THE ENGINE before I could stop the engine the damn thing went dead and wouldn't start back, but it sounded like it wanted to start I never had this happen to me before so I got it towed to a VW dealership they were like I have never seen this happen before so they did what they normally do and came back and said that they cannot fine anything wrong and told me that they have a guy that comes in like twice a week and know everything about those type of car and he should know what the problem is?
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