Passat (B5) :: 2002 - A/C Is On But No Cool Air?
Jul 12, 2007
We have a 2002 Passat and I just noticed over the last few days that when the AC is on, the air is definitely not cooling. There is nothing visibly wrong in terms of leaks or anything and it used to work incredibly well, but now it feels just like having the vent open.
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I have an '02 Durango, and the AC only blows cool air when going down the road at 25+ mph. I thought I'd try putting some refrigerant in, but when I hooked up the gauge on the can it buried the needle, so it's over 100 psi on the low side, and the pressure was high enough that no refrigerant would flow in. Up where the lines attach to the expansion valve, when idling the in line is HOT - like too hot to keep your hand on and the out line is about air temp. The guy at the parts store thought the expansion valve was bad. As stated, AC works okay (but not excellently) while going down the road.
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Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
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Worked fine yesterday, today no dice. I was hoping it might be a fuse or something cheap and easy as opposed to a compressor or sensor failure (55k miles, so out of warranty). VW, of course, stopped including fuse box diagrams, but I found a couple on this site and in other places, and no joy after checking relevant fuses and pushing on the rest to be sure they're firmly seated ..
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All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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My A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
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1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
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I have a 13 elantra gt with 4k miles and I absolutely love it. The only problem I have with it is that the a/c just doesn't seem to keep the car cool enough. I have to keep it on max ac full blast "witch is incredibly loud by the way" just to keep rear passengers comfortable on the highway. I used a temperature probe and got 47 degrees f in the duct. Is that normal? It seems high to me...
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I've got the single zone a/c system -- On a hot day (here in VA a hot day is greater than 90 with high humitity), after the T has sat in the sun all day, it takes 10 or so minutes for the cabin to reach a comfortable temp, 69-70. By the way, I have the midnight blue with tan interior -- This could be a factor, you know, the dark car holds more heat scenerio.
I took it in last summer to ensure that the system was charged and operating at a normal level and I was told it was. A recent passenger questioned me as to why it took so long to cool off (and of course she mentioned that her 4runner cooled off way faster), I had no answer besides telling them to just be cool and the T will eventually will too.
I should have set a poll up, oh well, general comments are just as good. Side note -- Posting pictures, you do this through iServer? Or is the Insert Image icon just broken today?
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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The A/C is not working in my 2002 S-10. Currently the compressor runs, but the air is not getting cool. I tried adding freon, but it has not worked. The low side pressure is about 50 psi, and would drop a few pounds when the compressor is started, but it drops no further. I have not noticed the compressor cycling while it is on. The can of refrigerant is not empty, but the system does not seem to be taking any more from that can.
Do I just need to add some more coolant from a fresh can, or is something else at work here. Also, probably unrelated, when down shifting it is fairly common for the air to switch from blowing up front to blowing on the defrost.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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I'm trying to bring fresh air at ambient temperature into the cab, but even on Econ and Lo, incoming air is a good 20 degrees F warmer than outside, even after 20 minutes or so giving the system time to cool off. The dealer says this is normal. Is there no way to get cool outside air in through the ventilation system without turning on the compressor?
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2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
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When I get up in the mornings and make my 10 mile commute to work my AC is icebox cold, I could hang meat in there. But after a long long day (about 9 - 10 hours) when I get back in my 96 Explorer to head out -- driving about 30 miles -- the AC never gets cool. It feels like it's just a vent siphoning in the hot air from the outside. This has been going on for about the past week. What could be causing this issue?
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When moving, I receive mildly cool air, when sitting still (traffic or lights) the A/C becomes warm. The air doesn't change outlets, velocity is the same. Other than checking pressure, what other possibilities... I am going to have it serviced.
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I have a 1993 Ford F-250 super cab w/ 7.5 ltr engine 2wd. On a downhill at freeway speeds, foot off the gas, the A/C cuts out. When I step on the gas pedal again the cool air returns. The EEC IV has an output on pin 10 that can shut off the clutch, but I don't know what inputs it uses to make that decision. I know about the WOT condition, but this is the opposite of wide open throttle.
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