Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Windows Won't Stop Rolling Down
Mar 24, 2012
I have an 01 Passat (old body style) and I know that there is a function on the door that if you use the key to unlock the car you can roll down all the windows that way. The key lock on my door is broken though and has been since I go the car 2 years ago.
For some reason all the sudden now ever time I open my door all the windows roll down. I'm not sure how to stop it or turn off the system. Luckily it hasn't happened in the rain, yet, but I would like to fix it before that happens.
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I have a 99 B5 stock with 114,000 on it. On Saturday my wife and I went out for a ride, she had to get something form the trunk so I unlock the doors and she gets out when she gets back in the car I notice the trunk lid light is on and i tell her to close it she said she did so I get out and close it. I noticed when i went to close it the latch wouldn't engage. I turn the car off and try to use my key to lock the trunk, I noticed the alarm doesn't engage when I try to lock it. I then try to start up the car and it wont start.
I pop the hood everything looks good I try it again no luck after about twenty minutes of testing, I decide to disconnect the battery. The car starts right up but while im driving i notice the trunk lid light comes back on and my doors keep trying to lock, then my windows go down for no reason...What is going on, I have heard that some passats have a real bad electrical problem with time but what causes it and is this something Im going to have to bring to the stealership to get fixed.
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Want to figure out if the 2015 has this feature where you hold the key fob down and the windows roll down. Can't seem to figure out if this feature exists.
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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I am a new RCF owner. I have one small complaint - water on the side windows after rolling them down then up again. If I wash my car by hand or get a car wash or it rains, I can't roll my windows down and then back up without a crazy amount of water on them.
Of course when that water on the windows dries it ruins my otherwise clear car. And its not like I am rolling the window down right away. Its hours later or the next day at it still comes back up wet. Its basically to the point where I don't bother rolling my windows down because of the wetness.
I have checked to make sure the bottom drains on the door are clear. As an experiment I took my girlfriends Hyundai Elantra to the car wash and then rolled the window down and up...nothing, no water at all. I don't get it.
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I have had my '16 4 dr S for about a month now, and have had only one issue, well two if you count the fact that my LG G4 will not connect to AndroidAuto. Even when it is dry out and hasn't rained for days, both sides of my windows will be wet after rolling them down and back up. It is almost like the rubber seals act like sponges and coat the windows with water as the window passes through. It is not enough moisture to drip down the windows or cause a musty smell or anything, but it is aggravating.
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This is a 2013 Santa Fe Sport. This started as intermittent, but the windows for passenger side have stopped responding to the switches. I can hear the relay in each of the windows click when we hit the buttons but the motor doesn't engage. Sadly I couldn't reproduce before the 60k warranty went up and they won't cover it. They have said its the master control switch, but I don't believe that being that I can hear the individual relays engage on each of the windows when the buttons are pressed. They want $500 to do the master control switch.
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I just had my front passenger window replaced due to an attempted break in, and I noticed now that my window sounds very harsh rolling up and down versus my other three windows. The window goes up and down at the same speed as the other windows that wasn't touched, but now its just not as quiet as the others; which to me now is more of an annoying sound.
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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I've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
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My 4x4 only locks in when i lock it in and then go drive around, and i know its locked in when it gets hard to turn on the road. So i stop and play with it in 4x4 to see if it will go into 4 hi and it does but then after about 5-10 minutes it disengages again. I've checked the top portion of my vacuum lines, replaced my actuator on the front diff and I've made shore that my selonoids are working, and they are. I'm lost.
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I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
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I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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I have noticed an odd sound when coming to a stop. It sounds like a metal ball or two rolling forward when I brake then roll back and hit something when i come to a complete stop. At first i thought it was just something rolling around in the center console but I haven't found anything. What is under the center console/drivers seat that may have something that could roll like that?
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I have a 1983 Honda Accord (manual with nearly 200,000 miles) when rolling to a stop or at a stop rpms drop below 1000 and it stalls out. I can start it back up without hesitation.No hesitation at initial startup or after sitting short or long time, it idles while in park rpms about 1000.When I feel the engine about to stall while rolling to a stop or at stop, if I put my left foot on the brake pedal, slightly step on the gas pedal with my right foot it prevents the engine from stalling. At stop if I put in park, rpms raise and don’t need to give it gas.
I'm unable [& unqualified] to work on my car. Given I drive only about 1,000 mi year; my alternate form of transportation is a bus or kindness of friends, I’m on a limited income, cannot afford to buy/ spend more than 2,000 -- my question if 2-foId, 1. is it possible that something it is nothing major and worth repairing/replacing (ex. air control/idle air bypass valve, a dirty throttle body or even carburetor)?2. Or, as discussed with one mechanic, since the car is 33 years old, during or soon after repair other problems (dried out vacuum hoses or major) will follow. Plus, parts can be difficult if not impossible to replace as a I spoke to mechanic pointed out.Given the car’s age is it worth repairing?
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I have an 08 RAV4 that has an issue when turning left and right and sometimes when taking off from a rolling stop. It seems that the body and engine want to move but the tires do not. I have taken the vehicle to 4 mechanics including dealership and everyone says the transmission is fine, axles and joints are supposed to be fine as well as drive train. I currently have about 25000 miles left on a warranty and don't want to lose the use of the warranty.
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today I roll down my window for a smoke.. did not come back up.
Had some problems with the switch before here and there so I'm pretty sure its that.
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Gf's 01 B5 Wagon(tip) has the clunking noise only on accelerating from a stop,does not do it any other time,does it in tip mode as well,tie rod ends,rotors and front brakes were replaced about 2 months ago,could this be a ball joint/control arm issue,I read as much on this in the other threads when I searched,no noise on turning or braking,possible mount issue?
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About a week ago I started hearing this creaking sound from the front end when rolling slowly, in or out of gear, but not all the time. Today I heard it all through the stop and go traffic in NYC, and louder than ever (even my wife admitted that it existed!) but later, traffic eased up, and during and after about 40 mins. of 60 mph, the sound was gone, even when we re-entered town traffic. We parked briefly during the noisy period this morning, and I was able to reproduce the sound when pushing the front end down. Now, after the highway driving, no sound! Nothing else seems to be wrong. What the heck could this be? CV joint? Tie rods? control arms? The steering?
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Just read the comsumer report "Annual auto issue", it reminded me the hesitation issue with the 2.0T (... page 70: We found the Passat hesitates slightly on takeoff from a rolling start..."). Is it a common problem with the turbo engines? it could be deadly when you change lanes on a busy highway.
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