Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Fuel Door Would Not Open / Actuator Replacement?
Apr 24, 2013
2002 Passat Wagon. My fuel door wouldn't open last week. Did some reading here, and found that I could manually push in the plunger to pop my door open. Great! Now I could fuel the car. I'm a bit bummed that there's no cable or some other way to manually actuate the motor. Maybe I missed it? I had to open the right cargo door and reach in and around a plastic tray to pull open the door.
Anyway, I grabbed the multi-meter, and tested the harness, while I had a buddy pull the switch. I'm getting 12v when the switch is pulled. OK, so that means the actuator is bad.
I need to remove and reinstall a new actuator. I'm not quite sure how to get enough access to get at the mounting bolts for the actuator. I assume I need to remove interior trim and molding to get at it, but I'm not sure how to do that.
The access door on the right side of the cargo bay allowed me to get my hands in there to pull the door open, and to unplug the harness, but I'm going to need to pull apart interior stuff to get at the motor.
Any pictures or directions on how to disassemble the interior trim to get at this motor?
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My '07 Elantra wont open from the outside handle, and it also wont unlock when using the key fob. Is it possible I have a bad actuator?
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I changed the actuator motor on the DS passenger door. Now the door does not open. The electronic lock moves, locks and unlocks but the door does not open from inside or outside.
After a few tries the lock tab chatters but the door still does not open. What could be wrong? As far as i know i put it back together, like i took it out.
How to take the panel off from inside then i can atleast get to the two wires that go to the lock and see if i can open the door to take the actuator out once again.
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So a friend just got a 99 Passat 1.8t and I'm trying to assist them with some issues they're having. First of all the fuel door wont open with the electronic button. I searched around and found people mentioning the fuse, but the fuse box in the dash doesn't have a fuse for the fuel door. Is it part of central convenience? The drivers window switch doesn't control the other windows and the doors don't automatically unlock, they must be unlocked individually.Is this all related? I just want to rule this out before pulling up the carpet to check the wiring.
Also when replacing the drivers turn signal the tab that connects to the spring clip snapped off. Replace only these or is a whole new assembly required?
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2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
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For some reason the dome light doesn't come on when I open the Drivers door. All the other activate the dome light just fine. Can I assume the switch is in the latching mechanism inside the door? I want to make sure I'm tearing into the correct area before I start and looking for tips as well obviously.
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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I have a 2013 VW Golf 7 and since this winter it is the second time I can't get the fuel filler cap door to open at the gas station.
First time I blame it on the freeze, yesterday on 8 degrees was not the case so there is a problem.
Does the lock system of the fuel door is different in G7 than in previous models?
How can I reach from inside the trunk to manual release the lock and check the motor is working?
As it worked until now and suddenly makes problem, could be a wire problem or actually the motor/actuator getting rusty or something?
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I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
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The door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
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The spring inside the fuel door is intact but my fuel door wont open. Ive been using the emergency release open from inside from the rear.
Does this actuator require a fuse ? how do i know if the fuel door actuator is bad?
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This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
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When I push the fuel door button down, the fuel door will not open. I always have to use the emergency release in the drunk. The trunk release button works just fine?
Do you think I should replace the fuel door actuator in the trunk or is there a wiring problem at the door that I should try and replace?
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I spoke to service writers at two local dealers, and they said this had never come up yet for them, so they were not sure. The one actually asked if I pulled the release lever, then asked someone, who informed him there was no such lever on the Tiguan. Wow. So, he suggests I remove the paneling in the trunk area and assures me there is a release lever/cable/button there. Rest assured, I do not believe such a thing exists after pulling the panelling off and having a look. The second service fellow said mayyyyyybe there is an actuator cable in there somewhere, but I did not se such a thing and...the fuel door is NOT CABLE ACTUATED! SO, why would there be a cable?
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My lid is "stuck" open. It looks like it is missing a part. Looking for a pic of the latch assembly or diagram if they get a chance?
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So after pulling her apart again to clean up the bay, she finally decided she didnt want to start:
- Ignition works
- Cranks for days
- Fuses look good
I noticed my fuel prime doesn't go on when I open the door and the secondary water pump isnt on after I turn the key off. I have an inline fuel pump, so wouldnt that supply fuel if the in-tank one was dead?
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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This really ticked me off big time today, whatever I do the gas cap won't open when I tried to at the gas station. Before I noticed that I would have to try this a couple of times before it will open, but today, it just won't open at all.
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My ES350 trunk and fuel door will not open. The problem started out with me addressing the "Check SONAR" issue where all of my rear SONAR sensors weren't working. This issue with the SONAR working intermittently has been an issue now for about 8 months. Anyway so I had read somewhere to check under the front right passenger footwell and I did. With the car in ON mode (engine not running) I tried to disconnect each of the harnesses from the plugs one at a time so that I could isolate the harness that controlled the sonar.
Anyway I plugged everything back in and now the trunk won't release either from the Keyfob, or from the interior. The fuel door also won't release either and I've already tried the Valet button to no effect. I'm wondering if the computer that handles the trunk or whatnot got deactivated from the other computers and is no longer talking to it or something to that effect. I'm hoping I just blew a fuse but otherwise I just don't know how to proceed from here. It sucks this car has no way to open the trunk with a key, I think that was a huge oversight. I also cannot open the trunk by opening the pass through because the internal trunk release cable was broken by my dad several years ago and was never repaired.
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