Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Car Shakes And Engine Light Blinks At Startup
Nov 4, 2009
when i turn on my car it shakes and engine light blinks it happen this morning when i start my car.
View 1 Replieswhen i turn on my car it shakes and engine light blinks it happen this morning when i start my car.
View 1 RepliesSo I've had ongoing issues with this car that no mechanic seems to be able to diagnose. It jerks when I accelerate and decelerate pretty badly. It sometimes lets out a big cloud of smoke right when I start it. Now, it has developed some pretty violent shaking when I first start it up. It will only do this if the engine is completely cold and car has been sitting overnight. I feel like all these symptoms are related somehow. I have changed all the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. I've also had all the motor mounts replaced. I really wish the engine light would come on but it will not and never has.
It's really annoying that it only happens on startup so when I take it to the mechanic, well, they can't replicate it. What to try?
2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 136k miles Automatic
So I have 69,500 miles on my car. I leave it parked on a small hill for 3 days and when I turn it on after 3 days of sitting it sounds like it is going to stall and the check engine light blinks. I roll it to the bottom of the hill and turn it on and the light doesn't blink but just stays on. On top of this, randomly but always after stopping when driving i smell a really strong burning oil smell. The smell is so bad i have to open the windows.
I don't think it has anything to do with the CEL but it has been happening for some time. It only smells after you have been driving (mostly Highway) and then stop. It wont happened if your in traffic or driving around town, you have to be on the highway then get off and stop and you smell it. It can happen once a month or twice a week, it is completely random.
I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
View 3 RepliesThe 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
My 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
I've got a 2002 f250 7.3L 4x4 auto trans and I've done quite a bit of searching and cant seem to find any definite answer. I drove 40 miles today no problem. pulled into a stall at sonic and when I went to leave no reverse. I was even on a downhill slope, but it wouldn't budge. I got a friend to come up there and we tried to pull it, wouldn't budge.... I disconnected the driveshaft and it rolled downhill without us even having to hook onto it again. Once it was out I hopped in and put it in drive and it took right off.
It did feel like maybe I had to give it a little extra gas to get it moving but maybe I'm just paranoid. I know once I got on the road it was cruising 65 no problem in drive. I got it to my job and noticed that when I put it in reverse the OD off light flashes and if I mash the gas with it in reverse it actually acts like its trying to push it forwards. I did jack the rear end up and put it in reverse and the tires make a half rotation but in the wrong direction then come to a dead stop.... with the tires jacked up off the ground Drive would spin them, 2 would spin them, but 1 would stop them like somebody locked up the brakes.
My 2002 explorer, 4.0l engine. My 4x4 light on the dash blinks 10 times and I've found that sometimes the 4 wheel drive locks in. When i pull into a parking space on dry road I can feel the front of the truck Jerking when trying to park. I hit the 4x4 auto button on the dash a couple of times and the 4 x 4 will disengage. While driving on dry road yesterday the 4x4 light started blinking and I felt the 4x4 slam in. The 4x4 light still blinks and I can't disengage the 4 x 4 this time. The truck has 140,000 miles on it. I'm thinking its the 4x4 control module but I'm not sure.
View 1 Repliesput some 18' rims on my car, and im getting the tire pressure low light, is that normal?
View 4 Replies08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
Recently, my check engine light blinks when I start my car. Once I put the car in drive or reverse, it turns off. The light does not come on when I put the car back in park. What this means?
View 1 RepliesIt's causing the 'engine preheating' light to constantly blink. Very annoying.
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 070 906 016 B HW: 028 101 073 7
Component and/or Version: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGM5726
Software Coding: 0000175
Work Shop Code: WSC 43095 134 00985 VCID: 0F26408D67DB
1 Fault Found:
18048 - Internal Control Module: EEPROM Error
[Code] ....
I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T and have had a check engine light for the past month or so. I was finally able to get it to one of my local mechanics who specializes in german made cars. He showed me where one of my vacuum lines had split open, then proceeded to splice the line with a t-fitting and a new length of hose and then reset the check engine light.
Well, the engine light has stayed off, but now when I start the car, it almost stalls out right after startup, then proceeds to idle and run fine. The mechanic thinks that since the car was running for so long with that vacuum leak that the ECU needs to to "reset" itself to the different pressure.
Today my Passat B5.5 V6 was parked in the driveway and it was kind of hot outside. When I went to start it up it sputtered a little while before it eventually felt secure or stable. I also noticed the computer light ( with the gas miles left info) was slightly dimmer....which lasted until I did a restart. After that one time it didnt happen again the entire day.
View 4 RepliesMy wife has 2012 Camry with 23K.
Right now the service engine soon light blinks as the car starts up. Is it a matter of dealer plugging something into clear code? What will the dealer want to service?
I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 which has 126k miles on it. Overall the car runs well without any trouble. Recently I am noticing that if I suddenly slow down (like taking an exit from interstate or sudden traffic so that speed reduces to 30 mph from 60 mph or so), the front of the car starts shaking. On a very few occasion I have noticed that the check engine light comes up for a few seconds and disappears. At the same time car looses it's acceleration power. However, as soon as I slow down further (close to stop) everything starts working fine without any issue. What could be going wrong? The car is due for a timing belt replacement around 130k miles .
View 3 RepliesShakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
View 5 RepliesI own a 2012 Toyota Corolla S w/ 8700 miles on it I am the first owner. Check engine light blinks on and off 8 times. I cleaned the gas cap threads and neck, then I reset the computer by removing the positive terminal for 1 minute. I also checked the oil it's fine. Light still blinks? I have many years of mechanical back ground, without running codes I don't know this one
View 4 RepliesI own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.