Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Engine Warning Light Came On With A Misfire Whilst Doing 40 Mph
Jul 1, 2012
I have a 2002 Passat 2.0L petrol (130bhp AZM Engine), with single DIS Ignition coil pack. The engine warning light came on with a misfire whilst doing 40mph (no previous warning or indications of potential problems), which is present at all engine speeds. I had the code read, indicating a misfire on cylinder three. I have completed the following checks:
1) Cleared the codes and restarted engine.
2) Replaced the spark plugs with new ones.
3) Old spark plugs were in good condition with no oil, no deposits and the electrodes in good condition.
4) Checked HT lead condition and found no corrosion, a tight fitting cap and no damage to cable.
5) Earthed the HT lead and have strong spark when engine turns over.
6) Checked the injector electrical connections with a bulb tester and all is fine.
7) Removed the fuel rail and extracted cylinder 3 injector.
8) Performed a visual inspection of injector with all looking good and no blockages at the jets.
9) Tested the injector on the bench using a 12V battery to ensure it opens and closes correctly.
10) Replaced the injector in the rail and turned the engine over to check for blockages, with all injectors operating.
11) Swapped cylinder 3 and 4 injectors (misfire still on cylinder 3, no change)
12) Inspected fuel and air connections and ensured no leaks.
13) Checked the engine oil condition with no evidence of water contamination (head gasket).
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Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
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My 2000 B5 1.8t began getting the Low Oil Pressure warning light over the winter, and has gotten progressively worse. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I'm seeing about 20 psi on a cold engine at idle. If I rev to ~2500 the pressure DROPS to between 5 and 10 (and triggers the STOP! light).
I tried a bottle of autoRX, but probably too late- I could only run about 200 miles before the STOP! light wouldn't allow me to get out of the driveway.
What might cause the pressure to DROP as engine speed increases? a Clogged screen or worn pump possibly? It would be nice if it was something I could correct without pulling the engine (but I'm not expecting that).
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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My 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 is misfiring only when it rains out. I go to start the car and the car idles extremely rough and seems like it wants to die. I checked out the codes for the check engine light and I got misfire codes p0304 and p0300. Which is a general misfire detected, and misfire on cylinder 4. I noticed that when I misted the alternator during the day around 70 degrees with the car running the car would misfire and almost die out. I know you are not supposed to get the alternator wet, but keep in mind i did not soak it I misted water on it. I misted the coil pack and nothing happened. I replaced the spark plugs and wires a few days ago. But as soon as it rains my car does not idle right and the check engine light flashes.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I'll try to break this down as best I can. I went to my mechanic this am with a check engine light. My suspicion is 02 sensors. This was confirmed as a problem area, but separate they said I had a spuratic misfire in cylinder 4. With that info, i pulled the plug to inspect (I had just installed new ngks in it and they have 18,000K on em.
I put beldon wires on about 8k ago.) plug looked to be normal, but there was definitely a puddle of oil from the valve cover leaking. Oil went into the cylinder head but I didn't really think that was an issue. Nothing abnormal jumped out at me so I reinstalled plug and checked all wire connections at both ends and called it a day.
Then I drove it. Check engine light flashing. Major performance stutters, etc. I drove it for about 20 miles and hoped it was just the oil raising hell in there and it would burn off eventually. It hasn't gone away yet. Maybe coil pack. Can the single portions of that pack be replaced, all i see them sell is the full three as a unit.
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I just received a check engine light and the diagnostics from dealer were that a misfire was detected for cylinder 1 , 2 , 3 and 6 .
What needs to be changed? and mechanic said maybe the complete coil pack and wiring . Although, the code was reset and i haven't had the CEL come on prob in a week now , so i guess no other misfire has happened.
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Got the flashing check engine light and loss of power for few seconds and then the light stayed still, from time to time it blinks for few secs, usually when I push the gas pedal little bit more but it stays still, flashed only twice in 2 days for seconds. I connected computer (not VAG) and it says "Cylinder 4 misfire". I have app scheduled with my mechanic this Thursday, but still need to commute to work. Is it safe to drive?
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I have a 2002 Camry, 2.4 with 155k miles.
This morning I was going to work and was making a lane change and hit the accelerator quite aggressively. Suddenly my engine started to run really rough and shook the car and the check engine light started flashing.
I checked the engine code and its giving me a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire warning.
I have read that there can be various reasons but I figured since this problem is consistent its not a vacuum issue? Could it just be a bad plug? I don't have the tools to fix it, I am going to get them soon to pull the plugs and inspect then, and will replace them anyway since I don't think they have ever been replaced.
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The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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The 2001 Passat 1.8lT has an engine warning light on and feels like it is running on less than all four cylinders.( very rough idle) This is the first time we have seen this particular warning light and the manual suggests that it has a problem with the catalytic convertor.( 170K miles on the car) The car had no symptoms until the light came on today and the car was serviced last week. ( oil change and new tires) It seems that every time I take the car in for service something goes haywire shortly afterward.
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I bought my 2010 Prius IV Solar/Nav pkg in Febrary 2011. I've got just over 10k on the odometer. Aside from the persistent rattle/clatter/clank noise over bumps that these cars seem to be famous for, I've had no issues. That is, until last Thursday. The temps here in Indiana have dropped substantially so I was driving in town with the windows down, sunroof open. About two miles after leaving the office, I turned a corner and the car suddenly seemed like it went from running on 4cyl to running on 2 cyl. No warning lights came up on the dash, but the car was definitely shuddering/struggling to pick up speed, and was obviously running very rough. It felt worse when I was accelerating, but I think it may have even been doing it when I let off the accelerator.
This continued for approximately two or three blocks until I parked the car & powered down. After debating what to do (call a tow truck, confer with SafetyConnect, etc.) I decided to try & move the car again. Of course, it was as if nothing had happened. No warning lights were on & the car seemed to be performing normally. Since then, I've had no issues.
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Check engine light came on after a car wash yesterday. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the car and i recently had an oil change done. i use full synthetic oil too and always get it done on time. Is there a way for me to clear the engine light myself?
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2002 W8 Wagon Automatic with 55,000 miles. Second instance of Check Engine Light (MIL) in three months. Nothing wrong, supposedly. Dealer writeup says: "MIL checked and found sporadic codes in 46, 15 module, cleared codes and road tested, checked ok."
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I have a 2002 Passat. How to reset my check engine light. I need to get it inspected and it won't pass inspection until the check engine light is not on. Last year I took it to a mechanic who could find nothing wrong with it but reset my check engine light for me and it cost $250. Is this something I can do myself? I've had the car since it was new and the check engine light has gone on and off periodically for the past 10 years.
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