Passat (B5) :: 2002 1.8t Sedan - HIDs Blowing Low Beam Fuses
Jan 23, 2013
Car is a 2002 b5.5 1.8t sedan.
Bought the DDM Tuning HIDs, 3500k 35w for the fogs, installed with no problems. Also ordered the 5000k 35w for the low beams. Installed them, they flickered on for a second, then nothing. Let the ballasts charge for a while but still nothing. Called DDM, they said my car needs a error code eliminator kit thing later they were at my doorstep. Plugged one side in, flicked on then nothing. Thought both sides might need the code eliminators plugged in...wrong. both flickered on, and then nothing. Tried again, no flicker, both low beam fuses burned. Plugged the regular bulbs in, changed the fuses, lights working again.
I don't know much about electrical, but DDM said i def don't need a relay kit. Do I need a relay kit? Or would putting higher amperage fuses in the place of the original ones work? if so what amperage?
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I installed an aftermarket HID's on my 06 B6 2.0T, used VAG-COM to disabled DRL's. They work great no issue, expect when I use my high beam.....both HID's go out and I get warning light/message on the dash. I can get them to come back on by turning the lights off and back on.
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My high beam doesnt work. I have a Euro Passat with H7. I bought new H7 yesterday but still no luck.
I have switched fuses to new ones.
Is there anything else I can check?
Is there relays on this model for the high beams?
Low beams works fine and everything else in lights.
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I've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
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I have just bought the Passat 2002 TDI AVF engine. When I open the fuse box cover and look at the scheme, I can conclude that some fuses are missing. Probably I don't understand the symbols' meanings. For example the fuse 41 is missing, but my ABS works. But I have the ESP so though that is the same device probably the fuse 42 is for ABS too. Then, the fuse 9 is missing, and my car has the mirror heat function. How can I test do they work? Does the little symbol on the heat switch become yellow when they work? Fuse 10 is missing if I understood the symbol was for CD. My car has Charger in the back and it works.
The last thing is fuse 1. What is this fuse for? Is it for headlight washer, and if is, what is the fuse 3 for? I disregarded the possibility that some cars may have the washing water heater and it is may be for that. My car doesn't have either headlights washer or water heater. The fuse 18 is for long beam and signal lamp, it is obvious.
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i just recently put in 35W 8000K hi/lo HID's in my GLI the problem is for some reason on my instrument cluster it says my hi beams are one which they are not and it is only lightly illuminated. if u turn on the hi beams the hi beam switch on the cluster turns on and gets brighter so is their any way i could have the switch completely turned off like it was with stock bulbs?
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Been about 3 months now trying to figure out my issue in my 2006 passat 2.0t the front passenger low beam bulb keeps going out no matter what kind of bulb I use. They last for a week or two then burn out .When the do burn out they actually blow into pieces the only thing left are the wires in the bulb checked into everything I could think of looked at the plug of where the bulb plugs in checked the wires that connect to it ran as far as I could follow in the engine compartment all the wires seemed fine. And there's no moisture getting into the headlamp assembly.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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Noticed drivers low beam didn't work. I had spare D2S bulbs, so I got the pain in the ass thing out and changed bulb, and still nothing. Tried the other spare, still nothing. I had a set of brand new ballasts ( from a DDM Tuning kit I never installed in another car) and still nothing. Out comes the volt meter! No power (like 0.23v) to drivers side ballast brown/yellow wires. Pass side reads ~12v. I tried the main headlight harness, and one of the larger pins (one of the middle 4) that has power on pass side, only has that 0.23v on drivers side.... So its not bulb/ballast. What is it? Is there a relay for each side? Fuse? Anything I should look at?
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I have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
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2002 Passat W8. I need to replace the Right low beam xenon bulb. Looking for some pics on how to replace this! Or write a detailed description step by step on how to get this sucker changed out.
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I am having an issue with the passenger side low beam headlight on a stock 02 Passat. Bulb is fine but after testing confirmed no juice to that side. Drivers side works fine as do the running lights on both sides. Fuse is fine and after an afternoon of looking at it I am about ready to beat my head up against the wall. Only other clue is the cig lighter went out about (not sure if the exact) same time.
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So, last night I go to turn on the high beams on my 2002 Passat (pushing the bar on the left of the steering column forward) ... and nothing happens. The bar clicks into place as it should, but no high beams. The little indicator light on the dashboard does not come on, either.
I try to flash my high beams, and that DOES work. The brights come on, and the little indicator lights up when the beams engage.
