Passat (B5) :: 2002 1.8T - Ticking Noise After Replacing Timing Belt
Oct 16, 2011
I had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
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I replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
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I have just bought a 2000 passat 1.8t. The car had broken timing belt so i was just planning to replace the timing belt but there is another issue. When i was disassembling the radiator support I took off the intercooler but there was a lot of motor oil so I am not quite sure what is the problem. And do have to rebuild the engine or replace the cylinder head because of the broken timing timing belt. The belt was actually not broken only belt teeth are gone so I think that piston and valves might crashed.
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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I bought a 02 accent base model hb 5 speed 109k miles for a winter car (have a mustang in garage.) It ran good until tonight when the timing belt snapped. I know this because while driving it made some ticking noises and then shut off and when you try to start it the noise that comes indicates no compression so the belt must've snapped and bent the valves.
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My car recently had its timing belt changed, it's got about 83k miles. up until then there had been some oil loss, but there was some leaking found around the valve covers so the gaskets were done. my mechanic did a full tb change, including the water pump. he said that the coolant was pretty cloudy when he changed it too.
When I got the car back, the coolant filled the tank to about half. it was running and warmed up (had just been driven about an hour) at the time. this was a couple weeks ago. i haven't driven the car since then as its my wife's ride. today, after i got to work (hour on the highway) and turned the car off, i checked the coolant level. it was at the min line.
Now of course, my first thought is "oh crap, am i really gonna have to do a head gasket now?" But I'm wondering what else might be going on, particularly after a TB change. Also, the car has been running kind of like crap as of late. I changed out the spark plugs, which were clearly OEM, and that worked immensely, but after a ride on the highway for an hour it's a bit rough getting off the highway. Dunno if it's related - my mechanic also thinks i need to replace my wires too, so perhaps it's just that.
So far it doesn't look like my oil is being consumed, though i need to pay more careful attention to that as the days go on. i do get a burning coolant (i think. could be oil, but I'm pretty sure it's coolant) smell from the vents when i warm start the car and turn on the heat. it goes away in about a minute or so. when i first got the car back, my mechanic said it was due to the coolant he spilled all over the engine, but after two weeks i wonder if it isn't something else. i suppose it could be, but the car's been driven about 400 miles since and i would think it would be gone by now. maybe i need to clean the engine to be sure? So, questions:
1) Is it possible that there was some air in the system, and that the air worked its way out, causing the overall level to go down?
2) Are there any likely areas of the TB job that could cause this? i don't recall it ever consuming coolant before, and at this rate, i certainly would have, i should think - we had the car for a year before this.
3) The car had a bit of sludging in it - guess is that it never had anything but dino oil before. So I changed it out with some 502 rated oil and my mechanic advised me to drive it hard every so often and then change it out before my normal interval. today i put it into manual mode and got my rpms up around 6000. could the high rpms have led to consumption in some way?
At this point i'd like to collect as much info as i can about this before making any decisions about how to proceed.
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I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
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My 1990 Acura Integra is on her 4th timing belt...still going strong after 25 years! Long ago, I was told by the people who worked on my car that it was best to replace the Timing Belt every 60K. My Manual says inspect at 60K but replace at 90K.I typically have changed it at around 65K....and now it is a bit beyond the 65K mark for this timing belt ( also do the water pump, etc) as the car is now at 262,327 miles.I am tempted to wait a bit longer, as it is not even close to the 90K mark.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
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I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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I have a GX470 and just had the timing belt replaced. Now my "airbag light" stays on all the time.
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I replace my timing belt and water pump and my engine is now over heating. I notice it's only over heats when the ac is running and the engine is idling. When I start to drive the engine temp goes down.
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I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
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I bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
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Car lost power and has a winding noise when trying to start.It does make any weird YOUR MOTOR IS SCREWED noises or losing any fluids and everything power wise works as it should.I thought the starter went bad,with the winding noise,but doesn't explaining the car just shutting off while driving.
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
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2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
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Is there a "how to" on adjusting the tension of the timing belt in a 2002 accent 1.5L ....
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