Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Interior Flooding After Sunroof Drain Clog
Jan 26, 2007
The sunroof drain clogged on my '02 Passat and caused major damage to my electrical system. Its at the dealership being repaired and insurance does not want to pay to have carpet replaced. They will pay for the padding but not the carpet, the problem is they say the carpet and padding are one piece and both would have to be replaced. I am worried that if all it is not replaced I will have a stinky moldy smell in the middle of summer.
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My 2000 Passat's interior is flooding, however it is only in the read driver side floor and it is coming from the vent that is down there... I looked under the battery and vacuumed and cleaned it out... I can't seem to remove the black box on the right side under the hood next to the battery, it holds the ECU I believe. nor can I figure out where the flooding is coming from.
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As stated above, where are the rear drains located? Do I have to remove the rear fender?
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I recently just bought a 99 Passat wagon and none of the interior lights (dome/vanity/passenger lights) work and the sunroof does not operate. I checked the fuses and bulbs, all are good. Is there some where else I should be looking before I break down and buy a voltmeter?
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I have a 02 1.8t passat that if I don't start it for two days the battery will be totally dead. I have taken it to two places and they cant find what the draw is. The only thing that i could think of is my horn that sometimes when I am in the car it goes of randomly and my right side mirror that sometimes runs on. And my other problem is that when I drive it and I get to 3500rpm the throttle body shots of and I loose all my boost. I got a new turbo installed trying to fix the problem but still keeps happening. The only thing I could think of is that i have a stage 1 revo flash and when I took the old turbo out it may have erased the memory of the flash.
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There was a really good write up on how to go about replacing the sunroof drain line on the forum, yet I'm having troubles finding it. Been using the search function for the last hour with no luck. Finding the write up I'm referring to? I do remember it has an odd post title.
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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I was driving my '02 Passat 1.8T home yesterday, and I noticed the steering wheel controls for the sound system weren't working. I thought nothing of it, believing that it was a fuse. I also noticed the my radar detector wasn't on, but was plugged in. So the cig lighter wasn't working either. Hmm. I got home, and pulled into my driveway, and then noticed that the HomeLink garage door opener wasn't functioning either. It was late so I just left the car outside for the night, planning to work on it the next day. Today, I went to go get my friend (I didn't have time to check on the problem), and when I honked for him to come outside, the HORN wouldn't work. At that point, I went home, popped open the fuse box, and checked all the corresponding fuses. And whaddaya know, all the fuses are fine. Yet, still, nothing work.
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The sunroof drains on my '02 wagon clogged, causing water to start dripping out of the overhead console. ARF! The repair is gonna cost me a lot. What sounds really strange is that the mechanic tells me that the outlets from the drain tubes are slightly crimped. This makes them impossible to flush and requres removal of the headliner and interior A-pillar trim sot that the hoses can be pulled and replaced. The mechanic then tells me that he will cut off the crimped portion of the tube outlets to enable them to flow freely. Crimping the outlets sounds like a really stupid thing to do. What purpose could this serve?
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Fiancee's 04.5 GLI is leaking from the sunroof drain into the front passenger footwell.
The Tubes are clear, but the front passenger drain is leaking from the upper portion of the tube. I pour water down the drain and 90-95% comes out the door nipple. The other 5-10% comes down the Pillar, and then out the bottom of the glove box.
I know its coming out of the top of the drain, not the nipple at the door because I can visually see water drops inside of the pillar.
What if I make a small plug to close off the 1 corner of the drain? I understand the correct solution is to pull the headliner and reconnect it.
BUT with the holidays and chaos of this week, would a temporary solution be to close off the 1 hole? I'd do a small delrin or aluminum plug with an oring on a lathe real quic so its a water proof seal
OR if I plug it, will the water level rise too fast inside the sunroof and pour into the car? I don't know.I think the plug would be a safe solution.....
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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My 05 F150 wiper fluid nozzle is in drip mode on the drivers side, pass side works fine. Is there an easy way to unclog, without having to remove that plastic shroud that surrounds it?
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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Have an 02 explorer 4.0. Been having to add about a quart of coolant a month. Took it to the shop and they replaced the thermostat. Now water flows through the motor and comes out of the oil drain plug as fast as I put it in the radiator, the radiator never fills to the top. What could of possibly happened to cause this?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE 4 cylinder. I made a mess today, filled 13 galleons of Diesel in my gasoline Camry. It ran fine for 5 mins and then stopped.
I am planning to drain the fuel tank. I see one i hope fuel line in the hood which I plan to open using a wrench and drain the Fuel tank. Is that right?
Also do I need to do any other things immediately? I was thinking may be I will change fuel filter also.
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I have a 4bbl intake on my 390, and an edelbrock 750/w manual choke on it. #1407. I can drive this truck just fine for the most part, it has good power while using the primary two barrels. (I think the ones always in use are the primaries?) Anyways if i open all four up, pedal to the floor, but at about 45+ mph, the engine runs no problem, although it seems to drop rpm slightly once the 2nd two barrels are opened.
BUT, if I am shifting, like today example 2nd to 3rd, and floor it from the shift, it popped and died out, flooded. Happened to me twice today within an hour. the first time it flooded I'm not sure why it happened, but the second time was as stated above. Is the carb just too much and floods when floored like that? Anything I can do to eliminate this? accelerator pump setting? If I have too i'll end up buying a 600 eventually, but stick with the 750 for now...
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I purchased a 2002 Dakota and have had a hard time ridding it. I thought that the heater core was leaking and getting the passenger side floor wet, but it's the overflow for the evaporator under the dash. The drain must be plugged. Will I have to remove the dash to pull the heater unit down far enough to clean it. I don't think I can do much from under the hood...too tight.
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There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. Over 8 Hrs the battery goes from 12 to 10V and the start is real sluggish. I'm going to test the load on the battery when it is just sitting there to see if there is a short somewhere. I'm wondering what the load should be from the clock and radio which draw power even when off.
It is 4+ years old so it might be just time for a new battery..... Alternator is working....14V on the battery when the engine is running...... so there is charge form the alternator.....
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Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
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