Passat (B5) :: 2002 1.8T - Idle Will Drop And The Car Will Stall Out When Driving
Mar 10, 2013
I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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When I drive the idle surges up and down and stalls when i slow down.
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I have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
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I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
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My wife has a 02 Solara V6. It has been a cold spring and now it has warmed up and in the 80's and a problem has reared its head. Engine runs fine, will warm up normally and while driving will stay at a normal halfway temp.
Problem is it will heat up at idle, say at a light. The fans run, but half assed. They'll kick in with the AC on and the temps will drop, but then they switch off to half assed speed again. I will probably take a multimeter and measure the voltage at each fan plug when they are running slow.
The weird part is both fans go full bore when the AC is on and then slow after about 4-5 mins.
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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I have a 1990 Alfa spider. It has a blip at idle. Originally it was much worse. Idle would drop to 500 then pop up to 1200 the back down, back up etc. Engine would sometimes stall while driving. This happened as I would take my foot off the gas coming to a stop. I replaced the first large air duct between the mass air flow gauge and the air intake chamber(cracked on underside). Worked but still had blip which was then unpredictable. I cleaned the air flow gauge and the constant idle actuator with air flow cleaner. This worked more but I still have the blip during engine warmup. Idles fine at start up, blips for a while, then stops bliping as engine nears running temperature. What should I do next?
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
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As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
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When you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
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My wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
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I have a 2.0 auto city golf. The wife claims when she's sitting at a light the temp gauge drops to nothing, it sounds like it stalled and starts to roll back and then comes back to life when she pumps the gas. Every time I drive it it's fine.
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After I fill my 6 cyl 2004 Hyundai Sonata (280,000 km), the engines starts, then stalls. I can only get it to work by keeping the accelerator pushed to ensure sufficient rpm's. If I remove my foot from the accelerator, the rpm's drop to zero.With the engine revving, I put the car in drive and 'lurch' away from the pump. After that, everything is fine. It starts up properly … until the next fill. My mechanic is mystified and I am frustrated.
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I recently bought a 2006 STX with the 4.6 engine. Occassionally, when stopping at a light, the engine will stall. I took it to the dealer where I bought it and he put it on the computer and found that once on a test drive the RPM's dropped to 490, but it did not stall. He said everything checked out fine and thought it might be a carbon build up, since the truck only has 27,000 miles on it and was driven only around town. He suggested a couple of tanks of higher octane fuel and a fuel additive to remove the carbon.
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
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