Passat (B5) :: 2002 / 1.8T - Small Leak In Transmission Cooler Line At Radiator Connection
Oct 12, 2011
Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carol, 110K miles, 3.4L. How to remove the transmission cooler line that connects to the radiator. Can't seem to break the bolt loose that screws into the radiator. Not sure whether this is a quick connect fitting or not! it definitely doesn't seems like it. Also having problems removing the fan shroud. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Should this be remove prior to removing the cooler line?
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I've just (a couple of weeks ago) purchased an 03 Santa Fe. I noticed some trans fluid on my driveway a week later, and not a small amount. I took the lower cover off of the engine, and the leak is coming from the transmission oil cooler area. I had hopes that it would be something fairly straightforward to repair, so I got a replacement oil cooler and some spare hose, just in case it was just a hose. After getting the front bumper off, I found that the bottom of the oil cooler is clean and dry-- not the issue. It looks as though the leak is coming from what they're calling the Trans oil cooler "tube assembly", as illustrated on the Hyundai Parts Department trans cooler page as item number 5, part number 2547126011. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the entire radiator to get to this thing to replace it? It appears to be fixed in place, but I can't see any hardware to remove it.
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The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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The transmission line running under the radiator has started to leak. I took a piece of rubber trans. hose and buy passed the cooler. How much does the cooler support the trans. temperature. I don't tow with the truck. And for the most part drive it around 14 to 20 miles one way to work. Is this something I need to replace now or after the temperature hits the 80s.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
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What is the location of the Transmission Cooler Line? Is it by the radiator?
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I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6. This truck has been the bane of my existence since I bought it back in September, but I finally fixed all of the issues I was having and it's been great. But, today I discovered that during the most recent work, the transmission cooler line ( Ford part # 7L2Z7890A) was left unsecured against the tensioner pulley. Needless to say, today a hole appeared that gushed tranny fluid everywhere.
I have two questions please- First, need to find the hose diameter so I can do a quick fix insert long enough to drive 1 hr. home? Second, I read online that there is a fluid fill point on the passenger side of the transmission case, is this correct and do I need to be aware of anything else to add enough fluid to safely drive the 80 miles home?
I haven't lost enough fluid that my driving is becoming sluggish and hesitant, but I can tell it is very low.
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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We suspect that we do indeed have a small leak in the radiator. If we keep the fluid to the full mark, can we drive it without concern. We do realize that is will have to be replace but we are hoping to drive it for a while longer.
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Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
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Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
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As explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
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I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 177K. I'm planning on getting a new car in a few months. The radiator has a small leak at the top. Is a product such as Barr's stop leak a viable solution to get me through a few months or will it cause problems?
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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After 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
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