Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Driver Side Door Won't Lock Without Being Manually Locked?
Dec 16, 2008
For the past couple days my 02 passat drivers side door wont lock with out being manually locked, when my light are on and I get out of my car it does not chime and my lights wont come on when I open the door.
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I have a 2008 prius and I realized today that the driver side rear door will not lock. All the other doors lock except the rear driver side door. I tried locking it using the remote, but it didn't lock. I tried locking it with the lock button in the car by the driver which didn't work. When i try to push the lever by the door handle, it doesn't move.
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Locked my keys in my car. A locksmith came and instead of using the tool to unlock using the unlock button, he just pulled the regular lever inside with the tool to open the door while it was locked. Since then I cannot open the driver's side door from the inside. It will open, lock and unlock fine from the outside. It is unlocked when I attempt to open it from the inside. I pull the lever and nothing happens. I have to unroll the window and open the door using the outside handle or crawl over to exit from the passenger side door.
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I have a 2001 passat that i have had for about 2 months. recently, about 2 weeks ago, i started having problems with the remote unlock feature. it will unlock the driver side door fine, but when i press the unlock button twice, the driver side lock makes a noise but the other three doors remain locked. when i press the unlock toggle on the driver side controls with the window controls, all the doors unlock fine. i have two remotes, one is pretty new and i just got it programmed (within a month) and neither one will unlock all the doors.all the other functions of the remote work fine.
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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On occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
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I've had my 2013 for about 1.5 years and I've had the cold lock issue repeatedly as I'm sure anyone in a cold climate has had (once where every single door was frozen and I couldn't even use the damn thing until it got warmer). Now the drivers door won't lock. It shuts and the latch engages, but it won't lock. The alarm enables when I click to lock (not really, but the led flashes red), but you can just pull open the drivers door. The alarm doesn't sound. It's been above freezing for at least the last week here...
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I have a similar door rattle near the door lock area on the driver's side. It sounds like metal touching metal. I took the door panel off and found nothing loose or unusual. The rattle is driving me crazy.
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Its an electrical issue.
I have a couple issues that have been bothering me lately. The drivers door lock is intermittent to lock when trying to lock it with the remote or the auto locking when going a certain speed. To get it to lock, I either have to unlock the entire car with the door switch then it will lock with the switch, or unlocking the car with the remote before hitting the lock button. It will also relock itself even if I opened the door and is sitting in the seat, just like if you unlock it and don't open the door it relocks.
My car alarm horn is not working, either with the alarm going off, in panic mode, or when hitting the lock button twice.
I also am having issues with the drivers side window, the only way it goes down is if you press the button all the way down to automatically go all the way down. If I try to go down without going all the way, when I press the button it goes up.
And last but not least, after replacing a wheel bearing last night when I got home, the interior light wouldn't work with the door until I locked it and unlocked it with the key but afterwards it worked again
The car is a 2000 1.8t with 221,000 miles auto no modifications except euroswitch.
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So last night I tried to lock my car door i put the key in and tried to turn it to lock it and it wouldn't move as if it were stuck or something so i had to lock it from the passenger side and this morning i went to go check it out and sprayed a little bit of WD-40 on the key and inside the part the key goes in since it wouldn't move and was stuck i thought that might have worked but instead all it did was make it worse now it just spins in circles freely without locking or unlocking my doors i have to do it from the passenger side ...
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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I came out to get into my car today and pressed the keyfob to unlock and nothing. Went inside, same deal with my backup and valet key. I tried to scan with vag com with the alarm going off and I could link up, but not to the immobilizer or lock system. I did get both key 1 and key 2 adaptation surpassed codes. Even when I manually unlock the drivers door the alarm does not go off and I cannot roll up my windows with the key or unlock any other doors with the key. Things have been strange lately too, every time I lock the car and set the alarm the doors themselves locks don't sink down but the alarm is activated allowing anyone to get into the car but alarm goes off.
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I'm at a complete loss, My drivers side back door has stopped working, Alarm, window and lock, I've checked my fuses, and it seems i only have 3 doors in the fuse box, what are the numbers to the door fuses in the box.
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I have a 2002 VW Passat. This weekend the keyless entry was working fine. Then on Monday, I go to unlock the doors, and the key less entry will only unlock the Driver's door. It will not unlock any of the other doors. I've tried searching but couldn't find any previous posts about this. What could be causing the problem?
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So I've noticed a problem. When I go to lock my doors with the keyfob my drivers side door doesn't lock. Manually I can turn the key and lock it. Now what's weird is my drivers door will lock when I press the lock button on the inside of the door(the button on the handle). So I'm pretty sure the actuator isn't bad since the door will lock via the inside button, maybe I'm wrong though? Not really a super bad problem but annoying nonetheless.
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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My fab works just fine (to unlock the doors) and I can lock the doors with the key. My problem is that for about 1 month, when I hit the lock button on the fab, all the doors lock but then the driver's door immediately unlocks. You can hear the doors lock, but then you hear the driver's door lock unlocking. I have to manually push the lock button switch (on the driver's inside door) to lock all the doors (and then the driver's lock unlocks, once again)... and then i manually push the lock on the driver's door. This is driving me CRAZY because basically I cannot lock the drivers door without going through this step. I have had the car for years and have never had a problem.
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I am having issues with the door lock module.
I cannot open it with the remote or manually with the key. So i took the whole door apart and took out the actuator module thing and pulled it apart and checked all switches and solder joints and fixed them all and put back together to test and it still doesn't work. It doesn't seem like there is any power going to the module. I just plugged in the connector into the module and tried to test it and nothing.
I activate the micro switch for the door and the interior lights don't go on or off. They are off. Also when i put the key in ignition there is no noise and turning headlights on there is no noise. The last time i was working on the car was when everything was working and that was last Saturday. I opened the hood and shut the door and it locked itself but when i shut the hood the alarm went off and was a solid noise not a chirp or pulsation alarm noise. So i hit the unlock button on my remote and that fixed it.
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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