Passat (B5) :: 2002 GLX Stalled - Small Click Inside Relay Panel But No Crank
Apr 7, 2012
B5.5. Here is what happened: Was driving as usual, running low on gas. Cluster was showing zero miles left for last 10 miles. I successfully made it to the gas station. Trying to open lid - maybe on third press it popped. I thought I'm just imagining things. Drove home another 5 miles. Trying to open trunk - same as gas lid, eventually opened. I turn engine off. No dome light. None of the dome lights working. Everything else appeared still has power. Trying to open trunk again - it's dead. Trying to start the car - does not start. Trying to go home and lock with remote - not working. Lock manually and went home.
Next morning went to check fuses - all OK. Everything still not working just the way I left it. When ignition key turned - cluster comes up. When starter should crank I can hear small click inside relay panel and lighter power turned off momentarily as usual, but no crank. No messages on cluster. Dome lights, door locks by remote and starter/engine don't work. Gas lid and trunk don't work even from driver's door. If I press power lock on driver's door it will lock and immediately unlock all doors.
I did check power on fuses. Three engine related fuses don't have 12V on them. The fuses are 28, 29 and 34, or second and third up from bottom left and fourth up in second column from bottom left. Fuses itself are good.
Here I Got my first suspect: power for all 3 fuses above coming from same relay. I thought if I jump these fuses to live 12 Volts I might be able to start engine. I did jump one fuse at the time. I've heard fuel pump came up but nothing else happened. I understand that it can also be Motronic control for this relay. I pull my OBD reader, but found no codes or freeze frames. I don't have WAG reader.
But Motronic should not affect doors and dome lights (I think so but not sure), unless CAN bus shorted or something. Lights and doors can be related to Central Control and Convenience module, which supposed to be under driver seat. I had rear driver side carped wet few times when I just bought the car, but not lately, not in 6 months. I still think water damage can occur much later after exposure.
So here are mu suspects: Engine power relay, Motronic or Convenience module. It might be something else.
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So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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2002 explorer 4.0l. No crank just click new starter in and cables hooked to battery...
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I have to repair or replace my rear window wiper/washer unit.
How do I remove the trim inside the lift gate? I saw two screws and removed them, but it's still being held in place. Is it near the indented handes? There seems to be little square plastic screw covers in there. I couldn't remove them (I was on the road) and didn't want to hack them if they weren't.
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back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
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I have to repair or replace my rear window wiper/washer unit.
How do I remove the trim inside the lift gate? I saw two screws and removed them, but it's still being held in place. Is it near the indented handes? There seems to be little square plastic screw covers in there. I couldn't remove them (I was on the road) and didn't want to hack them if they weren't.
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The horn on my 2010 golf recently went out, so I'm thinking that one of two things happened. Before the horn went out completely, one tone died, then about two months later it stopped working completely. When I press the horn, I hear a click coming from the dash. So, I think it's either a bad relay or both horns went out. How likely is it that both horns go out within a few months of each other?
Anyway, I bought a new horn relay, but how to access the relay panel located in the dash. How to remove the dash sections, or is there a good write up?
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About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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I took my '02 Passat in a couple weeks ago when the steering wheel controls and horn stopped working. They replaced a fuse. About 10 days later, I experienced the same problem. That time, they said that the steering wheel was all shorted out and needed to be replaced. Five days later, again the same problem. Now the dealer says it's some faulty switch from the fuse panel, which caused the short of the old steering wheel. Since that wasn't replaced, that's why I experienced the problem again. Could that have been the only problem? Or could that really have fried the steering wheel, too. Am I being taken, and do I need to fight to get some of that money back? Or is this legit? How can I verify that what they said was the problem actually was, and that I'm not left paying for their mistaken diagnosis?
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I have access to the fuse panel but I need to remove the panel to reach the relays. I need to change the socket in the relay panel because one is burnt out. I change the K(headlight)relay and when my car is off and key out of the ignition my lights are still on.
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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- Fuse Box - Part # 3C7T-14A067-DC Engineering Number on white label.
- Ford Dealer Part # 3C7Z-14A068-DB
I have a 2004 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4x4 that has a bad fuel pump relay. I am looking for a used replacement fuse panel.
Of all these number and letters which of them tells me the real part number? Does the last two letters mean anything "DC" or "DB"?
So I don't get one for a diesel, what is the prefix for the diesel? I am assuming the 3C7T is gas and the year model?
Also, will this fuse panel interchange with a F250/F350 6.8L or do I need to stick with a fuse panel from an Excursion?
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Owner of a 2005 Escape and trying to figure out which relay on the interior fuse panel is the Accessory Delay relay. I think this might be causing a battery drain when everything is shut down. A diagram of the relay side of the panel.
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On my way home from work today I could not believe my eyes when the Hybrid Warning Light came on…yes, the RED TRIANGLE! I was just cruising down the highway and I heard a relay click and then I saw the warning light illuminate. Also I noticed the A/C air started warming up, the fan stayed on though, so I am guessing the computer shut off the compressor?
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