So ... I know it's not a fuse, since the lights are actually functioning. What part/switch/relay/whatever needs to be replaced to get this fixed? I feel like this would involve me needing to pull apart the mechanism in the steering column, but I hope not ...
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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So I just got a new Passport Radar for the car and noticed that im getting no power...Checked the fuse box and and fuse was blown...replace it and the fuse blows automatically.
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So I installed my XS HID low beams and fogs a couple of weeks ago, and everything was working fantastic. However, when I installed my LED turns and load resistors, whenever I turn on the low beams, the inline 30A fuse pops. The HID fogs continue to work. The switchback turns work great, and I have never got any hyperflashing.
I have checked all the connections, and they all seem strong. I have used the diagram I found on here from exLEDshop outlining all the connections on the pin array for the headlight harness. I am tapped into the blue wire on the driver's side for + turn and the black for -, and the black w/orange stripe on the passenger side for + turn, and the black for -. If I accidentally have the load resistors connected to the wrong wire, would the turns hyperflash?
I know that it would be better if I used grounding points on the chassis for the load resistors, but could this be causing the short? Or could bad ballasts that are the culprit? The only reason I'm leaning away from it being the ballasts is because they worked fine until I put the load resistors in.
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I just got my led switch back lights in for my 08 camry. But I have run into a problem I have installed all four led signal lights (switch backs in the front and led ambers in the back) and the led flash relay for my car. What is happening is that the led will turn on for a couple of seconds and then the fuse for the signal lights burns out both the one under the dash and the one under the hood.
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Several weeks ago, my wife drove our Outback for 10 minutes, turned the car off, then turned it back on after 10 minutes. After 15 minutes of its being on the second time and the car being in a car line, the red temperature indicator blinked, then went solid. She pulled over to let it cool, then put coolant in the overflow reservoir when she got home. The reservoir was nearly empty. The very next day, the exact same thing happened, in the exact same sequence - 10 minutes on, 10 off, 15 minutes on in a car line, then indicator came on again.
I took it to a mechanic who could not reproduce the issue after letting it run for four hours. He replaced the fuses and told us to bring him the car when the problem recurred. Reservoir tank is full, no blockage in line from radiator to overflow tank.
The next day, for a third time, the car overheated in the pickup line. We brought it in the following day. The mechanic finally was able to reproduce the issue. He said that both fans (a subi outback has two) needed to be replaced, as they were drawing a tremendous amount. He advised that I take it to subaru to find out if there was anything they could do re: warranty.
I took it to subaru, who said that the fans are not now under warranty (we have 65k on the car). I decided to have them replace the fans anyway, so I asked them for a diagnosis. However, after two days in the shop, they were unable to reproduce the problem. They ran the car in idle, they tried to recreate the stop-and-go/standstill environment of a carline, but no luck. They said that the fans were drawing the expected amount and that they would need recreate in order to diagnose.
I have two questions:
1) Should I replace the fans myself? I can either take the car back to the first mechanic and have him replace the fans or I can do it myself. I can do basic jobs like oil changes, replacing serpentine belts, but I'm not sure what nuances are involved with replacing anything electrical.
2) Most importantly: What would cause both fans in a relatively young subi to spike their amperage draw intermittently? I guess it's possible that i just got two bad fans, but that doesn't seem to be a common problem with this model. So, I want to make sure that this issue is not indicative of some other underlying problem.
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Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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About 11pm 2 nights ago on our way to Florida, hit a nasty bump on I-95 in SC and there went the fuse to the tail lights and dash lights (#17 I believe). Obviously something shook loose from the jarring of that bump and blew the fuse. I've blown this fuse before, but I thought it was due to a cracked LR tail light assembly holding water, which was replaced last weekend.
Now I replace the fuse, and as soon as I hit the headlight switch...it blows again. Holding my breath running around FL at night until the man pulls me over for no tail lights. So far, here's what work has been done:
- Replaced entire LR tail light assembly with new one, new bulbs, new bulb plugs - Sprayed electrical cleaner all over harness plugs, and used electrical grease to hook it back up
- Sprayed electrical cleaner into both trailer plugs
- Did replace both batteries last weekend - noticed on the drivers side battery appears to be some relays next to the battery on the fenders - one appeared to be beat up probably due to prior battery replacements - no clue what they do
I am at a total loss. Worse fear is I can't figure this out and I have to turn it over to the dealership
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Why the rear Auxiliary A/C blower on a 2004 Sport Trac keeps blowing fuses and how to fix it?
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