Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Clicking / Knocking Noise When Make Turns
Apr 27, 2008
I've been hearing a clicking/knocking noise when i make turns recently and was wondering if it could just be hums in need of replacement... I have a 2002 Passat, so I think its a bit early for it to go but ya never know. If they are the hubs, what causes them to wear out so quick and around how much they'd be to replace (in parts...labor varies). The noise is only when I turn, no noise at all when driving straight.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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Well my girls car is acting up again. when you make left turns, you can hear this real loud popping, almost cracking noise coming from the passenger side front tire. its a 06 passat with 88k miles on it. What is wrong with it??
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The other day i noticed that when i make a sharp turn left or right i hear a clicking noise. If the clutch is engaged it clicks and if its not then it does not click. It is also louder when i turn right... I am thinking CV axle!
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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The car is a 2.8L w/ a manual tranny. The car was making a rhythmic clunking and clicking noise around right hand turns on the left wheel. So when the weight of the vehicle is applied to the left, that's when the noise occurs. The car has been in the shop for 6 days and the technicians have replaced both axle shafts (it was time to do so anyway) but the noise is still there!!! What could possibly be making that noise other than bad CV's? The rhythm of the noise coincides with the rotation of the wheel/shaft which is where they have focused. Could it possibly be bad strut mounts? This is driving me crazy!!! They tell me its perfectly safe to drive (how do they know this when thy don't know whats wrong?) but I can't imagine this can carry on much longer without something breaking.
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It has been raining, finally, in bay area, thats the good part. The scary part is that, today I was driving normal close to 15mph and took a left turn at a traffic light and the car spun out. This was the second time in couple of months. Both times it had rained for long periods, road was not water logged.
First time had spun out of control on right turn and second time on left turn. Tires are close to 30K old. Wheels aligned 6k back, rotated 1k back. And passenger side CV makes clicking noise occasionally. Do not remember, the CV making the noise around the time of spin out on both occasions.
2000 Passat 64Kmiles.....
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. There is a slight rubbing noise when I make wide turns and I suspect it is the wheel bearings. How much should it cost to replace these, and how thin is the ice I am skating on if I put it off?
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
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Just got back from the supermarket. Unloaded groceries and my Passat wouldn't start when I went to park it. Turned the key and it just makes a clicking noise - clock and trip odometer reset themselves also. If I turn the key the car just makes a clicking noise and the lights on the dash all flash on and off.
I am going to see if it starts after being jumped in a few minutes.
Other potentially useful info - I was testing a radar detector for work the other day and it has a battery voltage meter. It was reading in the 11.0 - 11.6 volt range. Is this too low - just wondering if the alternator was not supplying a sufficient charge. Not sure how accurate these are. The battery was changed around a year ago so I'm sure it's not the battery. I am assuming starter or alternator.
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I first thought it was just a cold thing, but now it's not starting at all in a warmed garaged. The electrical system seems to go in and out, makes this crazy clicking kind of noise, and eventually will make the dashboard lights go entirely, the message system saying then the breaks have failed, pull over, etc., On a cold morning it won't crank, and when it finally does it will immediately shut off. Once I finally overcome it, the electrical system clicks and clicks, and eventually will lose dashboard lights and functions... no turn signal, nothing.
If I can get driving for 15 minutes or so without the electrical interference happening, it will run fine like normal and I can restart the car fine the rest of the day... but the next morning (especially if cold) I go through the process again.
Now it's just not cranking at all...it's clicking, but it sounds like a louder clicking than a dead battery... it's like the electrical system is overriding it entirely and won't let me get the car started at all.
Other symptoms: when I get the key near the ignition (not putting it in) the clicking of the electric system starts. Interior lights flicker, etc. Today it won't start.
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Just want to share a problem I recently noticed on my Tiguan. Its a 2010 4motion I bought March last year and currently has 19000km.
Lately I noticed it makes a clanking sound in the front area as I accelerate off a right turn. It always does it on right turns and on rare occasions on left turns as well.
It doesn't do it if I turn right coming from a complete stop and happens only when I slow down coming up to a right turn and it makes the sound as I accelerate.
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I went to clean my wife's throttle body out with brake cleaner and I think I sprayed too much into the throttle body now the car won't start. It makes a small clicking/grinding noise when I try to start it. What have I done?
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So the Jetta developed a new noise lately that sounds just like what can be head on this video.
The spring-clicking kinda noise only happens when i make a sharp right turn at low speed and seems to be coming from the driver's side. So i though bad outer cv joint.
Well, I put on a brand new OEM unit last night and noise is still there.
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Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
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My boyfriend has 95 subaru legacy L 2.2 that has issues. NEW: coil pack, fuel pump, spark plugs n wires, battery. (I forget the rest)
Background: While running the car almost out of gas (as usual) it starts to run rough, just thinking it was the gas, he gets gas and heads home but it does not fix the roughness. It stalls in driveway (lucky). A friend brings over obd scanner. Reads codes for cylinder 1&4 misfire. It starts and runs but sounds like crap. I tested the coil pack and the reading was bad, so got that and sparks n wires. Cleaned a bunch of fuel related parts (its been a while) and took out injector but apparently it was not back in all the way because fuel came spray/flooding out while another friend had a sparkplug out and was testing it for spark!! (luckily he was not harmed).
After this it has not started. We did get the injector back in all the way, and waited to work on it figuring it was flooded and that time would work. Next was the fuel pump, yay i can hear it now, boo still didn't work. Now car clicks. Ok, starter out, tested THREE times at advance auto, and once at napa. They both say it is good. (I have my doubts though, it sounded slow to start up to me). Battery is also tested, bad cell. Checked flywheel, Put starter back in and new battery with 625 cold cranking amps. Car cranks now, but no start. Clicking noise when crankshaft turns.
Q: Do the engine is still flooded?
Q: Did the flooding foul the new spark plugs?
Q: WHY is the crankshaft clicking?
Q: WHERE is the nearest cliff?
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I recently replaced my driver side axle due to the inner CV joint boot being ripped. Its a 2001 Jetta VR6 with 173,000 miles on it and I have been driving it with a ripped boot for about a year and finally decided to replace the whole axle last night. I replaced it with an aftermarket axle (was on a budget) and the job was fairly easy. Since I did it late at night I was too tired to take it for a test drive so I waited until today. When I was driving it all was well until I took a right turn and I could hear a very distinct clicking sound coming from the driver side wheel well, it is constant throughout the turn.
The noise is only present when taking turns above 20mph and it sometimes even occurs when driving in a straight line. Take note that I have not had an alignment done yet since I had replaced the axle. The car is lowered about 2 inches on Raceland coil-overs that are pretty old and I think they are shot. But like I said the car has NEVER made this sound until I just recently replaced the axle. I am at a loss of what it could be and I am trying to sell the car currently so I would like to get this problem sorted out as soon as possible!
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Looking for pictorial descriptions / videos on how to replace the CV axles on 2011-14 Sonata 2.4? Mine starts developing clicking noise under tight turns about 10k miles ago but the boots are absolutely fine. I just hope to buy some time on it before I can confidently replace those axles myself as I only have limited cash.
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